Oshlun Professional Grade Saw Blades

I was looking for a reasonably priced full-kerf blade for my 12" miter saw. I had been having issues with a big-name HATB thin-kerf blade deflecting, causing inaccuracies and in some cases actually grabbing the work. After checking out several alternatives I settled on the Oshlun as a kind of low-cost experiment mainly to see if a thicker blade would solve my problem. This one has a .134" kerf with a thick plate and no noticable runout. The results have been stunning. Besides the fact that the blade seems to cut truer with almost no drag, the cuts are clean both on top and bottom sides! We'll see if that keeps up as the blade wears but I have been delighted so far. My blade has C-3 carbide. I think the blade now comes in C-4, which would probably last longer. One thing to look out for is that the mass of this blade is greater than most, which will cause it to coast longer when shut down or put more strain on your blade brake if you have one. Oshlun has won my loyalty with a great product at a great price.

A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

I have a Skil table saw and not a newer model. I have a number of projects that I have wanted to do involving dado cuts. After reviewing many sites, I settled on the Oshlun stacked dado set. There were a number of reviews of Frued with trouble fitting to the arbor, I had no trouble at all with this set. Price line was another element. There are more expensive sets and lesser expensive sets. Not an Earth shattering discovery, but this one just fit my budget. I can't imagine those at twice the price being twice as good.
This set comes with 2 main 8 inch blades, 6 full body 6 tooth chipper blades (4 - 1/8, 1 - 1/16, 1 - 1/32), and an assortment of shims (8) wrapped up in a cardboard carrier. Not a fancy package, but I don't do this for a living so adequate enough for me.
I am a relative novice at this, but I was able to set up two different sized cuts in no time. Did a great job. Cuts were nice, no ridges, a really smooth bottom. A couple of practice cuts and your off and running.
For those who are just looking to get into this, you need a saw with at least 1.5 HP better with 2.0+ HP. You also need a dado inset for your saw. It took me a while to find one for my saw. And it really wasn't advertised for this blade size, but it worked. You can attempt to make your own, but I just wanted to plug and play as soon as possible. Amazon, as always, did a nice job in delivery. A nice set. Can't say much about durability as yet. Time will tell.

An absolutely great saw blade for cutting aluminum. Definitely spend the extra money and get some lube for the saw blade I know it sounds weird but it will keep the aluminum from gumming up in between the teeth and make each cut really easy. Without it you'll be cleaning out your saw blade with a screwdriver and the cuts will not be clean and smooth. So do yourself a favor and get the lube for the saw blade when you purchase. It will also extend the life of your blade dramatically.

After reading the great reviews, I had to get it when I saw it on sale. This is a steal at the sale price and worth every penny at the regular price. It cuts perfect joints with flat bottoms. I should have bought them sooner.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

My husband wanted an 80 tooth blade but as I kept searching for similar items the 120 tooth showed up and was significantly cheaper. I know cheap doesn't mean better but it has worked out great. What used to take 20 minutes of cutting with an 80 tooth blade took 5 minutes with a 120 tooth blade.

I bought this for my Evolution R210 CMS saw. I only use this saw for cutting metal. Used this blade to make some cuts in mild steel. It cuts the steel like butter with very few sparks. It's much better the Eolutions original blade. I can recommend this blade for sure. Due to shipping and import taxes this blade is twice it's original price but still cheaper then an Evolution Steel blade (blue series).

I bought this to cut up left over Ipe decking. That stuff is harder than the hub of hell. I am very sure on softwood even 20 years Doug fir it would cut like butter. The Ipe is too dense and the blade need more teeth to cut quickly.

Make sure you have the right saw for this type of blade. The blade is rated for max 1800rpm. This is not a standard miter saw blade!

But if you have the right saw (in my case, I used an Evolution Powertools Evo380 metal cutting non-abrasive chop saw) you're wanting to cut some 304-316 stainless for a project or product you're developing or building, have at it! It's been an excellent blade for my use case.

Picture shows cut 1/16" 316 (that's aerospace grade, harder than 304!) stainless steel being handled by bare hands immediately after cutting. Fun!

