Oshlun Professional Grade Saw Blades

Bought the 30 tooth for thicker ferrous metals and 50 tooth for thinner ferrous and both cut great for there specific intention. Bought 5 3/8" size and used on my M18 Milwaukee metal saw. No complaints other then wish they made it in a
5 1/2" or 5 7/8" so that I can fully cut through a bundle of light gauge 1 5/8" studs in one shot as the blade wears down. They do sell the 5 7/8" for thicker ferrous metal but not ideal for light gauge studs because leaves thicker burrs and not as clean cut.

While i was worried that i would not be satisfied by these less expensive blades, i have been happily surprised. They are a great alternative to spending top dollar for Festool blades that are frankly a bit overpriced. I'd love to see the actual cost compared to mark-up on saw blades. Using a sharp blade saves time, improves quality and pleasure of work imensly. The option of Oshlun blades is a wonderful thing about capitalism, which usually is not so nice. While i might not use them on every job, 90% of the time they do a fine job and I see no difference (besides price) from the Festool blades. Recently I used a not new 48T Oshlun blade while ripping "Hardy Plank" I did a good 10 8 foot rips of the silica concrete board. I think the blade is toast, but even during the final rip it performed more than adaquately. I continue to be impressed and pleased with these blades. I'm lookin forward to see how they sharpen, just for kicks, I'ts probabaly cheaper to toss them, but my sharpening service does a great job, so it will be a worthwhile experiment.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

I purchased this to replace my worn-out Irwin in my table saw. For the price, I'm happy with it. It is sharp, doesn't exhibit any vibration, and doesn't ring. I you've used older style solid steel blades, you know what I mean by "ring". One caveat is that if you're looking for a mirror finish cut on your material, or are looking for a blade to run glue joints, I don't think this will be what you're looking for. While the blade is extremely sharp, and tear-out is very very minor to not distant, the cut edge will have a touch of roughness from tooth marks. That said, I've used this with oak, maple, fir, pine, and cabinet-grade plywood with excellent results. When ripping fillers for cabinetry, the quality of the cut is more than acceptable for that type of work. You end up with a tight joint without tear-out or gaps. If the cut will be exposed, you will have to do a little sanding, but that is usually expected anyway. Only the highest quality blades, such a Forrest, will give you a cut that doesn't require very much in the way of hard work. For the price, I'm more than happy with this blade and will most likely purchase more in the future as I need them.

It cuts smoothly. With all blades there's still a speed of greatest precision. I apply an even pressure and let the blade do the work for the best results.
Aluminum smear deposits on the side of the teeth do not last long. I do not have a clogging problem with this blade as I have with others.
The steel is stiff and the kerf is consistent between different cross-sections and shapes of material. It doesn't wander.
I have cut very thin and small pieces with no biting or throwing of the piece. Other metal blades I've used bit into small, flexible, or poorly clamped pieces.
This is not an expensive blade and delivers excellent performance.

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

Bought this to fabricate display from 4mm acrylic sheet. Cut well without chipping. Edges needed only a little sanding and then time on a buffing wheel gave nicely polished edges. Blade is good value and gave very good results.

I have turned some very expensive wood into sawdust and regret. Surely with this tool I can do so at a much faster pace. I have never used a stack dado set before but some would-be-wood-worker-guys on YouTube make it look pretty easy, and most of them have their fingers. So how hard can it be? I threw away the instructions ‘cause, who needs those? When you have 3lbs of steel spinning at 6,000 rpm who cares about that? The center hole for the arbor is extremely close tolerance (and for good reason) which made installation and removal a bit challenging but when installed, very very secure. The instructions indicate the blade stack and shims are “under rated” or “under sized” to accommodate the nominal thickness of various woods. So I took them at face value and installed the 3/4” setup. Now, let me be clear, I have NEVER used a dado set before. I took out my calipers and measured the stack installed and tightened. Just short of .75” as promised. So far so good. Used a square to measure cut depth. So far so good. Set up the fence to center the cut at 4” from the desired edge. So far so good. With nervous anticipation green button, on. Soft start up, check. Dust collection, on. All seems to be going to plan. No noises. No vibrations. No issues. Time to put the wood to it! The cut quality was PERFECT! No tear out, no truly discernable ridges in the cut. The chippers made relatively clean cuts the whole distance. My first dado cut was 25” of pure success. The fitment of the dado was near perfect as far as I could tell. I glued it up, threw in a screw or four and all is well. I wiped the blades down as they had plenty of oil to protect them. The shipping/storage box is not pretty but adequate to protect them. Would recommend to anyone needing the occasional dado cut.

