I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

I never post reviews. Haven't even had this blade 24 hours, but this thing is awesome. I used this on a Dewalt 20v circular saw, the regular one, not the metal cutting saw. I wasn't sure if my little battery powered saw would cut what I was wanting to cut, and I saw no reviews using this blade on a regular 20v circular saw. I cut a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" steel lengthwise. I didn't try to go super fast, but I was putting pretty good pressure. I was cutting at about 1" per 15 seconds, so it took a while to go the full 8'. I cut 2 feet at a time with 5 minute breaks in between. used 2 full 5ah batteries, plus needed a third battery to do the last 3 inches. I tacked a piece of angle to my plate to ensure a straight cut. The cut quality is perfect, way better than what my plasma would have done, or even a shear for that matter. Took a little while, took some planning on how and what to use to hold it in place during the cut, but I couldn't tell any difference in cut speed near the end at all. Still looks sharp and ready to cut more plates of steel. As long as you use your head, this blade will do wonders. I would bet you could even cut 1/2" plate with no problems, just using lots of batteries. I highly recommend this blade.

I have no idea why anyone would pay more than you would pay for this set. I had this exact set for years, it cuts very smooth bottom dados. I really like the full size chippers, and I’ve always been able to get the exact width that I need. I really don’t know why anyone would pay $100 more or $150 more just to cut smooth dados, I’m not thinking that the carbide tip blades in the $250 sets are going to last one minute longer than the carbide tips in this set. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I had to buy a new set, I did look around before purchasing this brand, and found no reason to buy anything different. Get it and you’ll be happy with it.

Bosch CM10GD dual-bevel miter saw owner. If you purchase it on AMZ you can get the preinstalled laser guide for $80 more or without. I chose without, and after a year figured I'd spend the $20 on the separate module. This thing is great.

How to install: Seriously takes longer to write it up than do it. Unscrew two screws on the blade guard, unscrew (CLOCKWISE) main blade screw, put on laser, screw back in (COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten!) and replace blade guard screws.

MAYBE it took me all of 15 seconds. Maybe.

The laser line is exactly to the left of the kerf. The saw blade is exactly to the right of that line. If you're a half-blind half-fingered woodworker, position the line so it's just left of your offcut... and cut.

Why did I go a year without buying this... do yourself or your loved woodworker one a favor and get one of these. This was easier to install than any of the DIY projects i've done in ten years. I could gush for another hour.

Purchased this blade to cut some aluminum deck railing. Was afraid that I was going to have to cut with a hacksaw. My buddy recommended an aluminum cutting blade (which I had never heard of) for my compound miter saw. I also bought blade lube/wax as recommended. I was leary about cutting expensive railing this way. This blade cut like butter with smooth, precise cuts. It made the job easy, almost pleasurable. Glad that I used it.

Only blades that fit my 5 3/8” fuel steel cutting circular saw from Milwaukee.

I Cut through about 160 1/2” steel rods and a bunch more extruded aluminum even though I shoulda used a non ferrous blade but so impressed I bought all of their brand blades for aluminum, steel and even wood since they’re the only ones that fit my saw; I have the Milwaukee Fuel Metal Cutting Circular Saw, I can only fit 5.5” blades with a 20mm arbor (most blades are 6”+ and only have a 10 mm arbor).

I bought this finish blade for my 12" Dewalt sliding miter saw. I have purchased some small, 4½" blades for my Rockwell saw. Don't laugh. The little saw is a lifesaver for demo and trimming in tight spaces. That said, I was happy with the construction and quality of those little blades so decided to try this 12", as well as a 10" for my table saw. For the price, I'm really impressed. Super sharp, quiet, and runs true with no vibration that I could specifically attribute to the blade and not the belt drive on the saw. I've used this with oak, pine, fir, poplar, Finnish plywood, and maple with excellent results. The cut is exceptionally smooth and tear-out is usually minimal to nonexistent. The plate is nice and heavy, which I prefer to the more popular thin kerf blades, due to the fact that when you're cutting prefinished hardwood crown in the nested position on your saw, there is very little blade deflection throughout the cut. It can be difficult to get a perfectly tight joint in a hardwood crown with a thin kerf blade as the blade will want to deflect to the side as you move through the cut. When you're working with custom trim that can run $80 to $150 and up per 8' stick, you want the best cut the first time, every time. I had considered other brands like CMT and Freud. Both of which I have a lot of experience using. I don't miss the Teflon coating of the CMT or Freud, but I also don't cut much wood that has a high resin content. The expansion slots are plugged with what I believe is copper. So it doesn't overheat or have that annoying ring that lesser blades can have. I found this to be true with the 10" blade in my table saw as well. If you're looking for an alternative to higher-priced blades, I'd give this one a serious look. I've done approximately 6 or so jobs with this blade and it is still as sharp as when I installed it. If this one has a decent lifespan, I am seriously considering a repeat buy for this one.

Best blade I have purchased in a long time. Tried a blade made by a different seller on Amazon. Said it was for alum but just loaded up. This blade goes through like butter....will buy again but don't think I can wear this out!

I bought this blade to use in my Harbor Freight 14" chop saw. One feature of this blade was its rated rpm were higher than the Harbor Freight saw spins at. The 10" blade limits the amount of material the saw can cut since it's expecting to have a 14" diameter blade, but for straight cuts it's no problem. for 45° angle cuts it's more limited.

