So I "ran over " a steel bench dog with my Festool blade... Boo hoo my bad. There goes $80. Lesson learned, I'll buy a replacement. Here's an alternative... Hmm $24 for a similar tooth blade? Why not give it a try? Well glad I did! Great cut in 12mm birch plywood. Nary a scratch on the edge and splinter free--just like the $80 Festool blade! Now to stay away from those bench dogs... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BLADE!

Bought this blade for cutting 1/4" black ABS. I'm using it with a Sears Craftsman 10" Table saw and it cuts flawlessly. Nice clean cuts no filing needed. That's all I've got to say. I'm going to see if they make a smaller size for my circular saw.

I had never cut aluminum. After some research I decided for safety reasons it was best to purchase a product designed for the job. Right tool for the job. I cut channelled aluminum 2" X 8" (Bleacher Seat or Plank). I saved the first cut so I could compare to my last cut. I made 90 cuts. The blade held up very well for my purpose. You have to cut slightly slower than you would cut wood, Although, as I neared the final cut, it seemed in my mind that the cutting ability of the blade was getting oh so slightly slower, but that is to be expected. There was no noticeable difference in quality of the 90th cut from the 1st cut. I think the blade will cut plenty more with no problem. There were no lost teeth or blade damage. Probable because aluminum is the product cut here, it leaves a large amount of debris. Probably no more than wood really, but because it is metal, it must seem like more because it won't lay flat on the ground after the cuts. You will want to wear eye, ear and leg protection. I am pleased with this product

I bought this blade set to make Dados and Rabbets for a couple of small projects I do around the house. Since my saw's arbor is a little shorter, but more importantly, part of the metal sawdust collection port is close to the blade, it can't handle typical Dado stacks. This blade set, due to it's unique design, gets in there and also fits within the stock choke plate! You have to wiggle the two blades as you install going one at a time, but since they mesh together on the arbor, it's rather easy.

NOTE: Both of these blades are easily twice as thick each as typical blades, so they're noticeably heavier. I was concerned the extra weight would cause issues with the motor or cutting in general, but nothing seems to be amiss. I do give the motor an extra couple of seconds to get up to speed before pushing through any material.

The two sizes this blade set cuts (1/4" and 3/8") are accurate and VERY clean. These are the perfect sizes to create box drawers from either 1/2" or 3/4" sheet goods, which is what I plan to in the near future, using either the "Quarter, Quarter, Quarter" method for 1/2" material, or "Half, Half, Half" for 3/4" material. Overall, I'm very pleased with this purchase.

A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.
Remember, slow and steady.

The blade is too thin, the locking nut bottoms out before it can secure the blade to the spindle. I needed a .2mm washer to make it work and it does very well. The original Bosch blade is good but not 80$ good.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

I have turned some very expensive wood into sawdust and regret. Surely with this tool I can do so at a much faster pace. I have never used a stack dado set before but some would-be-wood-worker-guys on YouTube make it look pretty easy, and most of them have their fingers. So how hard can it be? I threw away the instructions ‘cause, who needs those? When you have 3lbs of steel spinning at 6,000 rpm who cares about that? The center hole for the arbor is extremely close tolerance (and for good reason) which made installation and removal a bit challenging but when installed, very very secure. The instructions indicate the blade stack and shims are “under rated” or “under sized” to accommodate the nominal thickness of various woods. So I took them at face value and installed the 3/4” setup. Now, let me be clear, I have NEVER used a dado set before. I took out my calipers and measured the stack installed and tightened. Just short of .75” as promised. So far so good. Used a square to measure cut depth. So far so good. Set up the fence to center the cut at 4” from the desired edge. So far so good. With nervous anticipation green button, on. Soft start up, check. Dust collection, on. All seems to be going to plan. No noises. No vibrations. No issues. Time to put the wood to it! The cut quality was PERFECT! No tear out, no truly discernable ridges in the cut. The chippers made relatively clean cuts the whole distance. My first dado cut was 25” of pure success. The fitment of the dado was near perfect as far as I could tell. I glued it up, threw in a screw or four and all is well. I wiped the blades down as they had plenty of oil to protect them. The shipping/storage box is not pretty but adequate to protect them. Would recommend to anyone needing the occasional dado cut.

