I bought this blade to install 320 square feet of laminate flooring. I bought nice 12mm laminate with the attached pad, so it was a nice thick laminate. I put this blade on my compound miter saw, and it sliced through the laminate like butter. There was no chipping, no burning, and the blade still seemed sharp even after we were done installing the floor. I saved it in case I want to use it again! I highly recommend this product.

I bought this blade set to make Dados and Rabbets for a couple of small projects I do around the house. Since my saw's arbor is a little shorter, but more importantly, part of the metal sawdust collection port is close to the blade, it can't handle typical Dado stacks. This blade set, due to it's unique design, gets in there and also fits within the stock choke plate! You have to wiggle the two blades as you install going one at a time, but since they mesh together on the arbor, it's rather easy.

NOTE: Both of these blades are easily twice as thick each as typical blades, so they're noticeably heavier. I was concerned the extra weight would cause issues with the motor or cutting in general, but nothing seems to be amiss. I do give the motor an extra couple of seconds to get up to speed before pushing through any material.

The two sizes this blade set cuts (1/4" and 3/8") are accurate and VERY clean. These are the perfect sizes to create box drawers from either 1/2" or 3/4" sheet goods, which is what I plan to in the near future, using either the "Quarter, Quarter, Quarter" method for 1/2" material, or "Half, Half, Half" for 3/4" material. Overall, I'm very pleased with this purchase.

The blade has worked great. I have made over 100 cuts with it so far and it doesn't seem to be getting dull. Not only that, the blade cuts through aluminium cleanly and smoothly like a hot knife through butter. I really couldn't be more satisfied with my purchase.

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

I have gotten about 50 cuts out of this blade so far. Most of them have been 45 degree cuts in 1x2x3/16" mild steel channel. It is now only starting to spark a bit, but still cutting straight lines.

I had never cut aluminum. After some research I decided for safety reasons it was best to purchase a product designed for the job. Right tool for the job. I cut channelled aluminum 2" X 8" (Bleacher Seat or Plank). I saved the first cut so I could compare to my last cut. I made 90 cuts. The blade held up very well for my purpose. You have to cut slightly slower than you would cut wood, Although, as I neared the final cut, it seemed in my mind that the cutting ability of the blade was getting oh so slightly slower, but that is to be expected. There was no noticeable difference in quality of the 90th cut from the 1st cut. I think the blade will cut plenty more with no problem. There were no lost teeth or blade damage. Probable because aluminum is the product cut here, it leaves a large amount of debris. Probably no more than wood really, but because it is metal, it must seem like more because it won't lay flat on the ground after the cuts. You will want to wear eye, ear and leg protection. I am pleased with this product

Can't say what the lifespan of this blade will be, but on our Grizzly 10" table saw this blade cut several 3/4" thick panels of extremely dense plastic being used for public restroom stall partitions. I don't know what type plastic this was, but the stuff is so heavy that it took two of my adult male construction crewmen to move 1 sheet. One man couldn't move one. VERY heavy and dense. This blade cut it like butter. I don't see how you can beat that for the very reasonable price of this blade.

I bought this blade because of the you tube “project farm” review (Best review channel). Understand only rated for ~1500rpm but installed on chop saw at 3300rpm and cut Aluminum, Raw Hide (Dog), PVC, and wood. Too much risk to cut anything harder but no tooth chips yet. Please take care, where leather wielding apron, face/neck shield, heavy jeans… a carbide tooth coming off at that speed can ‘hurt’ 🙂

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

I was very pleased to find this product being offered on AMAZON. I received the blades very quickly and at a great price. I was concerned about whether the blades would fit and be of good quality. I found out I had not needed to have worried about either account.

I bought these to use on my Mafell track saw when I was building my home and had a lot of richlite cladding and shelves to cut. That material is very hard on blades and after going through several Mafell blades I figured I could try these as they are much less expensive. They worked very well… durability was the same as Mafell. The kerf is a bit bigger which means I have to replace my rubber edge strip on my tracks when I go back to the Mafell blades. I haven’t tried these with wood so I can’t saw how clean they cut (Mafell blade leaves glass like finish). Anyway they are very good blades for the money.

Works great so far. Who needs a $300 Milwaukee metal cutting saw when I can just put a $30 blade on a ghetto saw? I should take this to work just for the lolz.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

This is only a short term review as this blade has not seen a lot of use. It is installed in my DeWalt metal cutting saw. Cuts on aluminum tubing, flat bar, and angle are fairly clean and easy, leaving only small bits of scale on the tubing ends. I applied lubricating wax to the blade prior to using it and during the cutting process. There appears to be no aluminum residue build up after doing this.

