Oshlun Professional Grade Saw Blades

I use this on a SpeedCut Panel saw for ripping/cross-cutting plywood. I just received the blade and have only used it a few times, but it cuts a VERY clean line with minimal tear-out. Great blade for the money. I'll be interested to see how it continues to perform over time.

Excellent value, quality dado set. This has a good complement of chippers and shims to make nearly any width groove you want. The chippers cut smoothly with little to no vibration. The top-bevel teeth on the scoring blades (outer) do make a slightly deeper corner cut as described and as is the norm for this style dado. This dado set has much less tendency for chip-out compared to a router bit, and much improved resistance to burning compared to a router bit.

Oshlun Customer service is excellent. I received one shim with a slight manufacturing defect. Oshlun customer service provided a complete replacement shim set promptly upon identifying the problem to them.
Be aware that the shim set is manufactured to a tight tolerance fit to the arbor, as are the cutting blades. This can make removal of the shims and blades a little slow, but you are assured of good centering of the blades and shims on the arbor. I don't regard this as a defect.

I am very pleased with this dado set and recommend it. I also have an 8-inch Oshlun box joint saw set that has also pleased me.

Amazon Prime delivered very promptly and delivered pricing was excellent.

I needed to cut many aluminum cleats that were 34" down to 29.75" to fit on the back of the cabinets. I bought a DeWalt Atomic 4 1/2" saw during Xmas, and this blade was all I could find that would fit the saw. So I bolted this up and made my cuts with ease. Being too lazy to change blades, I use this blade to cut the wood rail buffers, and it cut the wood as good as the wood blade. After making about 20 cuts, the blade showed no signs of wear or loss of cutting power. The blade is very quick in speed and easy to control. Sure beat using a hack saw like I did last time. Kind of pricey, but time was not on my side. I searched all over the internet and Home Depot, but they only offered 7"+ blades.

This is the best blade I have ever used on my miter saw (Dewalt). This includes the Forrest Woodworker II, various Freud blades, and the original Dewalt. The Forrest cuts very well, as it should for the price, but the edge doesn't last long. I had it sharpened by the factory (about $42), and it cut very well again, but not for long. I use my miter saw for normal woodworking, I don't cut any kind of metals with it. This blade cuts as well and has held it's edge longer than a blade that cost 4 times as much, and it is even cheaper than getting the expensive blade sharpened. I have Oshlun blades on my table saw and radial arm saw as well, they cannot be beaten, especially for the price. I also have their 8" dado set, puts the Freud set to shame for much less expense. I have now ordered extra Oshlun blades for my saws, as I am sure the price will go up when they get more popular.

As a complete novice woodworker, I watched YouTube videos of people doing amazing and easy finger joints with dado stacks. Most said for basic work you don't need to buy a really expensive set.

Well, maybe you don't, but do not go the cheapest set your local store has. Get these instead.

I bought a Skil brand dado stack for 40 bucks at a local store. I made about 5 attempts at notches. I adjusted them, I tried every blade they gave me. All the cuts were horribly uneven, had a lot of blowout in the back, and I was extremely disappointed with them. I uploaded pictures of the best ones.

I then decided to go with suggestions on these reviews and give these a shot, for not much more than my terrible Skil experience. I got them today, tossed them on, and made a cut (I'm just using a miter gauge and a clamp for the test cuts).

I was amazed. It was a lazy cut, I'm not using a sled like I normally would, I'm not even using a zero clearance throat plate. Just a miter gauge. And the cut was near perfect and uniform. I uploaded several pictures.

There is no blowout the back, and in fact I can't even tell which side I cut from just by looking at it.

While I'm sure these aren't as precision as a much much more expensive set, for the relatively cheap price these are very worth it. Get them and don't waste your time with skil.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

Listen up guys. I was looking for a blade that would cut aluminum profiles and work on a Dewalt chop saw running at 2800RPM so I emailed the manufacturer and got an immediate positive reply about this blade. LOOK NO FURTHER. This blade cuts aluminium clean and fast. No Burrs.
Buy this with your eyes closed but make sure they are open when using it.

I am using this blade on my chop saw to cut 1" biscuits out of hickory logs (I use them in my BBQ pit). This is an aggressive blade and it cuts through the hickory like it's butter. This is NOT the recommended use for the blade but it is the perfect solution for me. I can see how this blade would work well in a rescue operation - something it's actually designed to be used for.