Im a finish carpenter. I use my table saw a couple days a week. I had this blade on my saw for a little over a year. I figured that out from my order history here on Amazon. That equates to thousands of rips. Oak, mahogany, pine, poplar, mdf, pvc, birch plywood, cdx, doug fir, treated... everything. Ill cut free hand and sometimes put a little pressure on the saw. Maybe cute through a nail by mistake. It never skipped a beat. I took it off today. It wasnt missing a single carbide. There wasnt even a chipped carbide. I didnt take it off because i thought it needed to be changed. I just had a new one so i said what the hell. Anyway. Dont buy a different blade. Buy this one.

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

Purchased this blade to cut some aluminum deck railing. Was afraid that I was going to have to cut with a hacksaw. My buddy recommended an aluminum cutting blade (which I had never heard of) for my compound miter saw. I also bought blade lube/wax as recommended. I was leary about cutting expensive railing this way. This blade cut like butter with smooth, precise cuts. It made the job easy, almost pleasurable. Glad that I used it.

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

What no one adresses in any reveiws for a beam saw is the fact that many saws are underpowered for blades this size.

The Oshlun blade performs well as ripping or cross-cut blade. I performed many full depth rips w/ the blade in reclaimed cedar beams. All things considered it performed like a champ. I wish the saw had more power (older style Makita beam saw) I was concerned the blade may pinch o rjam and cause a nasty kick back, or worse yet get too hot and start to wobble / wander. None of the above happened. I'm a carpenter by trade, this is my first time w/ a beam saw, so take it for what its worth - Good price and fast shipping.

When I initially purchased this blade I wasn't expecting for it to work as well and last as long as it did given the price. We used it to cut a bunch of 3/16" sheet steel and some stainless steel perforated sheet. It's a bit dulled after this project but still has all it's teeth intact and I feel I got good value and service out of it given the price in comparison to some "big name brands".

Bosch CM10GD dual-bevel miter saw owner. If you purchase it on AMZ you can get the preinstalled laser guide for $80 more or without. I chose without, and after a year figured I'd spend the $20 on the separate module. This thing is great.

How to install: Seriously takes longer to write it up than do it. Unscrew two screws on the blade guard, unscrew (CLOCKWISE) main blade screw, put on laser, screw back in (COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten!) and replace blade guard screws.

MAYBE it took me all of 15 seconds. Maybe.

The laser line is exactly to the left of the kerf. The saw blade is exactly to the right of that line. If you're a half-blind half-fingered woodworker, position the line so it's just left of your offcut... and cut.

Why did I go a year without buying this... do yourself or your loved woodworker one a favor and get one of these. This was easier to install than any of the DIY projects i've done in ten years. I could gush for another hour.

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

My husband wanted an 80 tooth blade but as I kept searching for similar items the 120 tooth showed up and was significantly cheaper. I know cheap doesn't mean better but it has worked out great. What used to take 20 minutes of cutting with an 80 tooth blade took 5 minutes with a 120 tooth blade.

I have the Makita XSC04Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 5-7/8" Metal Cutting Saw. This 5 3/8 blade's cut-depth is more than adequate for my needs. I've been doing 90 and 45-degree cuts (not bevels) through 3 x 3 x 3/8 inch angle iron. So far, about 5 ft of cuts, and the blade is still working fine. This compares very well with the Makita blade that came with my saw - for half the price. I think this Oshlun blade cuts a little faster than the Makita. Definitely recommend.

Bought this to fabricate display from 4mm acrylic sheet. Cut well without chipping. Edges needed only a little sanding and then time on a buffing wheel gave nicely polished edges. Blade is good value and gave very good results.

Worked perfect for cutting a corian countertop to remove a dual bowl sink and install a stainless steel one. Worked well bht I could tell by the end of the cut it was tired. Great blade for the purpose and it worked well with the harbor freight Bauer brand 4.5 circular saw to do the job. For Corian it worked perfectly

I was very pleased to find this product being offered on AMAZON. I received the blades very quickly and at a great price. I was concerned about whether the blades would fit and be of good quality. I found out I had not needed to have worried about either account.

Never seen a saw with the primary purpose of cutting plastics, but as these become more and more common, I'm glad someone make a proper blade. Cuts well through Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly(Ethylene) and Poly(Formaldehyde) / Poly(Oxymethanal). As those are two of the most physically impressive thermoplastics, I'm sure it'll cut through everything else just fine. As long as you push the plastic through at a reasonable speed, you'll get a clean edge with no melt deformation.