I never post reviews. Haven't even had this blade 24 hours, but this thing is awesome. I used this on a Dewalt 20v circular saw, the regular one, not the metal cutting saw. I wasn't sure if my little battery powered saw would cut what I was wanting to cut, and I saw no reviews using this blade on a regular 20v circular saw. I cut a 4'x8' sheet of 1/4" steel lengthwise. I didn't try to go super fast, but I was putting pretty good pressure. I was cutting at about 1" per 15 seconds, so it took a while to go the full 8'. I cut 2 feet at a time with 5 minute breaks in between. used 2 full 5ah batteries, plus needed a third battery to do the last 3 inches. I tacked a piece of angle to my plate to ensure a straight cut. The cut quality is perfect, way better than what my plasma would have done, or even a shear for that matter. Took a little while, took some planning on how and what to use to hold it in place during the cut, but I couldn't tell any difference in cut speed near the end at all. Still looks sharp and ready to cut more plates of steel. As long as you use your head, this blade will do wonders. I would bet you could even cut 1/2" plate with no problems, just using lots of batteries. I highly recommend this blade.

This blade does exactly what it says it will do. It cuts a nice straight cut thru aluminum like butter. No kickback at all. One thing it does that's a negative is the chips it creates. They're little flakes that are hard to clean up. I've swept them up even used the shop vac and I still keep finding them. This is not the fault of the blade or saw. This is just how it works but it is something to make note of.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

Bosch CM10GD dual-bevel miter saw owner. If you purchase it on AMZ you can get the preinstalled laser guide for $80 more or without. I chose without, and after a year figured I'd spend the $20 on the separate module. This thing is great.

How to install: Seriously takes longer to write it up than do it. Unscrew two screws on the blade guard, unscrew (CLOCKWISE) main blade screw, put on laser, screw back in (COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten!) and replace blade guard screws.

MAYBE it took me all of 15 seconds. Maybe.

The laser line is exactly to the left of the kerf. The saw blade is exactly to the right of that line. If you're a half-blind half-fingered woodworker, position the line so it's just left of your offcut... and cut.

Why did I go a year without buying this... do yourself or your loved woodworker one a favor and get one of these. This was easier to install than any of the DIY projects i've done in ten years. I could gush for another hour.

Was looking for a replacement blade about a year ago when my original Makita beam was blade started getting dull. Found the Oshlun blade on Amazon and resisted buying it at first due to the low price. I just ordered my second one after using the first one 6 days a week for 10 months. We cut large Western Red Cedar, cypress, fir and spruce beams all day long with this blade (both rips and cross cuts). This blade has never warped under heating (and we really heat this thing up some days). Good blade at any price.

What no one adresses in any reveiws for a beam saw is the fact that many saws are underpowered for blades this size.

The Oshlun blade performs well as ripping or cross-cut blade. I performed many full depth rips w/ the blade in reclaimed cedar beams. All things considered it performed like a champ. I wish the saw had more power (older style Makita beam saw) I was concerned the blade may pinch o rjam and cause a nasty kick back, or worse yet get too hot and start to wobble / wander. None of the above happened. I'm a carpenter by trade, this is my first time w/ a beam saw, so take it for what its worth - Good price and fast shipping.

My husband wanted an 80 tooth blade but as I kept searching for similar items the 120 tooth showed up and was significantly cheaper. I know cheap doesn't mean better but it has worked out great. What used to take 20 minutes of cutting with an 80 tooth blade took 5 minutes with a 120 tooth blade.

I have gotten about 50 cuts out of this blade so far. Most of them have been 45 degree cuts in 1x2x3/16" mild steel channel. It is now only starting to spark a bit, but still cutting straight lines.

This review is for the Oshlun 10" 80 tooth fine finishing blade.

