Best blade I have purchased in a long time. Tried a blade made by a different seller on Amazon. Said it was for alum but just loaded up. This blade goes through like butter....will buy again but don't think I can wear this out!

Ok, I received this blade about a week ago and decided to replace the 60T stock blade on my Kapex for a large built in job. This required me to cross cut a LOT of 3/4 and 1/4 oak plywood. This stuff can be made a mess pretty easily with a crappy blade. The 80T did a wonderful job on the ply and solid materials. Almost no tear out/splintering on the ply and the cuts on the solid stock where beautiful. This blade cuts as well as my $150 Tenyru. Time will tell how well/long it stays sharp. Will post more info in a few weeks.

UPDATE.....been using the blade for a couple of weeks. Still sharp. The thing that sets this blade apart, and all good blades, is the ability to cut small amounts from small mouldings and leave them laying on the table rather than sending them off like a missle. This blade has not thrown anything yet! Will be purchasing another one as a back up.

I purchased this blade to cut some 1/8" thick aluminum angle stock with my 8.5" Hitachi sliding miter saw. The cuts were extremely clean, with essentially no burrs. After 20+ cuts (which obviously isn't much!) the blade is essentially new and cutting the same as when first installed.

I recently purchased a Milwaukee 5 1/2" cordless metal cutting saw. It came with a 5 3/8" Milwaukee blade that sells for $39.99. This blade has actually outlasted the Milwaukee blade that came with the saw and so far has shown no real signs of wear yet. Very satisfied with this purchase although I was able to purchase the saw kit elsewhere for much less.

I have the Makita XSC04Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 5-7/8" Metal Cutting Saw. This 5 3/8 blade's cut-depth is more than adequate for my needs. I've been doing 90 and 45-degree cuts (not bevels) through 3 x 3 x 3/8 inch angle iron. So far, about 5 ft of cuts, and the blade is still working fine. This compares very well with the Makita blade that came with my saw - for half the price. I think this Oshlun blade cuts a little faster than the Makita. Definitely recommend.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

Have done a lot of wood working projects over the years. Have done carpentry on houses. Have done fiberglass work for boats. This was my first foray into Aluminum/Metal cutting. Purchased a 16' X 16' Mechanical Pergola kit for my home and needed to trim the beams, louvers, posts for the install. Purchased a 12" Compound Miter saw from Northern tool and upgraded the blade to this 120tooth metal cutting blade and OMG it was good! Cut 1000lbs of aluminum and it was cutting just as good on the last cut as the first cut. Well worth the money for the quality of the cutting. Beware though cutting metal is nothing like cutting wood! Clamp everything and be sure to keep the items you R cutting firm otherwise you'll get into trouble. I quickly learned as several items kicked and I broke a 2 teeth from this blade but for the rest of the project it kept cutting like they were not even missing.

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

Our 1 non-ferrous blade cut the 1" and 3/4" thick aluminum shown in the pictures and finished very strong. Excellent cut quality and durability. Yet to sharpen it.

I've owned the 210 x 52 and 210 x 36 tooth (as well as the 72 tooth non-ferrous) blades since 2016 and find them to be excellent blades for the DIY builder. I work with all sorts of materials, from Miratech, to fir and pine, to oak, to Ipe (hard stuff that), to chocolate Bamboo (harder stuff still), to 1" thick aluminum (with the non-ferrous blade).

I just keep the 52 tooth on my TS75 for most work. Though I'm not doing day in day out production work, I have yet to sharpen it and find that it still makes smooth clean cuts.

Just received this blade yesterday, and I put it to work cutting 45 deg angles to make Aluminum Window Screen frames. This blade is sturdy and strong, no wobbling on my cheap Delta Miter saw, and it cut through the aluminum frame like cutting through cheese. I did use a little bit of lub, i.e. WD-40, as the directions on the carton stated, but I do not think that I needed to do so. Prior to purchasing this blade, I had used the abrasive style blade to cut through the aluminum frame and the cut quality was a disaster, and not the quality that I will install on the front of my house. So I looked up the various blades that were available for cutting aluminum, and I found this one with great reviews. I went ahead and purchased it to try it out. Great value and great performance. Although there is another Oshlun blade available to cut aluminum with 60 teeth, but I opted to buy the 100 teeth blade which makes it much easier to cut through aluminum, and the blade will last a lot longer. I am glad I bought it.