I mounted this on my recipricale saw and use it primarily for cutting 6061 aluminum extrusion. It works equally well on small 1X1" angle and also on larger 2X3" extrusion and cuts through it with ease. No lubricant/wax or other helper is needed on the cuts and the saw tracked just as cleanly as if it was cutting through wood What I like about this blade is the fact that it does not want to kick the part up or grab into the material so clampingon the part was only neceessary on one side. The surface finish of the cut was very similar to a semi finishing machining cut and required very minimal clean up of burrs, an added +. I have cut several hundred peices and there is no noticable depreciation or wear on the teeth and it works just as well as the first time I used it. Would recommend this for anyone needing to make quick work on aluminum cutting. Price wise this blade performed as well or better than my now retired Freud Diablo blade which cost me about $85 originally. Great value for the money and you won't find a comperable blade for less.

Good Product. Bought this to replace the original laser that came with my 10 inch Craftsman miter saw. It has been in use for several years now without any problems. Laser is hard to see in bright sunlight however i usually work in the shade so that really isn't an issue as it can be seen quite well. Works as advertised.

These Oshlun dado blades are the best that I've ever used. Having more chipper blades on the stacks make for a really nice smooth cut. I really recommend these blades.

We had purchased one of the Rage Saws, which are absolutely terrific in every way. However the replacement blades are expensive from Rage, and not easy to purchase locally. This Oshlun 10" Blade was deliberately designed to be compatible with the Rage Saws. Having a 1" Bore and Carbide Teeth, ground to provide a standard "triple chip type of cut", it is a perfect replacement for the Rage Steel Cutting Blade.

The blade cuts as well as any other quality brand blade, and at a far less cost.

I admit...I haven't used this yet. I bought it based on reviews from several woodworking friends and decided on this set rather than cheaper dado versions. I've been a woodworker for decades and used the old wobble dado version by Craftsman and wanted something that was easier to fine tune the width. This has it! The blades are plenty substantial, very heavy, with a variety of thinner spacers to fine tune the dado width. I'm looking forward to using this and can tell it's going to be perfect for my dado needs.

Never seen a saw with the primary purpose of cutting plastics, but as these become more and more common, I'm glad someone make a proper blade. Cuts well through Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly(Ethylene) and Poly(Formaldehyde) / Poly(Oxymethanal). As those are two of the most physically impressive thermoplastics, I'm sure it'll cut through everything else just fine. As long as you push the plastic through at a reasonable speed, you'll get a clean edge with no melt deformation.

Cuts through metal like butter! I installed this blade on my Evolution Rage2 saw and it works flawlessly. Having recently upgraded to the Rage2 from an abrasive saw (NEVER again) the difference is amazing. No abrasive/metal dust everywhere, you get small metal shavings, but they are much easier to clean up and next to no sparks. The cut is smooth, clean, and accurate. No dross to clean up like with the abrasive saw.

Be mindful though that you rate of cut and amount of downward pressure must be carefully monitored. You should apply steady, LIGHT pressure, and let the blade do it's work. If you push too hard/fast you'll kill the blade. I expect this blade to last quite a while before needing to be resharpened ($20 at local shop). HIGHLY recommended!!!

I have no idea why anyone would pay more than you would pay for this set. I had this exact set for years, it cuts very smooth bottom dados. I really like the full size chippers, and I’ve always been able to get the exact width that I need. I really don’t know why anyone would pay $100 more or $150 more just to cut smooth dados, I’m not thinking that the carbide tip blades in the $250 sets are going to last one minute longer than the carbide tips in this set. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I had to buy a new set, I did look around before purchasing this brand, and found no reason to buy anything different. Get it and you’ll be happy with it.

A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

I was looking for a bade to cut aluminum for a FIRST robotics team working out of my basement. My initial search through a well known industrial supplier showed blades like this starting at $250. That was pretty much a non-starter. I found this one on Amazon and read the reviews and decided to give it a try. It cuts cleanly, quietly, and quickly. We have been cutting parts for several weeks now and the blade shows no signs of dulling. It also works great on PVC pipe and wood (we used that for training purposes. I have done a lot of shop work over the years and I can say this is an excellent blade. I highly recommend this to anyone who is planning to cut aluminum on conventional shop equipment. I used this blade on a table saw.

If you're looking for the right blade to cut 8020 aluminium t slot, you can't go wrong with this blade. That's what I bought it for, and it has worked perfectly on my table saw. Just be sure to use some blade butter or some sort of wax or lubricant, and you'll get nice clean burr free cuts. I've used it on the 15 series 1515 and 1530 regular, lite, and ultra-lite profiles without issue.

I love this blade. I installed it in my cabinet saw and so far I've cut hardwood, plywood, and plexiglass without any issues. The surface that is left is super smooth - feels as if it were sanded by a 300+ grit sandpaper!
I can't comment on the longevity of the blade sharpness but after owning it for couple of months it's held up very well.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

I can not see any difference between my Festool blade and that one. Smooth cut with nice glossy feel to it.