I'm just a hobbyist woodworker, but I prefer quality tools - especially if they aren't too expensive. This dado set fits that description perfectly. Smooth, clean, flat bottom dados with no tear out. My first project with this set was in red oak, and I don't know how the set could have performed any better. Years ago, I bought an adjustable dado set - two blades mounted on a center hub that would let you tilt the blades in or out to change the width of you dado. Total junk. Literally could not make a flat bottom due to the design. Don't know if that type of dado set is still made, but if you see one, avoid it at all costs. I selected this Oshlun set because I thought the full blade multi-tooth chippers and the high tooth count on the outside blades would give a cleaner cut than the sets with fewer teeth and wing chippers with only two teeth. Don't know if that's true, but I am completely happy with the results I got with this Oshlun set. No regrets spending the money at all. The only negative is the advertised storage / carry case is simply a cardboard box with foam cutouts. Still a 5 star product.

I was skeptical about this laser especially when it arrived and I seen it was used with the package cut open and taped back together.
And I seen the other reviews about it being too thick and having to use washers to space out the guide. Witch I did not have to do.
I didn't have to modify anything at all. Just removed the stock washer/spacer that goes against the blade and put the laser in its place. The laser is thicker though by about a 1/8" at the most and closer to a 16th but it did not interfere with anything on my 12" double bevel saw, DWS779
If the speed of the saw drops as in cutting through something thick the laser starts to cut out from not spinning fast enough but your already past the point of needing it by that time
The thing I was interested in the most was how it lined up with the actual cut line but it does perfectly as it lines up exactly where it cuts to the point that after the cut it barely can be seen on the board again and goes down in the cut path.
I just wish I would have bought it long ago lol
It came with 3 watch batteries already in it and 3 spares (LR44) and I've only used it a couple days so far so I don't know how long they last yet
So there you go and now you know

I purchased this blade to cut some 1/8" thick aluminum angle stock with my 8.5" Hitachi sliding miter saw. The cuts were extremely clean, with essentially no burrs. After 20+ cuts (which obviously isn't much!) the blade is essentially new and cutting the same as when first installed.

Finally, a dial caliper for the masses of woodworkers out there who care for accuracy and quality. This dial caliper is not only accurate to 1/64th of an inch, but it is also a joy to use for its simplicity and very legible dial. I highly recommend its use in any woodshop. Bravo, a fine piece of machinery. I give it five nails out of five.

This dado set was on my Christmas list - and Santa delivered! I researched quite a bit and narrowed it down the the entry level Orange, Freud, and the Oshlun. The Oshlun won out primarily due to the low price point. Many woodworking forums indicated the quality was comparable to the more costly competition. I'm not a tool snob and don't really care if my tools are made in Asia, Germany, or on the moon, as long as they last and function as intended. I've used the blade several times now, cutting 3/4 slots with and against the grain in softwood. So far I'm impressed. I haven't used the competition, so I can't comment on how it compares. I have a large saw with a powerful 240v motor, so I can't comment on how practical this dado would be in a small table saw.

Pros: High tooth count, decent manual, smooth cut, flat bottom (see note about edge scoring) and big chippers

Con: Box - many dados come in a box that doubles as a storage case, not this one. The cardboard and foam is adequate for shipping, but not suitable for storing.

Would I recommend this to a friend? Yes

Note: All dados claim to leave a flat bottom. That does not mean that the entire bottom of the cut is actually flat. It does mean that the bottom will be flat except for a fine score at each edge of the cut. Each edge of the cut will leave a very fine score line to minimize tear out. If the cut is just one pass, the bottom looks perfectly flat, the score lines are quite a non-issue and difficult to see. However, if used in multiple passes to remove larger amounts of material, such as in making tenons or larger slots, the outside edges of each cut will leave a fine line that is easily seen. Don't confuse "flat bottom" advertising to indicate a true flat bottom and smooth cut. A truly flat bottom cut would likely come with a bit of tear out. If you absolutely must have a true flat bottom, stick to a router.

I was looking for a reasonably priced full-kerf blade for my 12" miter saw. I had been having issues with a big-name HATB thin-kerf blade deflecting, causing inaccuracies and in some cases actually grabbing the work. After checking out several alternatives I settled on the Oshlun as a kind of low-cost experiment mainly to see if a thicker blade would solve my problem. This one has a .134" kerf with a thick plate and no noticable runout. The results have been stunning. Besides the fact that the blade seems to cut truer with almost no drag, the cuts are clean both on top and bottom sides! We'll see if that keeps up as the blade wears but I have been delighted so far. My blade has C-3 carbide. I think the blade now comes in C-4, which would probably last longer. One thing to look out for is that the mass of this blade is greater than most, which will cause it to coast longer when shut down or put more strain on your blade brake if you have one. Oshlun has won my loyalty with a great product at a great price.