I've been using it for a while on my old radial saw. I cannot imagine not having it. It is so dead-on accurate I can cut a piece of MDF that is wider than my blade travel by simply making one cut and then flipping the piece over and lining up the edge for a second cut in the opposite direction of travel. It is bright enough for the majoritiy of my cuts - but if it were a bit brighter I'd give it six stars!
NOTES:
Based on the one I'm using, reviews describing it as "out of balance" seem nonsensical.
It's ready to go out of the package. The included batteries are spares.
I used a short piece of stiff wire (brazing rod) to line up the laser hole between two teeth on my blade and it worked perfectly on the first try.

I was extremely skeptical about using my Festool track saw to cut aluminum sheets. I was afraid aluminum would somehow wreck the saw and the track. I was wrong it works great. Perfectly straight cuts with very little burring. It did no damage to my saw or track, not even to the sacrificial nylon strip on the track. I used this blade to cut up two 4X10 sheets of .125" aluminum without a problem. I did not notice a decrease in performance at any point and the blade still appears to be razor sharp. Although I cannot compare it directly to Festool's version my opinion is that it would probably hold hold up just as well while at a fraction of the price.

Was looking for a replacement blade about a year ago when my original Makita beam was blade started getting dull. Found the Oshlun blade on Amazon and resisted buying it at first due to the low price. I just ordered my second one after using the first one 6 days a week for 10 months. We cut large Western Red Cedar, cypress, fir and spruce beams all day long with this blade (both rips and cross cuts). This blade has never warped under heating (and we really heat this thing up some days). Good blade at any price.

I use this on a SpeedCut Panel saw for ripping/cross-cutting plywood. I just received the blade and have only used it a few times, but it cuts a VERY clean line with minimal tear-out. Great blade for the money. I'll be interested to see how it continues to perform over time.

After reading the great reviews, I had to get it when I saw it on sale. This is a steal at the sale price and worth every penny at the regular price. It cuts perfect joints with flat bottoms. I should have bought them sooner.

I bought this blade as a replacement for my Evolution Tools Fury 3 saw. All I can saw is WOW! This blade cuts 10 times better than the blade that ships with the saw. It cuts faster, cleaner, and far smoother. It's better balanced than the original as well. I will never buy another blade from Evolution Power Tools as long as Olshun makes this blade. Buy one and you'll understand. It's easily worth 3x what it sells for.

Saws right through steel tubing. I was cutting up an old 1 3/4" farm gate for scrap and the blade got stuck. I could not get it out of the cut as it was pinched in the cut and I could not restart my saw. It was stuck tight. I jerked the saw out of the cut and one of the teeth on the blade popped off. This is a very good blade and I just pass this experience on to other users. If the blade gets pinched and you can't wiggle it out, be careful.

I have an old 8" table saw, and NOBODY stocks, or even sells- that size, I shopped around to all the hardware and hardware box/super stores, (you know the twi I mean), and even Grainger could not get them!
When I went online, this was the only company that had 8" blades at a decent price, I found a couple others at 2 to 3 times the cost.
It cuts great, enough so that I got a 7.5" blade for my circular saw!

I purchased this blade to cut some 1/8" thick aluminum angle stock with my 8.5" Hitachi sliding miter saw. The cuts were extremely clean, with essentially no burrs. After 20+ cuts (which obviously isn't much!) the blade is essentially new and cutting the same as when first installed.

This blade makes very very smooth cuts in hardwood, softwood, and plywood, using my Harbor Freight/Chicago Electric 10" compound sliding miter saw. This saw is a bit underpowered compared to most, at only 11A. There's just a very tiny bit of splintering on the bottom and back edges, but no chipping at all. The cuts are as smooth as if sanded, as smooth as S4S finished lumber. The blade definitely runs quieter than the blade which came with the saw. And, despite having 20 more teeth, it cuts through thick material better and faster than the stock blade did, especially 4x4s.

It was extremely difficult to find a reasonably priced blade with the negative hook appropriate to a sliding compound miter saw, and they are rare at any price. I really didn't want to spend over $50, being as this is only a $100 saw! I would have preferred to spend only $25-30, but negative hooks could not be found in that range. I also went with this blade because of the full width kerf, which supposedly helps prevent blade deflection, especially on a SCMS. Some say a thin kerf makes better use of a lower powered saw, but the thick doesn't seem to be a problem for my use. Most of the blades made for SCMS, ie negative hook, are thin kerf.