There are a few things out there that are better options than Festool Replacement ones, all of which come at a better value.

Examples include t
1) Splinter Guard tape from Makita for the tracks which are way cheaper and better.
2) Bosh 35mm hose for 30$ ish compared with the 36mm from Festool at ridiculous price.
3) MFT3 MDF top that you can do yourself from any 3/4 MDF sheet.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

This blade is incredible. I just finished cutting plywood parts for two large roll around cabinets and the blade made laser smooth cuts. Just remember that when cutting expensive veneered plywood to raise your blade to its highest setting. This trick provides the least amount of tear out. I know this goes against what many of us were taught about safety and it does expose more blade. But if you are thoughtful and keep your hands in the clear the cutting result will be worth the extra effort. If your not comfortable raising the blade use tape on your cut line. Either way, this blade is worth the price and makes clean cuts.

I never post reviews. Haven't even had this blade 24 hours, but this thing is awesome. I used this on a Dewalt 20v circular saw, the regular one, not the metal cutting saw. I wasn't sure if my little battery powered saw would cut what I was wanting to cut, and I saw no reviews using this blade on a regular 20v circular saw. I cut a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" steel lengthwise. I didn't try to go super fast, but I was putting pretty good pressure. I was cutting at about 1" per 15 seconds, so it took a while to go the full 8'. I cut 2 feet at a time with 5 minute breaks in between. used 2 full 5ah batteries, plus needed a third battery to do the last 3 inches. I tacked a piece of angle to my plate to ensure a straight cut. The cut quality is perfect, way better than what my plasma would have done, or even a shear for that matter. Took a little while, took some planning on how and what to use to hold it in place during the cut, but I couldn't tell any difference in cut speed near the end at all. Still looks sharp and ready to cut more plates of steel. As long as you use your head, this blade will do wonders. I would bet you could even cut 1/2" plate with no problems, just using lots of batteries. I highly recommend this blade.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

I bought this blade not knowing what to expect, as I have never cut metal with this type of blade. I only needed to make about 50 cuts in extruded aluminum I-beam, so if it could complete that job, I would be happy. So far it has performed flawlessly. I even used it to cut some 1/2" EMT, though not recommended, it did the job. I may have shortened its useful life, but I cannot see how the quality of cut has been affected. I do recommend two things: First, use a wax cutting lube, and apply it every 5 or so cuts. Secondly, go nice and slow. For the price, I definitely recommend this blade.

This is an amazing saw blade for the price! I would suggest this blade to anyone with a cold cut saw. I bought one of these for a project to see how it would do on my Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw and it did better than the blade that came with the saw. I cut through 60ft. of 1/4 inch thick steel with no problem and the blade still had plenty of life in it. I only had to slow down because the saw itself got to hot to hold.
I bought 3 more of these blades after the first one, if you have a cold cut saw that uses an 8inch blade this is the blade to get. The price is great and the quality is fantastic.
This is defiantly a great buy not just for the money but for the quality.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

Great blade for the price. They fit my Fein, dewalt perfectly. Very happy and will purchase them again.

It's a good value. Of course it's made in China. Be sure to order a lube stick to use with it. If you are cutting thinner material like angle or box tubing, get the 120 Tooth. If you are cutting heavier bar stock, large rounds, get the 80 tooth. I ran the 120 tooth on some 3"x4" 7075 bar stock and it wanted to plug up even with plenty of lube.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.
Remember, slow and steady.

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

Make sure you have the right saw for this type of blade. The blade is rated for max 1800rpm. This is not a standard miter saw blade!

But if you have the right saw (in my case, I used an Evolution Powertools Evo380 metal cutting non-abrasive chop saw) you're wanting to cut some 304-316 stainless for a project or product you're developing or building, have at it! It's been an excellent blade for my use case.

Picture shows cut 1/16" 316 (that's aerospace grade, harder than 304!) stainless steel being handled by bare hands immediately after cutting. Fun!

I have been using these blades for several years as an economical alternative to Festool branded blades and I believe they may in fact be the same blade! Performance wise there is no difference at all. Would 100% recommend them to all serious woodworkers and DIY as well.

Since there aren't many reviews on this blade I figured I'd give it a rating. I bought this to attach to a husqvarna 165rx clearing saw. Having previously used another carbide tipped blade (husqvarna Christmas tree attachment) and after wearing that blade out I was in search of another as rebuilding the blade alone would cost 1.5x the cost of this blade. Sharpen style blades just don't cut it so I figured I'd give this blade a try for what it costs.