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

I've tried various brands of steel cutting blades over the years and feel like this is middle of the pack. It's way better than some out there in that the resulting edge is very clean with no burrs and isn't overly sharp. I made a pancake griddle out of 1/4" plate and didn't even have to sand the cut edge. It cuts 1/4" just fine but not quite as quickly as another brand I used before. But at half the price, I will buy these every time.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

I have an old 8" table saw, and NOBODY stocks, or even sells- that size, I shopped around to all the hardware and hardware box/super stores, (you know the twi I mean), and even Grainger could not get them!
When I went online, this was the only company that had 8" blades at a decent price, I found a couple others at 2 to 3 times the cost.
It cuts great, enough so that I got a 7.5" blade for my circular saw!

Our 1 non-ferrous blade cut the 1" and 3/4" thick aluminum shown in the pictures and finished very strong. Excellent cut quality and durability. Yet to sharpen it.

I've owned the 210 x 52 and 210 x 36 tooth (as well as the 72 tooth non-ferrous) blades since 2016 and find them to be excellent blades for the DIY builder. I work with all sorts of materials, from Miratech, to fir and pine, to oak, to Ipe (hard stuff that), to chocolate Bamboo (harder stuff still), to 1" thick aluminum (with the non-ferrous blade).

I just keep the 52 tooth on my TS75 for most work. Though I'm not doing day in day out production work, I have yet to sharpen it and find that it still makes smooth clean cuts.

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

Only blades that fit my 5 3/8” fuel steel cutting circular saw from Milwaukee.

I Cut through about 160 1/2” steel rods and a bunch more extruded aluminum even though I shoulda used a non ferrous blade but so impressed I bought all of their brand blades for aluminum, steel and even wood since they’re the only ones that fit my saw; I have the Milwaukee Fuel Metal Cutting Circular Saw, I can only fit 5.5” blades with a 20mm arbor (most blades are 6”+ and only have a 10 mm arbor).

Was looking for a replacement blade about a year ago when my original Makita beam was blade started getting dull. Found the Oshlun blade on Amazon and resisted buying it at first due to the low price. I just ordered my second one after using the first one 6 days a week for 10 months. We cut large Western Red Cedar, cypress, fir and spruce beams all day long with this blade (both rips and cross cuts). This blade has never warped under heating (and we really heat this thing up some days). Good blade at any price.

Since I had to buy one for my obsolete 8" table saw, and loved it, I got one for a 7.5" blade circular saw! It cuts great!
I needed one for an old 8" table saw, and NOBODY stocks, or even sells- that size, I shopped around to all the hardware and hardware box/super stores, (you know the two I mean), and even Grainger could not get them!
When I went online, this was the only company that had 8" blades at a decent price, I found a couple others at 2 to 3 times the cost.
Both sizes are great blades, at a decent cost.

Great blade for the price. I've been using this daily for over a year, and it still cuts clean and crisp. I make sure to remove any build-up of material behind the teeth, so it doesn't burn the wood, but other than that it's been no trouble at all. Definitely a decent alternative to the Festool blades.

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I have found this dado set to be of very high quality and adaptable to many cutting widths. The cuts are smooth and the depths are even due to the relatively many carbide teeth. I was justified in the expense of the purchase compared with less expensive makes and models. I can sincerely recommend this dado set.

I'm an industrial electrician that uses M12 for my everyday tools. I bought an M12 Fuel Circular Saw 2530-20 specifically because I wanted to try to cut metal with it. The Milwaukee blade is half the price of the saw, so I wanted to try something less expensive.

This thing cuts like butter! Cable Tray, Strut, DIN rail, 3/8 mild steel plate, you name it. I'm VERY happy. I've done quite a few cuts and it doesn't seem to be slowing down, but I picked up a standby blade for when I finally bite off more than I can chew.

Wear a FACE SHIELD with this thing, she throws shrapnel like no other. I was only wearing safety glasses and a piece of metal bounced off my cheek, hit the glasses and then hit my eyeball. Had to go to the optometrist and everything, I had a burn and needed to take eyedrops for a week, luckily my vision came back.