I highly recommend this blade! I cut a fair amount of plywood, so the extra money seemed justified, and as I said, I could not find a negative hook blade for any less. I just wish I could get it for as little money as the Oshlun positive hook 10" blades! I'd happily settle for 60-tooth blade if it were $20 less.

I've bought these in the past and they perform well at a fraction of Fein's price. That said, they're not metal cutting like the Feins but they do a good job on wood.

This thing is the tops for me. For under $90, you can get this thing and get WONDERFUL dado cuts for your projects. I use it for box joints often! Make sure to TEST it on some pieces, get good at it a few times. Use the shims to get finer adjustments (because not all saw rulers are created equal). The dado might be set to 5/8" and you move the ruler over 5/8" and you may be 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch too big. Sadly, this can affect your box joints and dadoes. Still, it comes with the shims, so I just put in a few of them to widen the blade a little bit, just barely, and it turns out perfect every time! Once you get it tuned up, this thing will be your friend for life.

Be mindful of how long the arbor is on your table saw...some table saws only have an arbor that is 5/8
or 11/16" long, so all of these blades will not fit on the arbor safely! The box that this thing comes in is awful! I wish it had a nice carrying case made of rubber or plastic.

Still...works great. looks great, easy to learn how to use if you've never done it before, and great if you want to make cuts that are 1/4" thick all the way up to almost an inch thick. I use the 3/4", 5/8", and 1/2" setups ALL the time because those are pretty standard lumber sizes. Just go to the hardware store and get your choice thickness, and you can make all kinds of cool stuff once the blade and wood are the same width. Think about it...BUY THIS THING!

I've tried various brands of steel cutting blades over the years and feel like this is middle of the pack. It's way better than some out there in that the resulting edge is very clean with no burrs and isn't overly sharp. I made a pancake griddle out of 1/4" plate and didn't even have to sand the cut edge. It cuts 1/4" just fine but not quite as quickly as another brand I used before. But at half the price, I will buy these every time.

Prefect fit for the Omni dual saw. It seems in good quality. Rip thru wood and plastic like butter without any kickback like the regular sidewinder. However, it is a bit expensive for the replacement blades.

I bought this to cut up left over Ipe decking. That stuff is harder than the hub of hell. I am very sure on softwood even 20 years Doug fir it would cut like butter. The Ipe is too dense and the blade need more teeth to cut quickly.

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

I bought this blade with the intent of using it when I refinish my hardwood floors. I figured a $20 blade would be a lot easier to swallow if I hit something hard while cutting out some of the old damaged boards.

I did some test cuts on 3/4" birch plywood scraps. The cuts were clean and sharp. To be honest, I'm not sure that the festool blade could have done any better. Maybe the Festool blade would outperform this blade on other materials but for sheet goods I would consider them equal.

I'll be ordering a couple more blades. At this price I would be crazy if I didn't.

Excellent tool. Mounted on a Chicago Electric, 6", cut off saw (9K rpm-no load). Cut through 1 1/4" x 1 1/2", 6061 aluminum bar stock with ease. With only mild pressure, the aluminum chafe flew. Gone in 30 seconds.

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

I needed to cut many aluminum cleats that were 34" down to 29.75" to fit on the back of the cabinets. I bought a DeWalt Atomic 4 1/2" saw during Xmas, and this blade was all I could find that would fit the saw. So I bolted this up and made my cuts with ease. Being too lazy to change blades, I use this blade to cut the wood rail buffers, and it cut the wood as good as the wood blade. After making about 20 cuts, the blade showed no signs of wear or loss of cutting power. The blade is very quick in speed and easy to control. Sure beat using a hack saw like I did last time. Kind of pricey, but time was not on my side. I searched all over the internet and Home Depot, but they only offered 7"+ blades.

I already owned an inexpensive digital caliper but if I leave thee button battery in it when not in use the battery discharges over time. Also the return to zero does drift slightly during use. When I found I needed a fractional caliper I decided to try a dial type.

I bought the Oshlum Dial Caliper over 2 years ago from Amazon for about $31; but I waited to use it on several projects to determine how good it was for my need and how well it held up before I reviewed it. I use it for DIY projects so I did not want to spend the price for a professional grade tool.That considered I found the build quality to be very good and it returned to zero every time. The action was very smooth and was as accurate as I could determine against an extrapolation caliper I know is accurate to .0005 inch. The dial is large enough to easily view and displays both fractional measures on the outside of a drawn ring and decimal measures on inside of the ring. I did not abuse it but it did hit a cement floor more than once and has not shown any damage. I found it excellent for my needs so it deserves the 5 stars.