I am throughly happy with this blade purchase as it mets my expectations with flying colors. I am mostly using this blade for pasture brush control (hedge, cedar, and locust). Cuts trees like a hot knife easily cutting down a 6" tree, can cut bigger with a back cut but trees get fairly tall with that diameter and could potentially fall towards you without a way to stop it due to having to hold saw. I have not hit any rocks or wire with it yet so I can't tell you how it would hold up to that but I feel like it would. If I happen to hit a rock or wire I'll report back with details if teeth fall off. Eventually I know the blade will get dull, hopefully I will cut enough trees coupled with not having to sharpen it to justify the cost and order another.

There is one thing that I am disappointed with is the blade is manufactured in China. I didn't rate it negatively for this because I feel that if it was a USA made blade it would probably be in the $80 -$100 range.

I would highly recommend this blade for a similar situation as mine. If by rare chance you have a clearing saw with a Christmas tree attachment (used for husqvarna clearing saws and allows use of 12" blade, normally only accepts 10" without attachment) that you want a blade for.

I've just installed it on my DeWalt DWS 782, so I can't speak to longevity. However, it works and the laser line is right on the money. Bonus points for including extra batteries. Also, the hardest part of installing it was the process I would normally have to follow for changing the blade on my saw. Lastly, make sure you tighten the bolt on the blade properly. I thought I tightened it enough without ham handing it, but once the blade brake turned on the blade broke most and kept spinning.

I've tried various brands of steel cutting blades over the years and feel like this is middle of the pack. It's way better than some out there in that the resulting edge is very clean with no burrs and isn't overly sharp. I made a pancake griddle out of 1/4" plate and didn't even have to sand the cut edge. It cuts 1/4" just fine but not quite as quickly as another brand I used before. But at half the price, I will buy these every time.

Great price and seem to last as long as the $8 ea ones from Home Depot and Lowes. Using these on a Porter Cable recip tool.

I bought this blade because of the you tube “project farm” review (Best review channel). Understand only rated for ~1500rpm but installed on chop saw at 3300rpm and cut Aluminum, Raw Hide (Dog), PVC, and wood. Too much risk to cut anything harder but no tooth chips yet. Please take care, where leather wielding apron, face/neck shield, heavy jeans… a carbide tooth coming off at that speed can ‘hurt’ 🙂

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

Oshlun makes the best saw blades I’ve ever used!!! I use this 60 tooth on my miter saw and get super clean cuts in all kinds of wood! I have an Oshlun 50 tooth blade in my table saw for general cutting work and it handles everything just fine!! Even hen I cut plywood I don’t get much chip out.

Was looking for a replacement blade about a year ago when my original Makita beam was blade started getting dull. Found the Oshlun blade on Amazon and resisted buying it at first due to the low price. I just ordered my second one after using the first one 6 days a week for 10 months. We cut large Western Red Cedar, cypress, fir and spruce beams all day long with this blade (both rips and cross cuts). This blade has never warped under heating (and we really heat this thing up some days). Good blade at any price.

I am using this blade on my chop saw to cut 1" biscuits out of hickory logs (I use them in my BBQ pit). This is an aggressive blade and it cuts through the hickory like it's butter. This is NOT the recommended use for the blade but it is the perfect solution for me. I can see how this blade would work well in a rescue operation - something it's actually designed to be used for.

One of the best blades I've owned over the last 30 years.

I bought this blade in May of 2014, bolted it up to a 10" Dewalt crosscut saw and started cutting 3 x 5 aluminum extrusion and several other types of aluminum. I've also cut PVC, ABS, and soft woods with it. The only thing I ever do to it is run a bit of beeswax over the teeth and sides once every month or two.

3-1/2 years later, and that same blade is still bolted up and cutting like the day I bought it.... minus all of the pretty red paint of course. 🙂

I bought this blade as a replacement for my Evolution Tools Fury 3 saw. All I can saw is WOW! This blade cuts 10 times better than the blade that ships with the saw. It cuts faster, cleaner, and far smoother. It's better balanced than the original as well. I will never buy another blade from Evolution Power Tools as long as Olshun makes this blade. Buy one and you'll understand. It's easily worth 3x what it sells for.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

Up to this point, I have only used friction and abrasive blades to cut steel. I was skeptical of a blade that looks just like your standard wood blade would work well and could last. But I have been very happy with the speed and smoothness of the cuts, and so far, the blade seems to have remained quite sharp. I've only cut about four 1/2" dia. bolts and a dozen or so 1/2" rebar, so it's still a little early to tell how long it will remain sharp. But it has saved me a lot of time and has kept the metal much cooler than with other blade types. I'm very happy with it so far.

Worked perfect for cutting a corian countertop to remove a dual bowl sink and install a stainless steel one. Worked well bht I could tell by the end of the cut it was tired. Great blade for the purpose and it worked well with the harbor freight Bauer brand 4.5 circular saw to do the job. For Corian it worked perfectly

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

I bought this blade with the intent of using it when I refinish my hardwood floors. I figured a $20 blade would be a lot easier to swallow if I hit something hard while cutting out some of the old damaged boards.