I have made about 40 cuts through 1x1x1/8 and 1¼ x 1¼ x ⅛ box section, some cuts through 2 x 2 x 3/16 angle and 4 x ¼ flat steel, and the blade is still cutting pretty well - and a definite time saver over using a hand hacksaw!!

This blade works very well. I use it all the time in my line of work. I cut mostly 3/8 all thread rod with it on my milwaukee 28v cordless saw. very handy when you need to shorten all thread rod when your up 20 feet off the floor and need to make a quick cut.

Never using a stacked dado set before, I relied mostly on the reviews of the people here on Amazon (as I do for most of my purchases). Professional reviews from magazines or websites are nice, but I find that it's better to hear the feedback from actual Average Joe users. That said, it was a difficult decision choosing between the Oshlun and Freud sets, but after reading the reviews, I decided to spend a little less and go for the Oshlun set.

A big thing I keep reading in the reviews is how people feel the supplied box is just god awful and deduct a point or two for it. First off, I didn't spend $65 (6-inch set) for a cardboard box, I spent that much on the product inside. With that being said, and considering what people were saying about the box, I was really expecting something with a thickness less than a cereal box to be what held the dado set, but to my surprise, the box is actually very sturdy. It's also really nice that individual styrofoam cutouts were made to separate the saw blades so that they don't contact each other and chip the carbide tips. I plan on using the box as a long term storage piece for the time being until a time comes when I may need to build a wooden case for the set, but even then I'll use the original foam inserts for extra protection.

Aside from that, the blades cut a very smooth and flat bottom with very little chipout on the ends. The scoring was a little bit deeper than I had thought it would be initially, but it's not enough for me to worry about or deduct stars for. It hasn't done anything to lessen the quality of glue ups in my cuts, but if it had there's still 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out in a few strokes.

Overall I am very pleased with this set. I've found it incredibly easy to change the setup and the included chart for sizes is really nice as well. I have no regrets about the purchase.

I bought the 50 tooth variety of this accidentally, and while it worked great until it gave up this one is doing the thing I actually needed. The shims are great and makes a nice tight centered fit to my saw with a smaller arbour.

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

I was skeptical about this laser especially when it arrived and I seen it was used with the package cut open and taped back together.
And I seen the other reviews about it being too thick and having to use washers to space out the guide. Witch I did not have to do.
I didn't have to modify anything at all. Just removed the stock washer/spacer that goes against the blade and put the laser in its place. The laser is thicker though by about a 1/8" at the most and closer to a 16th but it did not interfere with anything on my 12" double bevel saw, DWS779
If the speed of the saw drops as in cutting through something thick the laser starts to cut out from not spinning fast enough but your already past the point of needing it by that time
The thing I was interested in the most was how it lined up with the actual cut line but it does perfectly as it lines up exactly where it cuts to the point that after the cut it barely can be seen on the board again and goes down in the cut path.
I just wish I would have bought it long ago lol
It came with 3 watch batteries already in it and 3 spares (LR44) and I've only used it a couple days so far so I don't know how long they last yet
So there you go and now you know

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

Can't say what the lifespan of this blade will be, but on our Grizzly 10" table saw this blade cut several 3/4" thick panels of extremely dense plastic being used for public restroom stall partitions. I don't know what type plastic this was, but the stuff is so heavy that it took two of my adult male construction crewmen to move 1 sheet. One man couldn't move one. VERY heavy and dense. This blade cut it like butter. I don't see how you can beat that for the very reasonable price of this blade.

Great price and good product, As a contractor these do not last long. Everyday usage cutting nails, copper, gyroc and wood. But the blades do the job needed.

Saws right through steel tubing. I was cutting up an old 1 3/4" farm gate for scrap and the blade got stuck. I could not get it out of the cut as it was pinched in the cut and I could not restart my saw. It was stuck tight. I jerked the saw out of the cut and one of the teeth on the blade popped off. This is a very good blade and I just pass this experience on to other users. If the blade gets pinched and you can't wiggle it out, be careful.

The blades can cut either a 1/4" or a 3/8" dado slot depending on the saw blade orientation with each other. There is not indication on the cut where the blades come together, and the top of the cut is absolutely flat. They outperform by regular multi-blade dado set by far. However, they only cut the two sizes, so they are not going to be your go-to blades for all your dado needs. OUCH!! Hint: Wear gloves when handling these blades. They have SHARP edges just EVERYWHERE! I got the blood off of them before they started to rust and I WILL wear Kevlar shop gloves next time I install them on my saw!

Bought this to cut some 8020 stock to size on my saw and it went thru it like a warm knife thru butter. The cut that was left was a nice clean cut and I plan to use it for some more aluminum 8020 that I am using to build a Taig lathe stand for.
Pat

It cuts smoothly. With all blades there's still a speed of greatest precision. I apply an even pressure and let the blade do the work for the best results.
Aluminum smear deposits on the side of the teeth do not last long. I do not have a clogging problem with this blade as I have with others.
The steel is stiff and the kerf is consistent between different cross-sections and shapes of material. It doesn't wander.
I have cut very thin and small pieces with no biting or throwing of the piece. Other metal blades I've used bit into small, flexible, or poorly clamped pieces.
This is not an expensive blade and delivers excellent performance.

Yep! This expensive blade cuts through stainless exhaust tube like BUTTER!!! Replaced the garbage cutting blade on my cheapo Harbor Freight chop saw with this bad boy and went from 45 second cuts to 5 second cuts with almost no pressure to cut through!