I've been purchasing Oshlun blades for the past year or two without complaint so far. This blade cuts nicely when your saw is properly tuned. Another reviewer indicates that they got blade markings, where that would ultimately be a function of a saw not correctly tuned. The runout on this blade isn't bad with a maximum runout of 0.006" and an average of 0.003" which provides glue ready cuts. Ideal blade runout is 0.005" or less.

The alternating top bevel grind on the teeth works excellent with natural woods and veneered plywood. The teeth are very sharp and the blade arrived with very little machine oil present, packed in a lightly padded cardboard retail package. You should consider seek a triple chip grind blade for heavy cutting of MDF and plastics.

The saw kerf is dead on 0.126" and has well-grounded copper plugged expansion slots, making the saw blade very quiet and smooth when running. Even though this blade has a positive hook angle, I wouldn't hesitate using it in a table saw, radial arm saw, or miter saw. Just please take the time to tune your saw before you rip into some wood and life will be good.

Ok, I received this blade about a week ago and decided to replace the 60T stock blade on my Kapex for a large built in job. This required me to cross cut a LOT of 3/4 and 1/4 oak plywood. This stuff can be made a mess pretty easily with a crappy blade. The 80T did a wonderful job on the ply and solid materials. Almost no tear out/splintering on the ply and the cuts on the solid stock where beautiful. This blade cuts as well as my $150 Tenyru. Time will tell how well/long it stays sharp. Will post more info in a few weeks.

UPDATE.....been using the blade for a couple of weeks. Still sharp. The thing that sets this blade apart, and all good blades, is the ability to cut small amounts from small mouldings and leave them laying on the table rather than sending them off like a missle. This blade has not thrown anything yet! Will be purchasing another one as a back up.

Purchased to cut aluminum soffit for a residing project. It cut amazingly well and much faster and cleaner than using tin snips. I used a sled on my table saw and the cuts were clean without leaving dangerously sharp edges. I was surprised how clean it was on the thin material. It did bend the ventilation perforations slightly, but that was expected and not enough to cause any issues.

Prefect fit for the Omni dual saw. It seems in good quality. Rip thru wood and plastic like butter without any kickback like the regular sidewinder. However, it is a bit expensive for the replacement blades.

Makes a clean cut on Glu Laminated Beams. Even cuts well at long angles. Got almost 100 cuts out of the blade on 5 1/8 deep glue laminated beams before signs of dulling showed. Would recommend this to anyone cutting large glue laminated beams or timbers.

This is an excellent dado set that produces a true flat bottom dado. The number of chipper blades and shims enable very precise measurements. They are as good as dado sets costing much more.

I used this blade to cut 1/4" diamond plate. I had about eighty feet in cuts to make. At first the blade cut the metal like butter and the finish edge on the cut was smooth. The finish edge began to deteriorate with use and after cutting about sixty feet of material the cuts began to become very difficult. I tried cleaning off a buildup of aluminum on the teeth but this didn't help and I considered the blade to be worn out. I then lubricated my cuts with cutting oil and I was amazed. The blade began to cut better than my very first dry cut and the finish edge was very smooth. I wish I had lubricated all of my cuts. It would have extended the life of the blade considerably. Be careful and use eye protection because aluminum chips will be flying. I used goggles to ensure that a chip didn't get up behind my safety glasses.

Make sure you have the right saw for this type of blade. The blade is rated for max 1800rpm. This is not a standard miter saw blade!

But if you have the right saw (in my case, I used an Evolution Powertools Evo380 metal cutting non-abrasive chop saw) you're wanting to cut some 304-316 stainless for a project or product you're developing or building, have at it! It's been an excellent blade for my use case.

Picture shows cut 1/16" 316 (that's aerospace grade, harder than 304!) stainless steel being handled by bare hands immediately after cutting. Fun!