I did some test cuts on 3/4" birch plywood scraps. The cuts were clean and sharp. To be honest, I'm not sure that the festool blade could have done any better. Maybe the Festool blade would outperform this blade on other materials but for sheet goods I would consider them equal.

I'll be ordering a couple more blades. At this price I would be crazy if I didn't.

I was extremely skeptical about using my Festool track saw to cut aluminum sheets. I was afraid aluminum would somehow wreck the saw and the track. I was wrong it works great. Perfectly straight cuts with very little burring. It did no damage to my saw or track, not even to the sacrificial nylon strip on the track. I used this blade to cut up two 4X10 sheets of .125" aluminum without a problem. I did not notice a decrease in performance at any point and the blade still appears to be razor sharp. Although I cannot compare it directly to Festool's version my opinion is that it would probably hold hold up just as well while at a fraction of the price.

I bought these blades for my TS55. They were $15 each (now $48) and still WAY cheaper then festool blades. I have not noticed any difference in the quality of the cuts. I will buy more if the price comes down again... but for now I have a mini stockpile in the garage.

Great blade regardless of it's low price. For several years I have used these in the production cutting of large aluminum extrusions.
On a 12" combination sliding saw, and using " Relton A9" cutting oil, I make steady slow cuts never overheating the material.
Take care of this blade it will cut cleanly and last as long as blades a 4x the money.

This blade is a great bang for the buck. It’s well made, has thick C-4 micrograin carbide, expansion slots with copper silencer plugs, and a stiff precision steel body. It’s very capable of glue ready edges right off the saw, and does a good job in many materials…it does everything a dependable general purpose blade should do. […] It clearly outperformed my $60 40T CMT 213.040.10. Hard to go wrong at the price.

This type of laser is the best thing you can add to your miter saw if you want some type of aid to show where the blade on the saw will cut. People argue that the shadow line devices are the best- I have both and think this laser is superior. This device puts a line on the material exactly where the blade will cut on the left side of the blade- where 99% of your cuts are made. The line is bright and super sharp- it diminishes in sunlight but you can see it. The shadow line is good, but for it to be accurate you have to bring the blade down to the material. If you don’t, the line is wider than the cut. Also, in sunlight you can’t use it. I like this tool so much more I added it to a saw with the shadow line. Buy it, put it on, use it! It’s as easy as that.

Good fit. Initial cuts worked well. I made 80+ cuts through that were 1-7/8" deep in 1" thick alum flatbar.
About 2/3s of the way through the blade started to struggle, but we were able to complete the project. Would probably recommend a cutting lubricant next time.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

Finally, a dial caliper for the masses of woodworkers out there who care for accuracy and quality. This dial caliper is not only accurate to 1/64th of an inch, but it is also a joy to use for its simplicity and very legible dial. I highly recommend its use in any woodshop. Bravo, a fine piece of machinery. I give it five nails out of five.

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

Ok, I received this blade about a week ago and decided to replace the 60T stock blade on my Kapex for a large built in job. This required me to cross cut a LOT of 3/4 and 1/4 oak plywood. This stuff can be made a mess pretty easily with a crappy blade. The 80T did a wonderful job on the ply and solid materials. Almost no tear out/splintering on the ply and the cuts on the solid stock where beautiful. This blade cuts as well as my $150 Tenyru. Time will tell how well/long it stays sharp. Will post more info in a few weeks.

UPDATE.....been using the blade for a couple of weeks. Still sharp. The thing that sets this blade apart, and all good blades, is the ability to cut small amounts from small mouldings and leave them laying on the table rather than sending them off like a missle. This blade has not thrown anything yet! Will be purchasing another one as a back up.

I used this blade to cut 1/4" diamond plate. I had about eighty feet in cuts to make. At first the blade cut the metal like butter and the finish edge on the cut was smooth. The finish edge began to deteriorate with use and after cutting about sixty feet of material the cuts began to become very difficult. I tried cleaning off a buildup of aluminum on the teeth but this didn't help and I considered the blade to be worn out. I then lubricated my cuts with cutting oil and I was amazed. The blade began to cut better than my very first dry cut and the finish edge was very smooth. I wish I had lubricated all of my cuts. It would have extended the life of the blade considerably. Be careful and use eye protection because aluminum chips will be flying. I used goggles to ensure that a chip didn't get up behind my safety glasses.

I couldn't be happier with this blade. It has allowed me to cut very small slivers of Avonite on my table saw. Before I had this blade if I tried to cut thin sliver the material would break ruining my piece. Silky smooth cutting…

I bought this only intending to cut sheet metal, which it does wonderfully well on my Dewalt track saw. I needed to cut a piece of 1/4" plate and was preparing to use my plasma cutter, but thought I'd give the track saw with Oshlun metal cutting blade a try. It worked! Had a go slow, but gave a nice clean cut, with a much better finish than what I'd get from the plasma cutter.