I put this on a Dewalt chop saw, it cuts aluminum like it's butter. Uses no effort to cut just the weight of the blade. I sprayed multipurpose lube on the blade while cutting to try to prolong the life of the blade.

I was looking for a bade to cut aluminum for a FIRST robotics team working out of my basement. My initial search through a well known industrial supplier showed blades like this starting at $250. That was pretty much a non-starter. I found this one on Amazon and read the reviews and decided to give it a try. It cuts cleanly, quietly, and quickly. We have been cutting parts for several weeks now and the blade shows no signs of dulling. It also works great on PVC pipe and wood (we used that for training purposes. I have done a lot of shop work over the years and I can say this is an excellent blade. I highly recommend this to anyone who is planning to cut aluminum on conventional shop equipment. I used this blade on a table saw.

I'm just a hobbyist woodworker, but I prefer quality tools - especially if they aren't too expensive. This dado set fits that description perfectly. Smooth, clean, flat bottom dados with no tear out. My first project with this set was in red oak, and I don't know how the set could have performed any better. Years ago, I bought an adjustable dado set - two blades mounted on a center hub that would let you tilt the blades in or out to change the width of you dado. Total junk. Literally could not make a flat bottom due to the design. Don't know if that type of dado set is still made, but if you see one, avoid it at all costs. I selected this Oshlun set because I thought the full blade multi-tooth chippers and the high tooth count on the outside blades would give a cleaner cut than the sets with fewer teeth and wing chippers with only two teeth. Don't know if that's true, but I am completely happy with the results I got with this Oshlun set. No regrets spending the money at all. The only negative is the advertised storage / carry case is simply a cardboard box with foam cutouts. Still a 5 star product.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

We had purchased one of the Rage Saws, which are absolutely terrific in every way. However the replacement blades are expensive from Rage, and not easy to purchase locally. This Oshlun 10" Blade was deliberately designed to be compatible with the Rage Saws. Having a 1" Bore and Carbide Teeth, ground to provide a standard "triple chip type of cut", it is a perfect replacement for the Rage Steel Cutting Blade.

The blade cuts as well as any other quality brand blade, and at a far less cost.

This review is for the Oshlun 10" 80 tooth fine finishing blade.

I've been purchasing Oshlun blades for the past year or two without complaint so far. This blade cuts nicely when your saw is properly tuned. Another reviewer indicates that they got blade markings, where that would ultimately be a function of a saw not correctly tuned. The runout on this blade isn't bad with a maximum runout of 0.006" and an average of 0.003" which provides glue ready cuts. Ideal blade runout is 0.005" or less.

The alternating top bevel grind on the teeth works excellent with natural woods and veneered plywood. The teeth are very sharp and the blade arrived with very little machine oil present, packed in a lightly padded cardboard retail package. You should consider seek a triple chip grind blade for heavy cutting of MDF and plastics.

The saw kerf is dead on 0.126" and has well-grounded copper plugged expansion slots, making the saw blade very quiet and smooth when running. Even though this blade has a positive hook angle, I wouldn't hesitate using it in a table saw, radial arm saw, or miter saw. Just please take the time to tune your saw before you rip into some wood and life will be good.

A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

After ruining countless jigsaw blades cutting aluminum planks for a large porch replacement project, I decided to investigate whether a circular saw approach would be faster and provider cleaner cuts. The porch planks were aluminum extrusions that were one inch thick and 6.5 inches wide. I used this Oshlun blade in a cordless lithium based circular saw from Porter Cable. It worked wonderfully, but must warn the user to wear eye and ear protection. The project moved along at least ten times faster than it would have otherwise.

This is the third dado set I've bought over the years. The Freud that I'd used for well over five years needed replacing.