This blade makes very very smooth cuts in hardwood, softwood, and plywood, using my Harbor Freight/Chicago Electric 10" compound sliding miter saw. This saw is a bit underpowered compared to most, at only 11A. There's just a very tiny bit of splintering on the bottom and back edges, but no chipping at all. The cuts are as smooth as if sanded, as smooth as S4S finished lumber. The blade definitely runs quieter than the blade which came with the saw. And, despite having 20 more teeth, it cuts through thick material better and faster than the stock blade did, especially 4x4s.

It was extremely difficult to find a reasonably priced blade with the negative hook appropriate to a sliding compound miter saw, and they are rare at any price. I really didn't want to spend over $50, being as this is only a $100 saw! I would have preferred to spend only $25-30, but negative hooks could not be found in that range. I also went with this blade because of the full width kerf, which supposedly helps prevent blade deflection, especially on a SCMS. Some say a thin kerf makes better use of a lower powered saw, but the thick doesn't seem to be a problem for my use. Most of the blades made for SCMS, ie negative hook, are thin kerf.

I highly recommend this blade! I cut a fair amount of plywood, so the extra money seemed justified, and as I said, I could not find a negative hook blade for any less. I just wish I could get it for as little money as the Oshlun positive hook 10" blades! I'd happily settle for 60-tooth blade if it were $20 less.

Worked perfect for cutting a corian countertop to remove a dual bowl sink and install a stainless steel one. Worked well bht I could tell by the end of the cut it was tired. Great blade for the purpose and it worked well with the harbor freight Bauer brand 4.5 circular saw to do the job. For Corian it worked perfectly

Ok, I received this blade about a week ago and decided to replace the 60T stock blade on my Kapex for a large built in job. This required me to cross cut a LOT of 3/4 and 1/4 oak plywood. This stuff can be made a mess pretty easily with a crappy blade. The 80T did a wonderful job on the ply and solid materials. Almost no tear out/splintering on the ply and the cuts on the solid stock where beautiful. This blade cuts as well as my $150 Tenyru. Time will tell how well/long it stays sharp. Will post more info in a few weeks.

UPDATE.....been using the blade for a couple of weeks. Still sharp. The thing that sets this blade apart, and all good blades, is the ability to cut small amounts from small mouldings and leave them laying on the table rather than sending them off like a missle. This blade has not thrown anything yet! Will be purchasing another one as a back up.

This review is for the Oshlun 10" 80 tooth fine finishing blade.

I've been purchasing Oshlun blades for the past year or two without complaint so far. This blade cuts nicely when your saw is properly tuned. Another reviewer indicates that they got blade markings, where that would ultimately be a function of a saw not correctly tuned. The runout on this blade isn't bad with a maximum runout of 0.006" and an average of 0.003" which provides glue ready cuts. Ideal blade runout is 0.005" or less.

The alternating top bevel grind on the teeth works excellent with natural woods and veneered plywood. The teeth are very sharp and the blade arrived with very little machine oil present, packed in a lightly padded cardboard retail package. You should consider seek a triple chip grind blade for heavy cutting of MDF and plastics.

The saw kerf is dead on 0.126" and has well-grounded copper plugged expansion slots, making the saw blade very quiet and smooth when running. Even though this blade has a positive hook angle, I wouldn't hesitate using it in a table saw, radial arm saw, or miter saw. Just please take the time to tune your saw before you rip into some wood and life will be good.

Was looking at cut off saws to work some of my 1/8th aluminum stock and while researching came across this 10" non-ferrous blade. The idea of swapping the blade on my miter saw and having the convenience and accuracy of the tool appealed to me so I made the purchase. Couldn't be happier. The saw easily cut through all the aluminum I threw at it and produced exceptionally accurate smooth cuts each time. My miter saw isn't the greatest (Kobalt 10") but with this blade working non-ferrous metals was easy. For anyone doing this for the first time, recommend eye protection. The blade creates very fine metal flakes while working.

Finally, a dial caliper for the masses of woodworkers out there who care for accuracy and quality. This dial caliper is not only accurate to 1/64th of an inch, but it is also a joy to use for its simplicity and very legible dial. I highly recommend its use in any woodshop. Bravo, a fine piece of machinery. I give it five nails out of five.