I recently purchased a Milwaukee 5 1/2" cordless metal cutting saw. It came with a 5 3/8" Milwaukee blade that sells for $39.99. This blade has actually outlasted the Milwaukee blade that came with the saw and so far has shown no real signs of wear yet. Very satisfied with this purchase although I was able to purchase the saw kit elsewhere for much less.

Only blades that fit my 5 3/8” fuel steel cutting circular saw from Milwaukee.

I Cut through about 160 1/2” steel rods and a bunch more extruded aluminum even though I shoulda used a non ferrous blade but so impressed I bought all of their brand blades for aluminum, steel and even wood since they’re the only ones that fit my saw; I have the Milwaukee Fuel Metal Cutting Circular Saw, I can only fit 5.5” blades with a 20mm arbor (most blades are 6”+ and only have a 10 mm arbor).

Very nicely machined. It moves and holds its position very nicely. Easy to read dial; easy to read numbers. The fractional numbering on the outside of the dial, which makes the fractions easier to see. The decimal scale on the inside of dial is more natural to look at and the smaller size is not a problem to read. Other more expensive fractional calipers I have seen are much harder to read. Very nice for the price.

I had a project that needed a blade that was not only one that would fit my compound miter saw but also one that would be designed for cutting aluminum. I went on line and googled my need and was pleased to find the Oshlun blade offered at a reasonable price. I read a few of the reviews that were on line relating to others that had purchased their blades and was convinced that I should do that too. I placed an order for the 8" 60 tooth blade designed for cutting aluminum and was pleasantly surprised how quickly I received it. I have used the new blade for cutting aluminum rails & other parts of the outside railing system that I am working on & the blade cuts all the aluminum parts perfectly. I am very happy that I made the purchase that I did. With out the new Oshlun blade I could not do the job that I have done.

Listen up guys. I was looking for a blade that would cut aluminum profiles and work on a Dewalt chop saw running at 2800RPM so I emailed the manufacturer and got an immediate positive reply about this blade. LOOK NO FURTHER. This blade cuts aluminium clean and fast. No Burrs.
Buy this with your eyes closed but make sure they are open when using it.

After ruining countless jigsaw blades cutting aluminum planks for a large porch replacement project, I decided to investigate whether a circular saw approach would be faster and provider cleaner cuts. The porch planks were aluminum extrusions that were one inch thick and 6.5 inches wide. I used this Oshlun blade in a cordless lithium based circular saw from Porter Cable. It worked wonderfully, but must warn the user to wear eye and ear protection. The project moved along at least ten times faster than it would have otherwise.

Our 1 non-ferrous blade cut the 1" and 3/4" thick aluminum shown in the pictures and finished very strong. Excellent cut quality and durability. Yet to sharpen it.

I've owned the 210 x 52 and 210 x 36 tooth (as well as the 72 tooth non-ferrous) blades since 2016 and find them to be excellent blades for the DIY builder. I work with all sorts of materials, from Miratech, to fir and pine, to oak, to Ipe (hard stuff that), to chocolate Bamboo (harder stuff still), to 1" thick aluminum (with the non-ferrous blade).

I just keep the 52 tooth on my TS75 for most work. Though I'm not doing day in day out production work, I have yet to sharpen it and find that it still makes smooth clean cuts.

Purchased to use in Wood! Why? The 1" bore.

To explain, we have a 12" "Original Saw Company" Radial arm saw in the shop. The 12" blades we have tend to be deafeningly loud, the outer rim speed is so high.
To combat this, we use 10" blades thus reducing the outer rim speed a good deal. This was easy to do with my old Delta R.A.S. that had the arbor more common in 10" blades ( 5/8" ) .
Since upgrading to the "Original" with the 1" Arbor (proper for 12" blades) I have had a very hard time finding any non custom made 10" blades with 1" arbor,.. until this one.
It makes very clean cross cuts in pine and hard woods. No tear out, super smooth.

And it is Soooooo quiet in the big R.A.S. we can no longer hear it over the dust collection.

Much nicer cut on plywood than the factory blade. Kerf size seems to be exactly the same so the lasers do not need adjustment between this and the Festool blade. I just got it so time will tell about longevity but as far as I can see at this point, paying more than double for the Festool 80t doesn’t seem to be a wise choice.

The blades can cut either a 1/4" or a 3/8" dado slot depending on the saw blade orientation with each other. There is not indication on the cut where the blades come together, and the top of the cut is absolutely flat. They outperform by regular multi-blade dado set by far. However, they only cut the two sizes, so they are not going to be your go-to blades for all your dado needs. OUCH!! Hint: Wear gloves when handling these blades. They have SHARP edges just EVERYWHERE! I got the blood off of them before they started to rust and I WILL wear Kevlar shop gloves next time I install them on my saw!