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

This blade is incredible. I just finished cutting plywood parts for two large roll around cabinets and the blade made laser smooth cuts. Just remember that when cutting expensive veneered plywood to raise your blade to its highest setting. This trick provides the least amount of tear out. I know this goes against what many of us were taught about safety and it does expose more blade. But if you are thoughtful and keep your hands in the clear the cutting result will be worth the extra effort. If your not comfortable raising the blade use tape on your cut line. Either way, this blade is worth the price and makes clean cuts.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I was skeptical about this laser especially when it arrived and I seen it was used with the package cut open and taped back together.
And I seen the other reviews about it being too thick and having to use washers to space out the guide. Witch I did not have to do.
I didn't have to modify anything at all. Just removed the stock washer/spacer that goes against the blade and put the laser in its place. The laser is thicker though by about a 1/8" at the most and closer to a 16th but it did not interfere with anything on my 12" double bevel saw, DWS779
If the speed of the saw drops as in cutting through something thick the laser starts to cut out from not spinning fast enough but your already past the point of needing it by that time
The thing I was interested in the most was how it lined up with the actual cut line but it does perfectly as it lines up exactly where it cuts to the point that after the cut it barely can be seen on the board again and goes down in the cut path.
I just wish I would have bought it long ago lol
It came with 3 watch batteries already in it and 3 spares (LR44) and I've only used it a couple days so far so I don't know how long they last yet
So there you go and now you know

I've had a Festool track saw since around 2004. It's such a great tool that continues to work like new despite the fact that I don't baby it. Given the build quality of the saw, I have little doubt that the festool blades are premium quality and probably stay sharp longer than this cheaper blade. But so far the Oshlun is performing comparably, so no regrets or reservations about having it as a backup when I send the festool blades for sharpening.

Very nicely machined. It moves and holds its position very nicely. Easy to read dial; easy to read numbers. The fractional numbering on the outside of the dial, which makes the fractions easier to see. The decimal scale on the inside of dial is more natural to look at and the smaller size is not a problem to read. Other more expensive fractional calipers I have seen are much harder to read. Very nice for the price.

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

I have a Skil table saw and not a newer model. I have a number of projects that I have wanted to do involving dado cuts. After reviewing many sites, I settled on the Oshlun stacked dado set. There were a number of reviews of Frued with trouble fitting to the arbor, I had no trouble at all with this set. Price line was another element. There are more expensive sets and lesser expensive sets. Not an Earth shattering discovery, but this one just fit my budget. I can't imagine those at twice the price being twice as good.
This set comes with 2 main 8 inch blades, 6 full body 6 tooth chipper blades (4 - 1/8, 1 - 1/16, 1 - 1/32), and an assortment of shims (8) wrapped up in a cardboard carrier. Not a fancy package, but I don't do this for a living so adequate enough for me.
I am a relative novice at this, but I was able to set up two different sized cuts in no time. Did a great job. Cuts were nice, no ridges, a really smooth bottom. A couple of practice cuts and your off and running.
For those who are just looking to get into this, you need a saw with at least 1.5 HP better with 2.0+ HP. You also need a dado inset for your saw. It took me a while to find one for my saw. And it really wasn't advertised for this blade size, but it worked. You can attempt to make your own, but I just wanted to plug and play as soon as possible. Amazon, as always, did a nice job in delivery. A nice set. Can't say much about durability as yet. Time will tell.

I put this on a Dewalt chop saw, it cuts aluminum like it's butter. Uses no effort to cut just the weight of the blade. I sprayed multipurpose lube on the blade while cutting to try to prolong the life of the blade.

I bought this blade as a replacement for my Evolution Tools Fury 3 saw. All I can saw is WOW! This blade cuts 10 times better than the blade that ships with the saw. It cuts faster, cleaner, and far smoother. It's better balanced than the original as well. I will never buy another blade from Evolution Power Tools as long as Olshun makes this blade. Buy one and you'll understand. It's easily worth 3x what it sells for.

This is an amazing saw blade for the price! I would suggest this blade to anyone with a cold cut saw. I bought one of these for a project to see how it would do on my Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw and it did better than the blade that came with the saw. I cut through 60ft. of 1/4 inch thick steel with no problem and the blade still had plenty of life in it. I only had to slow down because the saw itself got to hot to hold.
I bought 3 more of these blades after the first one, if you have a cold cut saw that uses an 8inch blade this is the blade to get. The price is great and the quality is fantastic.
This is defiantly a great buy not just for the money but for the quality.

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.