Nothing like making a cheezy tool work way better than it was ever intended! WIN!!!

What no one adresses in any reveiws for a beam saw is the fact that many saws are underpowered for blades this size.

The Oshlun blade performs well as ripping or cross-cut blade. I performed many full depth rips w/ the blade in reclaimed cedar beams. All things considered it performed like a champ. I wish the saw had more power (older style Makita beam saw) I was concerned the blade may pinch o rjam and cause a nasty kick back, or worse yet get too hot and start to wobble / wander. None of the above happened. I'm a carpenter by trade, this is my first time w/ a beam saw, so take it for what its worth - Good price and fast shipping.

I bought this for my Evolution R210 CMS saw. I only use this saw for cutting metal. Used this blade to make some cuts in mild steel. It cuts the steel like butter with very few sparks. It's much better the Eolutions original blade. I can recommend this blade for sure. Due to shipping and import taxes this blade is twice it's original price but still cheaper then an Evolution Steel blade (blue series).

I recently purchased the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide for my miter saw, and I must say that it has been a game-changer for my woodworking projects. This laser guide has significantly improved the accuracy and precision of my cuts, making my work much more efficient and professional-looking.

The installation of the laser guide was straightforward and hassle-free. It fit perfectly on my miter saw and the alignment was easy to adjust to ensure that the laser line was accurate with my saw blade. Once installed, the laser guide provided a clear, bright line that helped me visualize exactly where my cuts would land, resulting in precise and clean cuts every time.

I particularly appreciate the portability of this laser guide. It is compact and lightweight, making it easy to transport and use on different job sites or workstations. The durability of the guide is also impressive, as it has held up well to regular use and has not required any adjustments or maintenance since I installed it.

Overall, the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide has exceeded my expectations and has become an essential tool in my woodworking arsenal. I highly recommend this laser guide to anyone looking to enhance the accuracy and efficiency of their miter or portable saw cuts. It is a small investment that yields significant improvements in the quality of your work.

With all those teeth is makes very smooth cuts. I'm working with red oak at the moment and this blade is doing exactly what I wanted it to do. The cross cuts are very good and I am very satisfied with the results. I've only had it for a couple weeks and so far it's not lost any teeth yet but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

I bought this blade because of the you tube “project farm” review (Best review channel). Understand only rated for ~1500rpm but installed on chop saw at 3300rpm and cut Aluminum, Raw Hide (Dog), PVC, and wood. Too much risk to cut anything harder but no tooth chips yet. Please take care, where leather wielding apron, face/neck shield, heavy jeans… a carbide tooth coming off at that speed can ‘hurt’ 🙂

Used this for a framing job where my old Makita blade had suffered a lot of "tooth decay" and was having serious trouble doing long rip cuts. This blade did those long rip cuts like slicing through soft butter, with nary a whine or a chatter. And crosscuts were a breeze. Obviously it too will eventually wear out, but it has been well worth the money. Recommended.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

Quite impressed with the quality, durability, and value of this blade. I only used it to cut up to 2" x 2" square aluminum tubing and am pleased. It still seems to cut fine after dozens of cuts. That said I highly recommend this blade

I had a project that needed a blade that was not only one that would fit my compound miter saw but also one that would be designed for cutting aluminum. I went on line and googled my need and was pleased to find the Oshlun blade offered at a reasonable price. I read a few of the reviews that were on line relating to others that had purchased their blades and was convinced that I should do that too. I placed an order for the 8" 60 tooth blade designed for cutting aluminum and was pleasantly surprised how quickly I received it. I have used the new blade for cutting aluminum rails & other parts of the outside railing system that I am working on & the blade cuts all the aluminum parts perfectly. I am very happy that I made the purchase that I did. With out the new Oshlun blade I could not do the job that I have done.

We had purchased one of the Rage Saws, which are absolutely terrific in every way. However the replacement blades are expensive from Rage, and not easy to purchase locally. This Oshlun 10" Blade was deliberately designed to be compatible with the Rage Saws. Having a 1" Bore and Carbide Teeth, ground to provide a standard "triple chip type of cut", it is a perfect replacement for the Rage Steel Cutting Blade.

The blade cuts as well as any other quality brand blade, and at a far less cost.

I bought this blade to install 320 square feet of laminate flooring. I bought nice 12mm laminate with the attached pad, so it was a nice thick laminate. I put this blade on my compound miter saw, and it sliced through the laminate like butter. There was no chipping, no burning, and the blade still seemed sharp even after we were done installing the floor. I saved it in case I want to use it again! I highly recommend this product.

One of the best blades I've owned over the last 30 years.

I bought this blade in May of 2014, bolted it up to a 10" Dewalt crosscut saw and started cutting 3 x 5 aluminum extrusion and several other types of aluminum. I've also cut PVC, ABS, and soft woods with it. The only thing I ever do to it is run a bit of beeswax over the teeth and sides once every month or two.

3-1/2 years later, and that same blade is still bolted up and cutting like the day I bought it.... minus all of the pretty red paint of course. 🙂

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

Bought this to cut 2020 extruded aluminum on Festool Kapex, and works like a charm. Festool wants $175 for their blade, and hard to find blade with 30mm arbor that will fit festool saw.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

An absolutely great saw blade for cutting aluminum. Definitely spend the extra money and get some lube for the saw blade I know it sounds weird but it will keep the aluminum from gumming up in between the teeth and make each cut really easy. Without it you'll be cleaning out your saw blade with a screwdriver and the cuts will not be clean and smooth. So do yourself a favor and get the lube for the saw blade when you purchase. It will also extend the life of your blade dramatically.