I bought the Oshlun after thinking about it for a while. I liked the Oshlun full-blade inner cutters. My previous versions had vane cutters on the inside with two carbide chipper points separated by 180°. Aligning the Freud stack required an inner chipper arrangement from experience to preclude nick-cuts and occasionally reshuffling the inside blade saw spindle balance. No knock on Freud ... the dado was worked hard and lasted a long time.

My first project for this Oshlun was on 14 4x6" half-lap joints. The Oshlun dado is noticeably heavier - more blade, more carbide tips. Noticeably tighter tolerances on the saws 5/8ths shaft. The tighter tolerancing extends to flatness. The blades arrive lightly oiled and oddly joined with a tight vacuum weld between the uber-flat blades.

The dado cut at max thickness was like a hot knife through warm butter.

Much better than expected. It's the best dado set I've owned.

This thing is the tops for me. For under $90, you can get this thing and get WONDERFUL dado cuts for your projects. I use it for box joints often! Make sure to TEST it on some pieces, get good at it a few times. Use the shims to get finer adjustments (because not all saw rulers are created equal). The dado might be set to 5/8" and you move the ruler over 5/8" and you may be 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch too big. Sadly, this can affect your box joints and dadoes. Still, it comes with the shims, so I just put in a few of them to widen the blade a little bit, just barely, and it turns out perfect every time! Once you get it tuned up, this thing will be your friend for life.

Be mindful of how long the arbor is on your table saw...some table saws only have an arbor that is 5/8
or 11/16" long, so all of these blades will not fit on the arbor safely! The box that this thing comes in is awful! I wish it had a nice carrying case made of rubber or plastic.

Still...works great. looks great, easy to learn how to use if you've never done it before, and great if you want to make cuts that are 1/4" thick all the way up to almost an inch thick. I use the 3/4", 5/8", and 1/2" setups ALL the time because those are pretty standard lumber sizes. Just go to the hardware store and get your choice thickness, and you can make all kinds of cool stuff once the blade and wood are the same width. Think about it...BUY THIS THING!

I use this in a Rage 3 saw by Evolution. Works very well. Cuts very similar to other TCT (dry cut cold saw) I have. I can't speak to longevity as I have only made a hand full of cuts so far, but overall it works exactly as expected. I think you'd be foolish to try to put this blade in a 5k rpm wood saw and think you're going to get nice cuts in steel. These blades are intended for steel saws that have blade RPMs in the 2k range. When you have this in the correct saw it will cut mild steel like butter.

This is a great blade. I’m using it on a radial arm saw. Cuts are clean and accurate. The negative hook gives me much greater control when cross cutting with the radial arm saw because the blade isn’t so aggressive while traveling through the wood. When ripping “one by” pieces of pine or plywood I don’t have to push so hard and it allows me to feed the wood through at the optimum rate. It’s much safer than using a blade that’s intended for a table saw.

Great metal cutting blade. I use it with my Milwaukee M18 metal circular saw. Fits perfect, stays sharp for a while..

They have performed well when cutting very hard alloy roofing sheets, however, they do not last long on hard alloy. On soft metal I would expect them to last much longer.

After reading the great reviews, I had to get it when I saw it on sale. This is a steal at the sale price and worth every penny at the regular price. It cuts perfect joints with flat bottoms. I should have bought them sooner.

This is an excellent dado set that produces a true flat bottom dado. The number of chipper blades and shims enable very precise measurements. They are as good as dado sets costing much more.

I bought this blade set to make Dados and Rabbets for a couple of small projects I do around the house. Since my saw's arbor is a little shorter, but more importantly, part of the metal sawdust collection port is close to the blade, it can't handle typical Dado stacks. This blade set, due to it's unique design, gets in there and also fits within the stock choke plate! You have to wiggle the two blades as you install going one at a time, but since they mesh together on the arbor, it's rather easy.