I bought this blade not knowing what to expect, as I have never cut metal with this type of blade. I only needed to make about 50 cuts in extruded aluminum I-beam, so if it could complete that job, I would be happy. So far it has performed flawlessly. I even used it to cut some 1/2" EMT, though not recommended, it did the job. I may have shortened its useful life, but I cannot see how the quality of cut has been affected. I do recommend two things: First, use a wax cutting lube, and apply it every 5 or so cuts. Secondly, go nice and slow. For the price, I definitely recommend this blade.

This is my new favorite demo blade.

I spent a day with this blade. It cuts rough, but for demolition work that doesn't matter. It managed to cut through a few hundred deck screws, and rip up a few sheets of plywood that had been coated in 1/4" thick epoxy and fiberglass. This blade is a beast - after all that it's still perfectly sharp and hasn't taken any damage. Besides being so durable, it's really QUICK cutting.

Prior to using this, I had been doing demo work with a sawzall with demo blades. This thing lasts way longer and cuts much quicker. After putting this in an old circular saw, I barely touched the sawzall.

I was cutting 1:4 inch fiberglass panels and it performed very well cut as expected and was smooth. Checked after cutting and teeth was sharp

Pros - Cuts anything, Clean cuts, Less Mess than abrasive blade, Durable, Seems to cut faster than abrasive blade, Does not get aluminum stuck between teeth like my aluminum cutting blade (tougher relative of wood blade)
Cons - Expensive but worth the cost for me, Heats metal to Red just like abrasive blade (at high RPM 3,900), Loud - you need hearing protection with any chop saw
I have not been careful with this blade and after 3 years not a single issue. I have cut a lot of 1" stainless bar, 1/4" stainless plate, and many easier materials like aluminum and cuts are clean. I put this blade in a Bosch 3814 14-Inch Abrasive Cut-Off Machine (15 Amps, 3,900 RPM) and I only wish I had a low RPM dry-cut saw to put it on. I really like this blade! Would buy again.

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

Works great so far. Who needs a $300 Milwaukee metal cutting saw when I can just put a $30 blade on a ghetto saw? I should take this to work just for the lolz.

I use this in a Rage 3 saw by Evolution. Works very well. Cuts very similar to other TCT (dry cut cold saw) I have. I can't speak to longevity as I have only made a hand full of cuts so far, but overall it works exactly as expected. I think you'd be foolish to try to put this blade in a 5k rpm wood saw and think you're going to get nice cuts in steel. These blades are intended for steel saws that have blade RPMs in the 2k range. When you have this in the correct saw it will cut mild steel like butter.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

While i was worried that i would not be satisfied by these less expensive blades, i have been happily surprised. They are a great alternative to spending top dollar for Festool blades that are frankly a bit overpriced. I'd love to see the actual cost compared to mark-up on saw blades. Using a sharp blade saves time, improves quality and pleasure of work imensly. The option of Oshlun blades is a wonderful thing about capitalism, which usually is not so nice. While i might not use them on every job, 90% of the time they do a fine job and I see no difference (besides price) from the Festool blades. Recently I used a not new 48T Oshlun blade while ripping "Hardy Plank" I did a good 10 8 foot rips of the silica concrete board. I think the blade is toast, but even during the final rip it performed more than adaquately. I continue to be impressed and pleased with these blades. I'm lookin forward to see how they sharpen, just for kicks, I'ts probabaly cheaper to toss them, but my sharpening service does a great job, so it will be a worthwhile experiment.

Im a finish carpenter. I use my table saw a couple days a week. I had this blade on my saw for a little over a year. I figured that out from my order history here on Amazon. That equates to thousands of rips. Oak, mahogany, pine, poplar, mdf, pvc, birch plywood, cdx, doug fir, treated... everything. Ill cut free hand and sometimes put a little pressure on the saw. Maybe cute through a nail by mistake. It never skipped a beat. I took it off today. It wasnt missing a single carbide. There wasnt even a chipped carbide. I didnt take it off because i thought it needed to be changed. I just had a new one so i said what the hell. Anyway. Dont buy a different blade. Buy this one.

I bought this blade with the intent of using it when I refinish my hardwood floors. I figured a $20 blade would be a lot easier to swallow if I hit something hard while cutting out some of the old damaged boards.

I did some test cuts on 3/4" birch plywood scraps. The cuts were clean and sharp. To be honest, I'm not sure that the festool blade could have done any better. Maybe the Festool blade would outperform this blade on other materials but for sheet goods I would consider them equal.