This is an amazing saw blade for the price! I would suggest this blade to anyone with a cold cut saw. I bought one of these for a project to see how it would do on my Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw and it did better than the blade that came with the saw. I cut through 60ft. of 1/4 inch thick steel with no problem and the blade still had plenty of life in it. I only had to slow down because the saw itself got to hot to hold.
I bought 3 more of these blades after the first one, if you have a cold cut saw that uses an 8inch blade this is the blade to get. The price is great and the quality is fantastic.
This is defiantly a great buy not just for the money but for the quality.

Great blade for the price. I've been using this daily for over a year, and it still cuts clean and crisp. I make sure to remove any build-up of material behind the teeth, so it doesn't burn the wood, but other than that it's been no trouble at all. Definitely a decent alternative to the Festool blades.

Can't say what the lifespan of this blade will be, but on our Grizzly 10" table saw this blade cut several 3/4" thick panels of extremely dense plastic being used for public restroom stall partitions. I don't know what type plastic this was, but the stuff is so heavy that it took two of my adult male construction crewmen to move 1 sheet. One man couldn't move one. VERY heavy and dense. This blade cut it like butter. I don't see how you can beat that for the very reasonable price of this blade.

I used this in my 20v dewalt circular saw for cutting 26ga corrugated galvanized metal roofing (for raised garden beds). I ripped 2 panels at a time, lengthwise down the middle. Then i cut them across the corrugation and it did a beautiful job, and pretty quickly. I had to mount this blade on my saw with the label side in, so make sure you wear some goggles and gloves as the backward-pointing teeth will send sparks flying toward you.

I bought these to use on my Mafell track saw when I was building my home and had a lot of richlite cladding and shelves to cut. That material is very hard on blades and after going through several Mafell blades I figured I could try these as they are much less expensive. They worked very well… durability was the same as Mafell. The kerf is a bit bigger which means I have to replace my rubber edge strip on my tracks when I go back to the Mafell blades. I haven’t tried these with wood so I can’t saw how clean they cut (Mafell blade leaves glass like finish). Anyway they are very good blades for the money.

After ruining countless jigsaw blades cutting aluminum planks for a large porch replacement project, I decided to investigate whether a circular saw approach would be faster and provider cleaner cuts. The porch planks were aluminum extrusions that were one inch thick and 6.5 inches wide. I used this Oshlun blade in a cordless lithium based circular saw from Porter Cable. It worked wonderfully, but must warn the user to wear eye and ear protection. The project moved along at least ten times faster than it would have otherwise.

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

We've used these as alternative to the more expensive brands. These blades are an excellent value. Last as long as the name-brand blades. We buy in bulk and use these daily in our work.

I was a little concerned about the brightness after reading several reviews. Ordered anyway. I have LED lights on both sides of my miter saw and the laser showed up just fine. I'm not sure about durability but if I have a problem later I'll add a new review. Hardest part of installation was Loosening the Arbor nut.

I upgraded my stock blade on my Bosch Surgeon Axle Glide compound mitre. For trim work, this is fantastic. The cut is smooth and minimal tear out, even on the underside, where most tear out occurs. The finish surface of the cut is so smooth that sanding is almost not needed. One other thing: almost no deflection in the blade. This stiff blade really helps with keeping the cut straight on wide boards.

I got this blade to cut thin aluminum tile trim pieces because it was highly rated. When I got the blade I installed it on my chop saw the way I always install blades; with the labeled side facing out. Tried doing some cutting and the blade worked but wasn't very impressive. Then I looked more closely and noticed the rotation was backwards and I had the blade on backwards. Flipped it around so the labeling didn't show and the blade cut like a dream. It leaves an almost mirror smooth surface on cuts and I could adjust miters by trimming a hair off cuts I had already made. And it wasn't noisy the way some people had said. This blade was well worth it for me.

The blade has worked great. I have made over 100 cuts with it so far and it doesn't seem to be getting dull. Not only that, the blade cuts through aluminium cleanly and smoothly like a hot knife through butter. I really couldn't be more satisfied with my purchase.