NOTE: Both of these blades are easily twice as thick each as typical blades, so they're noticeably heavier. I was concerned the extra weight would cause issues with the motor or cutting in general, but nothing seems to be amiss. I do give the motor an extra couple of seconds to get up to speed before pushing through any material.

The two sizes this blade set cuts (1/4" and 3/8") are accurate and VERY clean. These are the perfect sizes to create box drawers from either 1/2" or 3/4" sheet goods, which is what I plan to in the near future, using either the "Quarter, Quarter, Quarter" method for 1/2" material, or "Half, Half, Half" for 3/4" material. Overall, I'm very pleased with this purchase.

Prefect fit for the Omni dual saw. It seems in good quality. Rip thru wood and plastic like butter without any kickback like the regular sidewinder. However, it is a bit expensive for the replacement blades.

It cuts smoothly. With all blades there's still a speed of greatest precision. I apply an even pressure and let the blade do the work for the best results.
Aluminum smear deposits on the side of the teeth do not last long. I do not have a clogging problem with this blade as I have with others.
The steel is stiff and the kerf is consistent between different cross-sections and shapes of material. It doesn't wander.
I have cut very thin and small pieces with no biting or throwing of the piece. Other metal blades I've used bit into small, flexible, or poorly clamped pieces.
This is not an expensive blade and delivers excellent performance.

Quite impressed with the quality, durability, and value of this blade. I only used it to cut up to 2" x 2" square aluminum tubing and am pleased. It still seems to cut fine after dozens of cuts. That said I highly recommend this blade

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

Since there aren't many reviews on this blade I figured I'd give it a rating. I bought this to attach to a husqvarna 165rx clearing saw. Having previously used another carbide tipped blade (husqvarna Christmas tree attachment) and after wearing that blade out I was in search of another as rebuilding the blade alone would cost 1.5x the cost of this blade. Sharpen style blades just don't cut it so I figured I'd give this blade a try for what it costs.

I am throughly happy with this blade purchase as it mets my expectations with flying colors. I am mostly using this blade for pasture brush control (hedge, cedar, and locust). Cuts trees like a hot knife easily cutting down a 6" tree, can cut bigger with a back cut but trees get fairly tall with that diameter and could potentially fall towards you without a way to stop it due to having to hold saw. I have not hit any rocks or wire with it yet so I can't tell you how it would hold up to that but I feel like it would. If I happen to hit a rock or wire I'll report back with details if teeth fall off. Eventually I know the blade will get dull, hopefully I will cut enough trees coupled with not having to sharpen it to justify the cost and order another.

There is one thing that I am disappointed with is the blade is manufactured in China. I didn't rate it negatively for this because I feel that if it was a USA made blade it would probably be in the $80 -$100 range.

I would highly recommend this blade for a similar situation as mine. If by rare chance you have a clearing saw with a Christmas tree attachment (used for husqvarna clearing saws and allows use of 12" blade, normally only accepts 10" without attachment) that you want a blade for.

I purchased this to replace my worn-out Irwin in my table saw. For the price, I'm happy with it. It is sharp, doesn't exhibit any vibration, and doesn't ring. I you've used older style solid steel blades, you know what I mean by "ring". One caveat is that if you're looking for a mirror finish cut on your material, or are looking for a blade to run glue joints, I don't think this will be what you're looking for. While the blade is extremely sharp, and tear-out is very very minor to not distant, the cut edge will have a touch of roughness from tooth marks. That said, I've used this with oak, maple, fir, pine, and cabinet-grade plywood with excellent results. When ripping fillers for cabinetry, the quality of the cut is more than acceptable for that type of work. You end up with a tight joint without tear-out or gaps. If the cut will be exposed, you will have to do a little sanding, but that is usually expected anyway. Only the highest quality blades, such a Forrest, will give you a cut that doesn't require very much in the way of hard work. For the price, I'm more than happy with this blade and will most likely purchase more in the future as I need them.

Cuts through metal like butter! I installed this blade on my Evolution Rage2 saw and it works flawlessly. Having recently upgraded to the Rage2 from an abrasive saw (NEVER again) the difference is amazing. No abrasive/metal dust everywhere, you get small metal shavings, but they are much easier to clean up and next to no sparks. The cut is smooth, clean, and accurate. No dross to clean up like with the abrasive saw.