I'll be ordering a couple more blades. At this price I would be crazy if I didn't.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.

after trying several different brands of cut off wheels on my Dewalt cut off saw i decided to try the Oshlun brand mainly because of the price, about half the cost. i just used it today and it cuts smoother and just as fast as any i've tried. hopefully it will last as long, but it showed no signs of slowing down a bit after a day of cutting 3 inch pipe. looks like a winner to me.

After reading the great reviews, I had to get it when I saw it on sale. This is a steal at the sale price and worth every penny at the regular price. It cuts perfect joints with flat bottoms. I should have bought them sooner.

I have read several reviews for Dado stacks, and I thought I would give this one a try. A few reviews on other unnamed products are that the cut is uneven, the blades are all over the place and wobbly to grooved cuts and no repeatability. I am running this on a dewalt dw7345 contractors saw which is a 10" I opted for the 6" blade because I really don't see hte point in getting an 8" set for 20 bucks more when dado's are usually no more than 1" deep in extreme circumstances. the blades are dialed in on a micrometer and measure exactly what they claim, the shims are super accurate nad enable you to really dial in thicknesses to the micrometer. For the money this is a super sharp set up and has so many variations. I have shown one thing which I believe to be true on any saw blade single rip or dado. First cut was with no zero clearance image number three with all the tearout, and keep in mind this was baltic birch 1/2" plywood across the grain, with the grain with or without zero clearance was fine, and the second set is with a simple piece of hardboard over top, ran the blade up through it and successfully created a killer locking box joint using the 1/4,1/4, 1/4 method. I would recommend this to anyone!

With all those teeth is makes very smooth cuts. I'm working with red oak at the moment and this blade is doing exactly what I wanted it to do. The cross cuts are very good and I am very satisfied with the results. I've only had it for a couple weeks and so far it's not lost any teeth yet but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

Worked perfect for cutting a corian countertop to remove a dual bowl sink and install a stainless steel one. Worked well bht I could tell by the end of the cut it was tired. Great blade for the purpose and it worked well with the harbor freight Bauer brand 4.5 circular saw to do the job. For Corian it worked perfectly

I recently purchased a Milwaukee 5 1/2" cordless metal cutting saw. It came with a 5 3/8" Milwaukee blade that sells for $39.99. This blade has actually outlasted the Milwaukee blade that came with the saw and so far has shown no real signs of wear yet. Very satisfied with this purchase although I was able to purchase the saw kit elsewhere for much less.

Excellent quality, fits perfectly on my Worx and cuts aluminium as if it were butter. If the aluminium I have to cut is really thick, 4-5 mm (1/8-3/16) I help it with a bit of WD40 or any other rust-off spray, and it does the job. I've done the right choice and l'm really happy with it.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

OK, this blade is a Chinese knockoff of the Freud LU80. It has a high atb grind on the teeth, which means it will cut veneered plywood without tearing the veneer. Very handy if you have to cut up a bunch of nice plywood for cabinets, etc. I have owned the Freud LU80 and was very impressed with the quality of the cut. Hi atb teeth are very fragile though (like little knives), and my Freud blade was destroyed when I accidentally cut through a small nail. I thought I'd take a gamble on an inexpensive replacement with the same tooth profile, thinking that it should cut the same. Sure enough it does, and for darn near half the price. I can't distinguish any difference between the cut on this blade and the Freud's. Nice work on Oshlun's part.

BTW, although it doesn't say on the description, this is a full kerf blade.

What no one adresses in any reveiws for a beam saw is the fact that many saws are underpowered for blades this size.

The Oshlun blade performs well as ripping or cross-cut blade. I performed many full depth rips w/ the blade in reclaimed cedar beams. All things considered it performed like a champ. I wish the saw had more power (older style Makita beam saw) I was concerned the blade may pinch o rjam and cause a nasty kick back, or worse yet get too hot and start to wobble / wander. None of the above happened. I'm a carpenter by trade, this is my first time w/ a beam saw, so take it for what its worth - Good price and fast shipping.

Good Product. Bought this to replace the original laser that came with my 10 inch Craftsman miter saw. It has been in use for several years now without any problems. Laser is hard to see in bright sunlight however i usually work in the shade so that really isn't an issue as it can be seen quite well. Works as advertised.

Purchased to cut aluminum soffit for a residing project. It cut amazingly well and much faster and cleaner than using tin snips. I used a sled on my table saw and the cuts were clean without leaving dangerously sharp edges. I was surprised how clean it was on the thin material. It did bend the ventilation perforations slightly, but that was expected and not enough to cause any issues.