For the money this is a great saw blade. The 5 stars only applies to this price range since there are probably better blades for more money - but I'm not sure my saw would show any difference. I would definitely buy another one of these. My Grizzly track saw with this blade cuts as good (or even better) than my DeWalt table saw with a (Home Depot) Freud blade. BTW, I made a zero clearance device for my track saw so I get zero tear out on either side of the cut. I can't rate the blade for that since I never get any tear out with any blade.

I was extremely skeptical about using my Festool track saw to cut aluminum sheets. I was afraid aluminum would somehow wreck the saw and the track. I was wrong it works great. Perfectly straight cuts with very little burring. It did no damage to my saw or track, not even to the sacrificial nylon strip on the track. I used this blade to cut up two 4X10 sheets of .125" aluminum without a problem. I did not notice a decrease in performance at any point and the blade still appears to be razor sharp. Although I cannot compare it directly to Festool's version my opinion is that it would probably hold hold up just as well while at a fraction of the price.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

I put this on a Dewalt chop saw, it cuts aluminum like it's butter. Uses no effort to cut just the weight of the blade. I sprayed multipurpose lube on the blade while cutting to try to prolong the life of the blade.

Great price and good product, As a contractor these do not last long. Everyday usage cutting nails, copper, gyroc and wood. But the blades do the job needed.

I have found this dado blade to be excellent. The price was great, ease of use and setting up is far superior to the HF dado blade I returned after one of the shims jammed on the arbor of my Delta uni-saw and damaged the arbor threads on the 2nd use. That cost me $150.00 to for the purchase of a replacement arbor! Many customers complain that the storage box it comes with is not suitable. It is just a cardboard box. When mine arrived the box was broken on three sides. However the dado blades are very well packaged in foam and arrived with no damage. I simply made my own storage box from 1/2" plywood and utilized the foam packaging to safely store the dado blade.

This is an amazing saw blade for the price! I would suggest this blade to anyone with a cold cut saw. I bought one of these for a project to see how it would do on my Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw and it did better than the blade that came with the saw. I cut through 60ft. of 1/4 inch thick steel with no problem and the blade still had plenty of life in it. I only had to slow down because the saw itself got to hot to hold.
I bought 3 more of these blades after the first one, if you have a cold cut saw that uses an 8inch blade this is the blade to get. The price is great and the quality is fantastic.
This is defiantly a great buy not just for the money but for the quality.

Have done a lot of wood working projects over the years. Have done carpentry on houses. Have done fiberglass work for boats. This was my first foray into Aluminum/Metal cutting. Purchased a 16' X 16' Mechanical Pergola kit for my home and needed to trim the beams, louvers, posts for the install. Purchased a 12" Compound Miter saw from Northern tool and upgraded the blade to this 120tooth metal cutting blade and OMG it was good! Cut 1000lbs of aluminum and it was cutting just as good on the last cut as the first cut. Well worth the money for the quality of the cutting. Beware though cutting metal is nothing like cutting wood! Clamp everything and be sure to keep the items you R cutting firm otherwise you'll get into trouble. I quickly learned as several items kicked and I broke a 2 teeth from this blade but for the rest of the project it kept cutting like they were not even missing.

I already owned an inexpensive digital caliper but if I leave thee button battery in it when not in use the battery discharges over time. Also the return to zero does drift slightly during use. When I found I needed a fractional caliper I decided to try a dial type.

I bought the Oshlum Dial Caliper over 2 years ago from Amazon for about $31; but I waited to use it on several projects to determine how good it was for my need and how well it held up before I reviewed it. I use it for DIY projects so I did not want to spend the price for a professional grade tool.That considered I found the build quality to be very good and it returned to zero every time. The action was very smooth and was as accurate as I could determine against an extrapolation caliper I know is accurate to .0005 inch. The dial is large enough to easily view and displays both fractional measures on the outside of a drawn ring and decimal measures on inside of the ring. I did not abuse it but it did hit a cement floor more than once and has not shown any damage. I found it excellent for my needs so it deserves the 5 stars.

I got this to cut damaged engineering wood flooring. The flooring is over concrete so I didn't want to chance the expensive Festool blade. So glad I made the purchase, the cuts were just about perfect. After I was done, I was able to use this to break down plywood sheets. Not as good as the Festool blade, but I can buy 3 of these for the same price.

I've had a Festool track saw since around 2004. It's such a great tool that continues to work like new despite the fact that I don't baby it. Given the build quality of the saw, I have little doubt that the festool blades are premium quality and probably stay sharp longer than this cheaper blade. But so far the Oshlun is performing comparably, so no regrets or reservations about having it as a backup when I send the festool blades for sharpening.