Be mindful though that you rate of cut and amount of downward pressure must be carefully monitored. You should apply steady, LIGHT pressure, and let the blade do it's work. If you push too hard/fast you'll kill the blade. I expect this blade to last quite a while before needing to be resharpened ($20 at local shop). HIGHLY recommended!!!

Great price and seem to last as long as the $8 ea ones from Home Depot and Lowes. Using these on a Porter Cable recip tool.

These Oshlun dado blades are the best that I've ever used. Having more chipper blades on the stacks make for a really nice smooth cut. I really recommend these blades.

This type of laser is the best thing you can add to your miter saw if you want some type of aid to show where the blade on the saw will cut. People argue that the shadow line devices are the best- I have both and think this laser is superior. This device puts a line on the material exactly where the blade will cut on the left side of the blade- where 99% of your cuts are made. The line is bright and super sharp- it diminishes in sunlight but you can see it. The shadow line is good, but for it to be accurate you have to bring the blade down to the material. If you don’t, the line is wider than the cut. Also, in sunlight you can’t use it. I like this tool so much more I added it to a saw with the shadow line. Buy it, put it on, use it! It’s as easy as that.

Cuts great and great durability. Cut 3/16 plate smooth and easily. Compared to the original yellow brand I would say close to equal and good longevity. I use this saw alot so blades are important.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.
Remember, slow and steady.

I was extremely skeptical about using my Festool track saw to cut aluminum sheets. I was afraid aluminum would somehow wreck the saw and the track. I was wrong it works great. Perfectly straight cuts with very little burring. It did no damage to my saw or track, not even to the sacrificial nylon strip on the track. I used this blade to cut up two 4X10 sheets of .125" aluminum without a problem. I did not notice a decrease in performance at any point and the blade still appears to be razor sharp. Although I cannot compare it directly to Festool's version my opinion is that it would probably hold hold up just as well while at a fraction of the price.

Love this blade. Bought for the low price and am quite suprised with the quality. I use it mostly for cutting wood and it does a great job. I also like that the blade is thicker and less prone to wobble therefore making better cuts. I will be looking at one for my miter saw (12") and see how that works out.

I need to cut aluminum frequently but also hate changing blades on my miter saw because it takes 35 minutes to remove all the safety gizmos before spending 10 seconds changing the blade. Using the wrong blade on a 10" saw can be VERY dangerous, and some blades made for metal pretty much burn their way through wood. With this blade, I get great cuts on aluminum, as expected. I can also cut most other materials just as clean as with other blades, just slightly slower. I'd much rather cut a piece of wood in two seconds instead of one second rather than changing blades twice.

Metal blades can be very specific, even if they look basically the same. Don't use this for steel. I have one of their steel blades, and it's also good. Similarly, if you need to cut stainless steel, buy a blade for that. It might seem like a lot of trouble and money to have so many blades, but they exist for a reason. If you're not a pro, a good blade will likely last a lifetime, or at least until you buy that CO2 laser you've always wanted.

Bought this to fabricate display from 4mm acrylic sheet. Cut well without chipping. Edges needed only a little sanding and then time on a buffing wheel gave nicely polished edges. Blade is good value and gave very good results.

I'm an industrial electrician that uses M12 for my everyday tools. I bought an M12 Fuel Circular Saw 2530-20 specifically because I wanted to try to cut metal with it. The Milwaukee blade is half the price of the saw, so I wanted to try something less expensive.

This thing cuts like butter! Cable Tray, Strut, DIN rail, 3/8 mild steel plate, you name it. I'm VERY happy. I've done quite a few cuts and it doesn't seem to be slowing down, but I picked up a standby blade for when I finally bite off more than I can chew.

Wear a FACE SHIELD with this thing, she throws shrapnel like no other. I was only wearing safety glasses and a piece of metal bounced off my cheek, hit the glasses and then hit my eyeball. Had to go to the optometrist and everything, I had a burn and needed to take eyedrops for a week, luckily my vision came back.