Cuts through metal like butter! I installed this blade on my Evolution Rage2 saw and it works flawlessly. Having recently upgraded to the Rage2 from an abrasive saw (NEVER again) the difference is amazing. No abrasive/metal dust everywhere, you get small metal shavings, but they are much easier to clean up and next to no sparks. The cut is smooth, clean, and accurate. No dross to clean up like with the abrasive saw.

Be mindful though that you rate of cut and amount of downward pressure must be carefully monitored. You should apply steady, LIGHT pressure, and let the blade do it's work. If you push too hard/fast you'll kill the blade. I expect this blade to last quite a while before needing to be resharpened ($20 at local shop). HIGHLY recommended!!!

I'm an industrial electrician that uses M12 for my everyday tools. I bought an M12 Fuel Circular Saw 2530-20 specifically because I wanted to try to cut metal with it. The Milwaukee blade is half the price of the saw, so I wanted to try something less expensive.

This thing cuts like butter! Cable Tray, Strut, DIN rail, 3/8 mild steel plate, you name it. I'm VERY happy. I've done quite a few cuts and it doesn't seem to be slowing down, but I picked up a standby blade for when I finally bite off more than I can chew.

Wear a FACE SHIELD with this thing, she throws shrapnel like no other. I was only wearing safety glasses and a piece of metal bounced off my cheek, hit the glasses and then hit my eyeball. Had to go to the optometrist and everything, I had a burn and needed to take eyedrops for a week, luckily my vision came back.

I needed to cut many aluminum cleats that were 34" down to 29.75" to fit on the back of the cabinets. I bought a DeWalt Atomic 4 1/2" saw during Xmas, and this blade was all I could find that would fit the saw. So I bolted this up and made my cuts with ease. Being too lazy to change blades, I use this blade to cut the wood rail buffers, and it cut the wood as good as the wood blade. After making about 20 cuts, the blade showed no signs of wear or loss of cutting power. The blade is very quick in speed and easy to control. Sure beat using a hack saw like I did last time. Kind of pricey, but time was not on my side. I searched all over the internet and Home Depot, but they only offered 7"+ blades.

This is an amazing saw blade for the price! I would suggest this blade to anyone with a cold cut saw. I bought one of these for a project to see how it would do on my Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw and it did better than the blade that came with the saw. I cut through 60ft. of 1/4 inch thick steel with no problem and the blade still had plenty of life in it. I only had to slow down because the saw itself got to hot to hold.
I bought 3 more of these blades after the first one, if you have a cold cut saw that uses an 8inch blade this is the blade to get. The price is great and the quality is fantastic.
This is defiantly a great buy not just for the money but for the quality.

I was a little concerned about the brightness after reading several reviews. Ordered anyway. I have LED lights on both sides of my miter saw and the laser showed up just fine. I'm not sure about durability but if I have a problem later I'll add a new review. Hardest part of installation was Loosening the Arbor nut.

I have two sets of calipers: this one and a digital electronic caliper by iGaging that reads in fractions, decimals, and metric. If I really need to dial in a measurement precisely, I use the iGaging. But 98% of the time the Oshlun is my go-to! It's the one I carry with me in my pocket, my tool bag, or even when I go to the store and need to measure a board or a bolt. It's so much easier to intuit the dimension of an object when I'm seeing a visual representation of where that dimension lies on the fractional "clock face." So many times when I use the other one - the digitial one - it will give me an answer of, say, 21/64ths and then I have to stop and spend two minutes doing math in my head and figuring out what that precise number means in practical terms. As a woodworker, I technically work to the nearest 32nd, but I THINK in terms of 16ths and 16ths "strong" or "weak". The Oshlun gives me that knowledge at a glance, without mental math and without hesitation. A machinist may need an instrument that can give them accuracy to the thousands of an inch, but for the work I do, the Oshlun Fractional Dial Caliper is the perfect tool for measuring when I need something more precise than my tape measure, alone. Highly recommended.

I've tried various brands of steel cutting blades over the years and feel like this is middle of the pack. It's way better than some out there in that the resulting edge is very clean with no burrs and isn't overly sharp. I made a pancake griddle out of 1/4" plate and didn't even have to sand the cut edge. It cuts 1/4" just fine but not quite as quickly as another brand I used before. But at half the price, I will buy these every time.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

This review is for the Oshlun 10" 80 tooth fine finishing blade.

I've been purchasing Oshlun blades for the past year or two without complaint so far. This blade cuts nicely when your saw is properly tuned. Another reviewer indicates that they got blade markings, where that would ultimately be a function of a saw not correctly tuned. The runout on this blade isn't bad with a maximum runout of 0.006" and an average of 0.003" which provides glue ready cuts. Ideal blade runout is 0.005" or less.

The alternating top bevel grind on the teeth works excellent with natural woods and veneered plywood. The teeth are very sharp and the blade arrived with very little machine oil present, packed in a lightly padded cardboard retail package. You should consider seek a triple chip grind blade for heavy cutting of MDF and plastics.