We buy these every time we go through them which owning a construction business is at least 4 times a year.

This is an excellent dado set that produces a true flat bottom dado. The number of chipper blades and shims enable very precise measurements. They are as good as dado sets costing much more.

This blade does exactly what it says it will do. It cuts a nice straight cut thru aluminum like butter. No kickback at all. One thing it does that's a negative is the chips it creates. They're little flakes that are hard to clean up. I've swept them up even used the shop vac and I still keep finding them. This is not the fault of the blade or saw. This is just how it works but it is something to make note of.

This blade makes very very smooth cuts in hardwood, softwood, and plywood, using my Harbor Freight/Chicago Electric 10" compound sliding miter saw. This saw is a bit underpowered compared to most, at only 11A. There's just a very tiny bit of splintering on the bottom and back edges, but no chipping at all. The cuts are as smooth as if sanded, as smooth as S4S finished lumber. The blade definitely runs quieter than the blade which came with the saw. And, despite having 20 more teeth, it cuts through thick material better and faster than the stock blade did, especially 4x4s.

It was extremely difficult to find a reasonably priced blade with the negative hook appropriate to a sliding compound miter saw, and they are rare at any price. I really didn't want to spend over $50, being as this is only a $100 saw! I would have preferred to spend only $25-30, but negative hooks could not be found in that range. I also went with this blade because of the full width kerf, which supposedly helps prevent blade deflection, especially on a SCMS. Some say a thin kerf makes better use of a lower powered saw, but the thick doesn't seem to be a problem for my use. Most of the blades made for SCMS, ie negative hook, are thin kerf.

I highly recommend this blade! I cut a fair amount of plywood, so the extra money seemed justified, and as I said, I could not find a negative hook blade for any less. I just wish I could get it for as little money as the Oshlun positive hook 10" blades! I'd happily settle for 60-tooth blade if it were $20 less.

Excellent value, quality dado set. This has a good complement of chippers and shims to make nearly any width groove you want. The chippers cut smoothly with little to no vibration. The top-bevel teeth on the scoring blades (outer) do make a slightly deeper corner cut as described and as is the norm for this style dado. This dado set has much less tendency for chip-out compared to a router bit, and much improved resistance to burning compared to a router bit.

Oshlun Customer service is excellent. I received one shim with a slight manufacturing defect. Oshlun customer service provided a complete replacement shim set promptly upon identifying the problem to them.
Be aware that the shim set is manufactured to a tight tolerance fit to the arbor, as are the cutting blades. This can make removal of the shims and blades a little slow, but you are assured of good centering of the blades and shims on the arbor. I don't regard this as a defect.

I am very pleased with this dado set and recommend it. I also have an 8-inch Oshlun box joint saw set that has also pleased me.

Amazon Prime delivered very promptly and delivered pricing was excellent.

When I initially purchased this blade I wasn't expecting for it to work as well and last as long as it did given the price. We used it to cut a bunch of 3/16" sheet steel and some stainless steel perforated sheet. It's a bit dulled after this project but still has all it's teeth intact and I feel I got good value and service out of it given the price in comparison to some "big name brands".

I have never used a saw blade designed specifically for plastic before so I wasn't sure what to expect but this blade goes through plexiglass like butter. It cuts 1/8" and 1/4" thick sheets leaving a decent edge ready for 220-400 grit sanding. No nicks, cracks, chipping or melting. If you need to cut plastic this blade will do the job.

My miter saw is one of my favorite saws. It is so versatile. One thing that I don’t like about it though is it doesn’t have an LED light like some of the newer models do. I tried to find one that works with my saw but there are none. I was watching a woodworking video and the guy doing the video had one of these. So , I decided to buy one.

When I received the package it included the laser guide and three small watch type batteries. When I opened the back of the guide to install the batteries I was pleasantly surprised that batteries were already installed. So the three batteries are extra batteries. That was a nice touch by the manufacturer.

Connect to my saw was very simple. As the blade sounds the laser guide automatically turns on and emits a laser that creates a line on what you are cutting. The cut line matched up perfectly with the laser. One thing I knew ahead of time but not everyone might know before using one of these laser guides is that the saw blade needs to be spinning in order for the guide to work. An LED light always shines and casts a shadow line on the object you are cutting whether the blade is spinning or not. But for this laser guide you need to engage the blade and have it spinning in order for the laser to create a cut line. You can keep the blade high enough and safely out of the way of any adjustments you may need to make to your piece being cut. I usually spin, stop the blade, adjust, spin the blade again and repeat the process if necessary until its is exactly where yo want it to be. I know my saw well enough that I usually put the piece of wood down in the right spot or close to it most of the time and just need to spin the blade once to make some minor adjustments.

I don’t have the money yet to buy a fancier saw with an LED light so until that happens I’m gong to keep using this laser guide as it works well.