Yep! This expensive blade cuts through stainless exhaust tube like BUTTER!!! Replaced the garbage cutting blade on my cheapo Harbor Freight chop saw with this bad boy and went from 45 second cuts to 5 second cuts with almost no pressure to cut through!

Nothing like making a cheezy tool work way better than it was ever intended! WIN!!!

What no one adresses in any reveiws for a beam saw is the fact that many saws are underpowered for blades this size.

The Oshlun blade performs well as ripping or cross-cut blade. I performed many full depth rips w/ the blade in reclaimed cedar beams. All things considered it performed like a champ. I wish the saw had more power (older style Makita beam saw) I was concerned the blade may pinch o rjam and cause a nasty kick back, or worse yet get too hot and start to wobble / wander. None of the above happened. I'm a carpenter by trade, this is my first time w/ a beam saw, so take it for what its worth - Good price and fast shipping.

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

I bought this blade as a replacement for my Evolution Tools Fury 3 saw. All I can saw is WOW! This blade cuts 10 times better than the blade that ships with the saw. It cuts faster, cleaner, and far smoother. It's better balanced than the original as well. I will never buy another blade from Evolution Power Tools as long as Olshun makes this blade. Buy one and you'll understand. It's easily worth 3x what it sells for.

I am using this blade on my chop saw to cut 1" biscuits out of hickory logs (I use them in my BBQ pit). This is an aggressive blade and it cuts through the hickory like it's butter. This is NOT the recommended use for the blade but it is the perfect solution for me. I can see how this blade would work well in a rescue operation - something it's actually designed to be used for.

This is only a short term review as this blade has not seen a lot of use. It is installed in my DeWalt metal cutting saw. Cuts on aluminum tubing, flat bar, and angle are fairly clean and easy, leaving only small bits of scale on the tubing ends. I applied lubricating wax to the blade prior to using it and during the cutting process. There appears to be no aluminum residue build up after doing this.

I've been using it for a while on my old radial saw. I cannot imagine not having it. It is so dead-on accurate I can cut a piece of MDF that is wider than my blade travel by simply making one cut and then flipping the piece over and lining up the edge for a second cut in the opposite direction of travel. It is bright enough for the majoritiy of my cuts - but if it were a bit brighter I'd give it six stars!
NOTES:
Based on the one I'm using, reviews describing it as "out of balance" seem nonsensical.
It's ready to go out of the package. The included batteries are spares.
I used a short piece of stiff wire (brazing rod) to line up the laser hole between two teeth on my blade and it worked perfectly on the first try.

Buzzes right through 1/4 mild steel bar. I've made dozens of cuts and I can't detect any dulling. It does make a mess. Really sharp chips widely scattered. I built a quick sled for my cordless saw. Keeps the cut square and really contains the chips. It probably also keeps the tips from catching in the cut and breaking. Hard to believe it's this quick to cut steel with a saw I already have.

Can't say what the lifespan of this blade will be, but on our Grizzly 10" table saw this blade cut several 3/4" thick panels of extremely dense plastic being used for public restroom stall partitions. I don't know what type plastic this was, but the stuff is so heavy that it took two of my adult male construction crewmen to move 1 sheet. One man couldn't move one. VERY heavy and dense. This blade cut it like butter. I don't see how you can beat that for the very reasonable price of this blade.

Great blade regardless of it's low price. For several years I have used these in the production cutting of large aluminum extrusions.
On a 12" combination sliding saw, and using " Relton A9" cutting oil, I make steady slow cuts never overheating the material.
Take care of this blade it will cut cleanly and last as long as blades a 4x the money.

Listen up guys. I was looking for a blade that would cut aluminum profiles and work on a Dewalt chop saw running at 2800RPM so I emailed the manufacturer and got an immediate positive reply about this blade. LOOK NO FURTHER. This blade cuts aluminium clean and fast. No Burrs.
Buy this with your eyes closed but make sure they are open when using it.