The saw kerf is dead on 0.126" and has well-grounded copper plugged expansion slots, making the saw blade very quiet and smooth when running. Even though this blade has a positive hook angle, I wouldn't hesitate using it in a table saw, radial arm saw, or miter saw. Just please take the time to tune your saw before you rip into some wood and life will be good.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

Makes a clean cut on Glu Laminated Beams. Even cuts well at long angles. Got almost 100 cuts out of the blade on 5 1/8 deep glue laminated beams before signs of dulling showed. Would recommend this to anyone cutting large glue laminated beams or timbers.

I use this on a SpeedCut Panel saw for ripping/cross-cutting plywood. I just received the blade and have only used it a few times, but it cuts a VERY clean line with minimal tear-out. Great blade for the money. I'll be interested to see how it continues to perform over time.

Purchased to cut aluminum soffit for a residing project. It cut amazingly well and much faster and cleaner than using tin snips. I used a sled on my table saw and the cuts were clean without leaving dangerously sharp edges. I was surprised how clean it was on the thin material. It did bend the ventilation perforations slightly, but that was expected and not enough to cause any issues.

Make sure you have the right saw for this type of blade. The blade is rated for max 1800rpm. This is not a standard miter saw blade!

But if you have the right saw (in my case, I used an Evolution Powertools Evo380 metal cutting non-abrasive chop saw) you're wanting to cut some 304-316 stainless for a project or product you're developing or building, have at it! It's been an excellent blade for my use case.

Picture shows cut 1/16" 316 (that's aerospace grade, harder than 304!) stainless steel being handled by bare hands immediately after cutting. Fun!

I need to cut aluminum frequently but also hate changing blades on my miter saw because it takes 35 minutes to remove all the safety gizmos before spending 10 seconds changing the blade. Using the wrong blade on a 10" saw can be VERY dangerous, and some blades made for metal pretty much burn their way through wood. With this blade, I get great cuts on aluminum, as expected. I can also cut most other materials just as clean as with other blades, just slightly slower. I'd much rather cut a piece of wood in two seconds instead of one second rather than changing blades twice.

Metal blades can be very specific, even if they look basically the same. Don't use this for steel. I have one of their steel blades, and it's also good. Similarly, if you need to cut stainless steel, buy a blade for that. It might seem like a lot of trouble and money to have so many blades, but they exist for a reason. If you're not a pro, a good blade will likely last a lifetime, or at least until you buy that CO2 laser you've always wanted.

I have found this dado set to be of very high quality and adaptable to many cutting widths. The cuts are smooth and the depths are even due to the relatively many carbide teeth. I was justified in the expense of the purchase compared with less expensive makes and models. I can sincerely recommend this dado set.

Good Product. Bought this to replace the original laser that came with my 10 inch Craftsman miter saw. It has been in use for several years now without any problems. Laser is hard to see in bright sunlight however i usually work in the shade so that really isn't an issue as it can be seen quite well. Works as advertised.

Finally, a dial caliper for the masses of woodworkers out there who care for accuracy and quality. This dial caliper is not only accurate to 1/64th of an inch, but it is also a joy to use for its simplicity and very legible dial. I highly recommend its use in any woodshop. Bravo, a fine piece of machinery. I give it five nails out of five.

After reading the great reviews, I had to get it when I saw it on sale. This is a steal at the sale price and worth every penny at the regular price. It cuts perfect joints with flat bottoms. I should have bought them sooner.

It's a good value. Of course it's made in China. Be sure to order a lube stick to use with it. If you are cutting thinner material like angle or box tubing, get the 120 Tooth. If you are cutting heavier bar stock, large rounds, get the 80 tooth. I ran the 120 tooth on some 3"x4" 7075 bar stock and it wanted to plug up even with plenty of lube.

In addition to cutting sheet plastics, this blade cuts styrofoam sheets, leaving smooth edges and minimal "saw dust". I cut 1-inch and 2-inch thick sheets of styrofoam with excellent results. If you want to cut styrofoam with straight line rips, miters, etc. and have a table saw, this blade is the ticket.

after trying several different brands of cut off wheels on my Dewalt cut off saw i decided to try the Oshlun brand mainly because of the price, about half the cost. i just used it today and it cuts smoother and just as fast as any i've tried. hopefully it will last as long, but it showed no signs of slowing down a bit after a day of cutting 3 inch pipe. looks like a winner to me.

Love this blade. Bought for the low price and am quite suprised with the quality. I use it mostly for cutting wood and it does a great job. I also like that the blade is thicker and less prone to wobble therefore making better cuts. I will be looking at one for my miter saw (12") and see how that works out.

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

The blade is too thin, the locking nut bottoms out before it can secure the blade to the spindle. I needed a .2mm washer to make it work and it does very well. The original Bosch blade is good but not 80$ good.

These Oshlun dado blades are the best that I've ever used. Having more chipper blades on the stacks make for a really nice smooth cut. I really recommend these blades.

Did an excellent job cutting my kitchen countertop to size. After about 40 linear feet, it became noticeably duller. Overall, very plesed I was able to accomplish the job with just my small circular saw. I think it would do equally well for other brand names like Corian.

Excellent tool. Mounted on a Chicago Electric, 6", cut off saw (9K rpm-no load). Cut through 1 1/4" x 1 1/2", 6061 aluminum bar stock with ease. With only mild pressure, the aluminum chafe flew. Gone in 30 seconds.