Bought this blade for cutting 1/4" black ABS. I'm using it with a Sears Craftsman 10" Table saw and it cuts flawlessly. Nice clean cuts no filing needed. That's all I've got to say. I'm going to see if they make a smaller size for my circular saw.

We've used these as alternative to the more expensive brands. These blades are an excellent value. Last as long as the name-brand blades. We buy in bulk and use these daily in our work.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

This is a great blade. I’m using it on a radial arm saw. Cuts are clean and accurate. The negative hook gives me much greater control when cross cutting with the radial arm saw because the blade isn’t so aggressive while traveling through the wood. When ripping “one by” pieces of pine or plywood I don’t have to push so hard and it allows me to feed the wood through at the optimum rate. It’s much safer than using a blade that’s intended for a table saw.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

I got this blade to cut thin aluminum tile trim pieces because it was highly rated. When I got the blade I installed it on my chop saw the way I always install blades; with the labeled side facing out. Tried doing some cutting and the blade worked but wasn't very impressive. Then I looked more closely and noticed the rotation was backwards and I had the blade on backwards. Flipped it around so the labeling didn't show and the blade cut like a dream. It leaves an almost mirror smooth surface on cuts and I could adjust miters by trimming a hair off cuts I had already made. And it wasn't noisy the way some people had said. This blade was well worth it for me.

Bosch CM10GD dual-bevel miter saw owner. If you purchase it on AMZ you can get the preinstalled laser guide for $80 more or without. I chose without, and after a year figured I'd spend the $20 on the separate module. This thing is great.

How to install: Seriously takes longer to write it up than do it. Unscrew two screws on the blade guard, unscrew (CLOCKWISE) main blade screw, put on laser, screw back in (COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten!) and replace blade guard screws.

MAYBE it took me all of 15 seconds. Maybe.

The laser line is exactly to the left of the kerf. The saw blade is exactly to the right of that line. If you're a half-blind half-fingered woodworker, position the line so it's just left of your offcut... and cut.

Why did I go a year without buying this... do yourself or your loved woodworker one a favor and get one of these. This was easier to install than any of the DIY projects i've done in ten years. I could gush for another hour.

Inherited a radial arm saw. Read the manual and watched the on line vids and got the hell scared out of me and almost put it to the curb as being far too dangerous to use. Turns out, there are specific blades for these saws which minimize the grab of the blade on the wood but are NOT the same blades for for your chop or table saw, even though at first glance they look the same. I initially balked at paying 4-5 times the price of one of those blades for this "right" one, but factored in how versatile the saw could be and the cost of a trip to the local emergency room should the saw sling back on me....and bought one. Smartest decision ive made all month. With the addition of a bushing on the arbor, the blade fit my radial arm saw great and the cuts are smooth. The negative camber design (what sets them apart from other, regular saw blades used on other saws) is what keeps the blade from being too aggressive- essentually keeping it from biting off more than it can chew, and skating up and over the board, or suddenly yanking the board (and potentionally parts of my body) through when ripping. Used this on plywood, mdf, ash and cedar so far, does what it should, I have my fingers and the blade is still sharp.

I have had an old Makita Beam saw for years and years....this is the best blade I have used....Now it is also the first carbide tipped blade, but it sure works well. I am sawing PT fir lumber for retaining wall lagging; lots of it.....I am happy.

I was a little concerned about the brightness after reading several reviews. Ordered anyway. I have LED lights on both sides of my miter saw and the laser showed up just fine. I'm not sure about durability but if I have a problem later I'll add a new review. Hardest part of installation was Loosening the Arbor nut.

I'm a big Festool fan. Well, I should say that I really like the Festool products that I currently own. I've owned a few green tools that....well.....sucked. The track saw is one of my favorites. Yeah, it's a little underpowered when cutting bevels but I rarely use it to make these cuts. One thing, IMO, that Festool doesn't do well is make blades. I've owned a couple of the Kapex saws and the blades provided are pretty sad. The fact that they provide a 60T blade with a $1400 miter saw is ridiculous. Do they really think someone is using this saw for something other than finish trim??? Sure it has a negative hook but still.... Back to the Oshlun blade. It cuts great. Super clean cross cuts and plenty fast when ripping 3/4 ply. I highly recommend this blade and will be purchasing another. I purchased the 80T for my Kapex and it's a great blade as well.