I used this dado set just to check out the cut, I can't believe how fine of a cut this set makes. I cut a 1/4" tongue/groove to see the fit. No gaps, spaces and as smooth as glass. Then I cut just cut a whisper off to make a sliding tonque/groove, again, unbelievably smooth. This would make excellent drawer slides. I can't believe that a $150-$300 set could cut any better. A great bargain for $.

Pros - Cuts anything, Clean cuts, Less Mess than abrasive blade, Durable, Seems to cut faster than abrasive blade, Does not get aluminum stuck between teeth like my aluminum cutting blade (tougher relative of wood blade)
Cons - Expensive but worth the cost for me, Heats metal to Red just like abrasive blade (at high RPM 3,900), Loud - you need hearing protection with any chop saw
I have not been careful with this blade and after 3 years not a single issue. I have cut a lot of 1" stainless bar, 1/4" stainless plate, and many easier materials like aluminum and cuts are clean. I put this blade in a Bosch 3814 14-Inch Abrasive Cut-Off Machine (15 Amps, 3,900 RPM) and I only wish I had a low RPM dry-cut saw to put it on. I really like this blade! Would buy again.

I had never cut aluminum. After some research I decided for safety reasons it was best to purchase a product designed for the job. Right tool for the job. I cut channelled aluminum 2" X 8" (Bleacher Seat or Plank). I saved the first cut so I could compare to my last cut. I made 90 cuts. The blade held up very well for my purpose. You have to cut slightly slower than you would cut wood, Although, as I neared the final cut, it seemed in my mind that the cutting ability of the blade was getting oh so slightly slower, but that is to be expected. There was no noticeable difference in quality of the 90th cut from the 1st cut. I think the blade will cut plenty more with no problem. There were no lost teeth or blade damage. Probable because aluminum is the product cut here, it leaves a large amount of debris. Probably no more than wood really, but because it is metal, it must seem like more because it won't lay flat on the ground after the cuts. You will want to wear eye, ear and leg protection. I am pleased with this product

I just received this today and I put it on my 12" miter saw to use the saw as a chop saw. I cut a piece of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" 6061 aluminum. It cut that piece like it was hot butter. I used the Olsun blade lubricant before I did the cutting. No effort at all.
My next cut will be on a 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" of the same metal. If it cuts the same way, this blade is worth twice the price.

This blade makes very very smooth cuts in hardwood, softwood, and plywood, using my Harbor Freight/Chicago Electric 10" compound sliding miter saw. This saw is a bit underpowered compared to most, at only 11A. There's just a very tiny bit of splintering on the bottom and back edges, but no chipping at all. The cuts are as smooth as if sanded, as smooth as S4S finished lumber. The blade definitely runs quieter than the blade which came with the saw. And, despite having 20 more teeth, it cuts through thick material better and faster than the stock blade did, especially 4x4s.

It was extremely difficult to find a reasonably priced blade with the negative hook appropriate to a sliding compound miter saw, and they are rare at any price. I really didn't want to spend over $50, being as this is only a $100 saw! I would have preferred to spend only $25-30, but negative hooks could not be found in that range. I also went with this blade because of the full width kerf, which supposedly helps prevent blade deflection, especially on a SCMS. Some say a thin kerf makes better use of a lower powered saw, but the thick doesn't seem to be a problem for my use. Most of the blades made for SCMS, ie negative hook, are thin kerf.

I highly recommend this blade! I cut a fair amount of plywood, so the extra money seemed justified, and as I said, I could not find a negative hook blade for any less. I just wish I could get it for as little money as the Oshlun positive hook 10" blades! I'd happily settle for 60-tooth blade if it were $20 less.

I couldn't be happier with this blade. It has allowed me to cut very small slivers of Avonite on my table saw. Before I had this blade if I tried to cut thin sliver the material would break ruining my piece. Silky smooth cutting…

Works great so far. Who needs a $300 Milwaukee metal cutting saw when I can just put a $30 blade on a ghetto saw? I should take this to work just for the lolz.