I have turned some very expensive wood into sawdust and regret. Surely with this tool I can do so at a much faster pace. I have never used a stack dado set before but some would-be-wood-worker-guys on YouTube make it look pretty easy, and most of them have their fingers. So how hard can it be? I threw away the instructions ‘cause, who needs those? When you have 3lbs of steel spinning at 6,000 rpm who cares about that? The center hole for the arbor is extremely close tolerance (and for good reason) which made installation and removal a bit challenging but when installed, very very secure. The instructions indicate the blade stack and shims are “under rated” or “under sized” to accommodate the nominal thickness of various woods. So I took them at face value and installed the 3/4” setup. Now, let me be clear, I have NEVER used a dado set before. I took out my calipers and measured the stack installed and tightened. Just short of .75” as promised. So far so good. Used a square to measure cut depth. So far so good. Set up the fence to center the cut at 4” from the desired edge. So far so good. With nervous anticipation green button, on. Soft start up, check. Dust collection, on. All seems to be going to plan. No noises. No vibrations. No issues. Time to put the wood to it! The cut quality was PERFECT! No tear out, no truly discernable ridges in the cut. The chippers made relatively clean cuts the whole distance. My first dado cut was 25” of pure success. The fitment of the dado was near perfect as far as I could tell. I glued it up, threw in a screw or four and all is well. I wiped the blades down as they had plenty of oil to protect them. The shipping/storage box is not pretty but adequate to protect them. Would recommend to anyone needing the occasional dado cut.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I use this in a small mitre saw and use it to cut mild steel. It cuts 1" x 1" mild steel bars very cleanly without all the sparks and burning that an abrasive wheel produces. If your mitre or cutoff saw is set correctly it cuts clean and straight.

Just remember to take the cut slow. Make contact with the metal slowly and don't use too much pressure feeding the saw into the cut. If you abuse the blade you might wear it out prematurely.

I used this in my 20v dewalt circular saw for cutting 26ga corrugated galvanized metal roofing (for raised garden beds). I ripped 2 panels at a time, lengthwise down the middle. Then i cut them across the corrugation and it did a beautiful job, and pretty quickly. I had to mount this blade on my saw with the label side in, so make sure you wear some goggles and gloves as the backward-pointing teeth will send sparks flying toward you.

Great blade regardless of it's low price. For several years I have used these in the production cutting of large aluminum extrusions.
On a 12" combination sliding saw, and using " Relton A9" cutting oil, I make steady slow cuts never overheating the material.
Take care of this blade it will cut cleanly and last as long as blades a 4x the money.

I had a project that needed a blade that was not only one that would fit my compound miter saw but also one that would be designed for cutting aluminum. I went on line and googled my need and was pleased to find the Oshlun blade offered at a reasonable price. I read a few of the reviews that were on line relating to others that had purchased their blades and was convinced that I should do that too. I placed an order for the 8" 60 tooth blade designed for cutting aluminum and was pleasantly surprised how quickly I received it. I have used the new blade for cutting aluminum rails & other parts of the outside railing system that I am working on & the blade cuts all the aluminum parts perfectly. I am very happy that I made the purchase that I did. With out the new Oshlun blade I could not do the job that I have done.

This is an excellent dado set that produces a true flat bottom dado. The number of chipper blades and shims enable very precise measurements. They are as good as dado sets costing much more.

Excellent value, quality dado set. This has a good complement of chippers and shims to make nearly any width groove you want. The chippers cut smoothly with little to no vibration. The top-bevel teeth on the scoring blades (outer) do make a slightly deeper corner cut as described and as is the norm for this style dado. This dado set has much less tendency for chip-out compared to a router bit, and much improved resistance to burning compared to a router bit.

Oshlun Customer service is excellent. I received one shim with a slight manufacturing defect. Oshlun customer service provided a complete replacement shim set promptly upon identifying the problem to them.
Be aware that the shim set is manufactured to a tight tolerance fit to the arbor, as are the cutting blades. This can make removal of the shims and blades a little slow, but you are assured of good centering of the blades and shims on the arbor. I don't regard this as a defect.

I am very pleased with this dado set and recommend it. I also have an 8-inch Oshlun box joint saw set that has also pleased me.

Amazon Prime delivered very promptly and delivered pricing was excellent.

As a complete novice woodworker, I watched YouTube videos of people doing amazing and easy finger joints with dado stacks. Most said for basic work you don't need to buy a really expensive set.

Well, maybe you don't, but do not go the cheapest set your local store has. Get these instead.

I bought a Skil brand dado stack for 40 bucks at a local store. I made about 5 attempts at notches. I adjusted them, I tried every blade they gave me. All the cuts were horribly uneven, had a lot of blowout in the back, and I was extremely disappointed with them. I uploaded pictures of the best ones.

I then decided to go with suggestions on these reviews and give these a shot, for not much more than my terrible Skil experience. I got them today, tossed them on, and made a cut (I'm just using a miter gauge and a clamp for the test cuts).

I was amazed. It was a lazy cut, I'm not using a sled like I normally would, I'm not even using a zero clearance throat plate. Just a miter gauge. And the cut was near perfect and uniform. I uploaded several pictures.

There is no blowout the back, and in fact I can't even tell which side I cut from just by looking at it.

While I'm sure these aren't as precision as a much much more expensive set, for the relatively cheap price these are very worth it. Get them and don't waste your time with skil.