Very nicely machined. It moves and holds its position very nicely. Easy to read dial; easy to read numbers. The fractional numbering on the outside of the dial, which makes the fractions easier to see. The decimal scale on the inside of dial is more natural to look at and the smaller size is not a problem to read. Other more expensive fractional calipers I have seen are much harder to read. Very nice for the price.

Bought the 30 tooth for thicker ferrous metals and 50 tooth for thinner ferrous and both cut great for there specific intention. Bought 5 3/8" size and used on my M18 Milwaukee metal saw. No complaints other then wish they made it in a
5 1/2" or 5 7/8" so that I can fully cut through a bundle of light gauge 1 5/8" studs in one shot as the blade wears down. They do sell the 5 7/8" for thicker ferrous metal but not ideal for light gauge studs because leaves thicker burrs and not as clean cut.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

These Oshlun blades are great. I bought this one so I will always have one on hand when my Festool blade is being sharpened. The carbides on the Oshlun are larger than the Festool, while all the critical dimensions remain the same. It's the same kerf, rake, diameter and tooth count as the Festool blade and it won't mess with your zero clearance at all because of this. I have a number of these blades for my TS55 and my TS75. I dare say I like the Oshlun blades better due to the larger carbides.

I need to cut aluminum frequently but also hate changing blades on my miter saw because it takes 35 minutes to remove all the safety gizmos before spending 10 seconds changing the blade. Using the wrong blade on a 10" saw can be VERY dangerous, and some blades made for metal pretty much burn their way through wood. With this blade, I get great cuts on aluminum, as expected. I can also cut most other materials just as clean as with other blades, just slightly slower. I'd much rather cut a piece of wood in two seconds instead of one second rather than changing blades twice.

Metal blades can be very specific, even if they look basically the same. Don't use this for steel. I have one of their steel blades, and it's also good. Similarly, if you need to cut stainless steel, buy a blade for that. It might seem like a lot of trouble and money to have so many blades, but they exist for a reason. If you're not a pro, a good blade will likely last a lifetime, or at least until you buy that CO2 laser you've always wanted.

I am using this blade on my chop saw to cut 1" biscuits out of hickory logs (I use them in my BBQ pit). This is an aggressive blade and it cuts through the hickory like it's butter. This is NOT the recommended use for the blade but it is the perfect solution for me. I can see how this blade would work well in a rescue operation - something it's actually designed to be used for.

I have no idea why anyone would pay more than you would pay for this set. I had this exact set for years, it cuts very smooth bottom dados. I really like the full size chippers, and I’ve always been able to get the exact width that I need. I really don’t know why anyone would pay $100 more or $150 more just to cut smooth dados, I’m not thinking that the carbide tip blades in the $250 sets are going to last one minute longer than the carbide tips in this set. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I had to buy a new set, I did look around before purchasing this brand, and found no reason to buy anything different. Get it and you’ll be happy with it.

For the money this is a great saw blade. The 5 stars only applies to this price range since there are probably better blades for more money - but I'm not sure my saw would show any difference. I would definitely buy another one of these. My Grizzly track saw with this blade cuts as good (or even better) than my DeWalt table saw with a (Home Depot) Freud blade. BTW, I made a zero clearance device for my track saw so I get zero tear out on either side of the cut. I can't rate the blade for that since I never get any tear out with any blade.

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

These blades do the job, last longer than most and are excellent value for the $$$

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

Great blade for the price. They fit my Fein, dewalt perfectly. Very happy and will purchase them again.

Makes a clean cut on Glu Laminated Beams. Even cuts well at long angles. Got almost 100 cuts out of the blade on 5 1/8 deep glue laminated beams before signs of dulling showed. Would recommend this to anyone cutting large glue laminated beams or timbers.

I had a project that needed a blade that was not only one that would fit my compound miter saw but also one that would be designed for cutting aluminum. I went on line and googled my need and was pleased to find the Oshlun blade offered at a reasonable price. I read a few of the reviews that were on line relating to others that had purchased their blades and was convinced that I should do that too. I placed an order for the 8" 60 tooth blade designed for cutting aluminum and was pleasantly surprised how quickly I received it. I have used the new blade for cutting aluminum rails & other parts of the outside railing system that I am working on & the blade cuts all the aluminum parts perfectly. I am very happy that I made the purchase that I did. With out the new Oshlun blade I could not do the job that I have done.