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

Ok, I received this blade about a week ago and decided to replace the 60T stock blade on my Kapex for a large built in job. This required me to cross cut a LOT of 3/4 and 1/4 oak plywood. This stuff can be made a mess pretty easily with a crappy blade. The 80T did a wonderful job on the ply and solid materials. Almost no tear out/splintering on the ply and the cuts on the solid stock where beautiful. This blade cuts as well as my $150 Tenyru. Time will tell how well/long it stays sharp. Will post more info in a few weeks.

UPDATE.....been using the blade for a couple of weeks. Still sharp. The thing that sets this blade apart, and all good blades, is the ability to cut small amounts from small mouldings and leave them laying on the table rather than sending them off like a missle. This blade has not thrown anything yet! Will be purchasing another one as a back up.

I bought this only intending to cut sheet metal, which it does wonderfully well on my Dewalt track saw. I needed to cut a piece of 1/4" plate and was preparing to use my plasma cutter, but thought I'd give the track saw with Oshlun metal cutting blade a try. It worked! Had a go slow, but gave a nice clean cut, with a much better finish than what I'd get from the plasma cutter.

After ruining countless jigsaw blades cutting aluminum planks for a large porch replacement project, I decided to investigate whether a circular saw approach would be faster and provider cleaner cuts. The porch planks were aluminum extrusions that were one inch thick and 6.5 inches wide. I used this Oshlun blade in a cordless lithium based circular saw from Porter Cable. It worked wonderfully, but must warn the user to wear eye and ear protection. The project moved along at least ten times faster than it would have otherwise.

I was very pleased to find this product being offered on AMAZON. I received the blades very quickly and at a great price. I was concerned about whether the blades would fit and be of good quality. I found out I had not needed to have worried about either account.

I was extremely skeptical about using my Festool track saw to cut aluminum sheets. I was afraid aluminum would somehow wreck the saw and the track. I was wrong it works great. Perfectly straight cuts with very little burring. It did no damage to my saw or track, not even to the sacrificial nylon strip on the track. I used this blade to cut up two 4X10 sheets of .125" aluminum without a problem. I did not notice a decrease in performance at any point and the blade still appears to be razor sharp. Although I cannot compare it directly to Festool's version my opinion is that it would probably hold hold up just as well while at a fraction of the price.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

I recently purchased the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide for my miter saw, and I must say that it has been a game-changer for my woodworking projects. This laser guide has significantly improved the accuracy and precision of my cuts, making my work much more efficient and professional-looking.

The installation of the laser guide was straightforward and hassle-free. It fit perfectly on my miter saw and the alignment was easy to adjust to ensure that the laser line was accurate with my saw blade. Once installed, the laser guide provided a clear, bright line that helped me visualize exactly where my cuts would land, resulting in precise and clean cuts every time.

I particularly appreciate the portability of this laser guide. It is compact and lightweight, making it easy to transport and use on different job sites or workstations. The durability of the guide is also impressive, as it has held up well to regular use and has not required any adjustments or maintenance since I installed it.

Overall, the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide has exceeded my expectations and has become an essential tool in my woodworking arsenal. I highly recommend this laser guide to anyone looking to enhance the accuracy and efficiency of their miter or portable saw cuts. It is a small investment that yields significant improvements in the quality of your work.

I have a Skil table saw and not a newer model. I have a number of projects that I have wanted to do involving dado cuts. After reviewing many sites, I settled on the Oshlun stacked dado set. There were a number of reviews of Frued with trouble fitting to the arbor, I had no trouble at all with this set. Price line was another element. There are more expensive sets and lesser expensive sets. Not an Earth shattering discovery, but this one just fit my budget. I can't imagine those at twice the price being twice as good.
This set comes with 2 main 8 inch blades, 6 full body 6 tooth chipper blades (4 - 1/8, 1 - 1/16, 1 - 1/32), and an assortment of shims (8) wrapped up in a cardboard carrier. Not a fancy package, but I don't do this for a living so adequate enough for me.
I am a relative novice at this, but I was able to set up two different sized cuts in no time. Did a great job. Cuts were nice, no ridges, a really smooth bottom. A couple of practice cuts and your off and running.
For those who are just looking to get into this, you need a saw with at least 1.5 HP better with 2.0+ HP. You also need a dado inset for your saw. It took me a while to find one for my saw. And it really wasn't advertised for this blade size, but it worked. You can attempt to make your own, but I just wanted to plug and play as soon as possible. Amazon, as always, did a nice job in delivery. A nice set. Can't say much about durability as yet. Time will tell.

Was looking at cut off saws to work some of my 1/8th aluminum stock and while researching came across this 10" non-ferrous blade. The idea of swapping the blade on my miter saw and having the convenience and accuracy of the tool appealed to me so I made the purchase. Couldn't be happier. The saw easily cut through all the aluminum I threw at it and produced exceptionally accurate smooth cuts each time. My miter saw isn't the greatest (Kobalt 10") but with this blade working non-ferrous metals was easy. For anyone doing this for the first time, recommend eye protection. The blade creates very fine metal flakes while working.

This is my first DADO stack, I'm glad I didn't invest money on a larger one because this will easily hit any depth I'll need to make. It also goes wider than my 7941 supports (at 23/32" I can still use the arbor nut, I haven't tried going wider yet)

After some of the comments on other reviews, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the floor it leaves. Seemed extremely flat to me.

My only (minor) complaint is that I really wish the shims had slightly larger holes for the arbor. They are only a little hard to put on, but extremely hard to take off. I preferred to nudge my fence rather than try to go back and add another shim, but this time I wasn't doing a lot of repeated cuts. If I need to set up an exact width I anticipate a bit of annoyance.

Had mine about 3 years now. Use it all the time in my woodshop. Never had any problems with it. Works smooth, zeros in and keeps zero. I have noticed that occasionally the zero is off by a tiny, tiny bit, say half the width of the needle. I read in the company's description above that accuracy is +/- .001, so when I see it off zero, that tiny bit probably is .001. So mine is as accurate as described. The metal is nothing fancy, but it is smooth and machined well. Everything fits well and works. I am an avid woodworker. I use it for thickness planing, some joint work , measure the depth of a hole or groove, width of a groove, inside measurements, etc... The dial is easy to read and is in fractions, which I use. So no math involved. The fraction marks are in 64th's, you can also easily read between the marks to 128th's. If I cut a joint to 128th's of an inch you know it is a very good day in the shop indeed !!! Realistically if you are looking to buy one for very fine tolerances for fitting metal parts together or building machinery then you might want to go way up in price range. It's great for wood, the wood probably will move a 128th mark on a humid day anyway. I prefer a dial then a digital. I've read that a digital can round a measurement up if it falls between digits, that it uses energy when off, so batteries get used up. A dial lets you see the measurement when between digits or markings, so I know if just one more swipe of the plane will put it where I want it. I don't think you can buy more accuracy at this price range. For working wood I don't know why you would need expensive accuracy as the wood will move fine increments across it's grain overnight, just laying in your shop. Many woodworkers work down to a 32th of an inch in accuracy. So to be able to see a 128th is very close measuring for woodwork.

I've been using it for a while on my old radial saw. I cannot imagine not having it. It is so dead-on accurate I can cut a piece of MDF that is wider than my blade travel by simply making one cut and then flipping the piece over and lining up the edge for a second cut in the opposite direction of travel. It is bright enough for the majoritiy of my cuts - but if it were a bit brighter I'd give it six stars!
NOTES:
Based on the one I'm using, reviews describing it as "out of balance" seem nonsensical.
It's ready to go out of the package. The included batteries are spares.
I used a short piece of stiff wire (brazing rod) to line up the laser hole between two teeth on my blade and it worked perfectly on the first try.

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

Inherited a radial arm saw. Read the manual and watched the on line vids and got the hell scared out of me and almost put it to the curb as being far too dangerous to use. Turns out, there are specific blades for these saws which minimize the grab of the blade on the wood but are NOT the same blades for for your chop or table saw, even though at first glance they look the same. I initially balked at paying 4-5 times the price of one of those blades for this "right" one, but factored in how versatile the saw could be and the cost of a trip to the local emergency room should the saw sling back on me....and bought one. Smartest decision ive made all month. With the addition of a bushing on the arbor, the blade fit my radial arm saw great and the cuts are smooth. The negative camber design (what sets them apart from other, regular saw blades used on other saws) is what keeps the blade from being too aggressive- essentually keeping it from biting off more than it can chew, and skating up and over the board, or suddenly yanking the board (and potentionally parts of my body) through when ripping. Used this on plywood, mdf, ash and cedar so far, does what it should, I have my fingers and the blade is still sharp.

Great price and seem to last as long as the $8 ea ones from Home Depot and Lowes. Using these on a Porter Cable recip tool.

I've had a Festool track saw since around 2004. It's such a great tool that continues to work like new despite the fact that I don't baby it. Given the build quality of the saw, I have little doubt that the festool blades are premium quality and probably stay sharp longer than this cheaper blade. But so far the Oshlun is performing comparably, so no regrets or reservations about having it as a backup when I send the festool blades for sharpening.

This blade turned my vintage metal cutting saw a beast. Using this blade in the vintage Zip Cut metal cutting saw, I test cut some 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flats and was thoroughly impressed. The flats were cut with perfect and clean cuts that do not require any follow-up deburring. I then test cut a brass bar - 1" x 1/2" and the results were simply perfect.

I only wish I'd bought this blade sooner.

Have done a lot of wood working projects over the years. Have done carpentry on houses. Have done fiberglass work for boats. This was my first foray into Aluminum/Metal cutting. Purchased a 16' X 16' Mechanical Pergola kit for my home and needed to trim the beams, louvers, posts for the install. Purchased a 12" Compound Miter saw from Northern tool and upgraded the blade to this 120tooth metal cutting blade and OMG it was good! Cut 1000lbs of aluminum and it was cutting just as good on the last cut as the first cut. Well worth the money for the quality of the cutting. Beware though cutting metal is nothing like cutting wood! Clamp everything and be sure to keep the items you R cutting firm otherwise you'll get into trouble. I quickly learned as several items kicked and I broke a 2 teeth from this blade but for the rest of the project it kept cutting like they were not even missing.

These blades do the job, last longer than most and are excellent value for the $$$

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

I got this to cut damaged engineering wood flooring. The flooring is over concrete so I didn't want to chance the expensive Festool blade. So glad I made the purchase, the cuts were just about perfect. After I was done, I was able to use this to break down plywood sheets. Not as good as the Festool blade, but I can buy 3 of these for the same price.

Good fit. Initial cuts worked well. I made 80+ cuts through that were 1-7/8" deep in 1" thick alum flatbar.
About 2/3s of the way through the blade started to struggle, but we were able to complete the project. Would probably recommend a cutting lubricant next time.