I purchased this April 2015 and it's been dead for a while so I just left it on the chop saw and forgot about it. Today I went to change my blade, so I removed the laser guide and replaced the batteries. Sure enough it started working again. I was so impressed it still worked that I came here to write a review about it. In today's throw away culture it's hard to find a product that works just like new 10 years later. I probably used my miter saw at least once a week during that 10-year period, so it's been spinning on my saw for a long time.

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

Since there aren't many reviews on this blade I figured I'd give it a rating. I bought this to attach to a husqvarna 165rx clearing saw. Having previously used another carbide tipped blade (husqvarna Christmas tree attachment) and after wearing that blade out I was in search of another as rebuilding the blade alone would cost 1.5x the cost of this blade. Sharpen style blades just don't cut it so I figured I'd give this blade a try for what it costs.

I am throughly happy with this blade purchase as it mets my expectations with flying colors. I am mostly using this blade for pasture brush control (hedge, cedar, and locust). Cuts trees like a hot knife easily cutting down a 6" tree, can cut bigger with a back cut but trees get fairly tall with that diameter and could potentially fall towards you without a way to stop it due to having to hold saw. I have not hit any rocks or wire with it yet so I can't tell you how it would hold up to that but I feel like it would. If I happen to hit a rock or wire I'll report back with details if teeth fall off. Eventually I know the blade will get dull, hopefully I will cut enough trees coupled with not having to sharpen it to justify the cost and order another.

There is one thing that I am disappointed with is the blade is manufactured in China. I didn't rate it negatively for this because I feel that if it was a USA made blade it would probably be in the $80 -$100 range.

I would highly recommend this blade for a similar situation as mine. If by rare chance you have a clearing saw with a Christmas tree attachment (used for husqvarna clearing saws and allows use of 12" blade, normally only accepts 10" without attachment) that you want a blade for.

I bought these to use on my Mafell track saw when I was building my home and had a lot of richlite cladding and shelves to cut. That material is very hard on blades and after going through several Mafell blades I figured I could try these as they are much less expensive. They worked very well… durability was the same as Mafell. The kerf is a bit bigger which means I have to replace my rubber edge strip on my tracks when I go back to the Mafell blades. I haven’t tried these with wood so I can’t saw how clean they cut (Mafell blade leaves glass like finish). Anyway they are very good blades for the money.

I bought this blade because of the you tube “project farm” review (Best review channel). Understand only rated for ~1500rpm but installed on chop saw at 3300rpm and cut Aluminum, Raw Hide (Dog), PVC, and wood. Too much risk to cut anything harder but no tooth chips yet. Please take care, where leather wielding apron, face/neck shield, heavy jeans… a carbide tooth coming off at that speed can ‘hurt’ 🙂

Great metal cutting blade. I use it with my Milwaukee M18 metal circular saw. Fits perfect, stays sharp for a while..

While i was worried that i would not be satisfied by these less expensive blades, i have been happily surprised. They are a great alternative to spending top dollar for Festool blades that are frankly a bit overpriced. I'd love to see the actual cost compared to mark-up on saw blades. Using a sharp blade saves time, improves quality and pleasure of work imensly. The option of Oshlun blades is a wonderful thing about capitalism, which usually is not so nice. While i might not use them on every job, 90% of the time they do a fine job and I see no difference (besides price) from the Festool blades. Recently I used a not new 48T Oshlun blade while ripping "Hardy Plank" I did a good 10 8 foot rips of the silica concrete board. I think the blade is toast, but even during the final rip it performed more than adaquately. I continue to be impressed and pleased with these blades. I'm lookin forward to see how they sharpen, just for kicks, I'ts probabaly cheaper to toss them, but my sharpening service does a great job, so it will be a worthwhile experiment.

I was skeptical about this laser especially when it arrived and I seen it was used with the package cut open and taped back together.
And I seen the other reviews about it being too thick and having to use washers to space out the guide. Witch I did not have to do.
I didn't have to modify anything at all. Just removed the stock washer/spacer that goes against the blade and put the laser in its place. The laser is thicker though by about a 1/8" at the most and closer to a 16th but it did not interfere with anything on my 12" double bevel saw, DWS779
If the speed of the saw drops as in cutting through something thick the laser starts to cut out from not spinning fast enough but your already past the point of needing it by that time
The thing I was interested in the most was how it lined up with the actual cut line but it does perfectly as it lines up exactly where it cuts to the point that after the cut it barely can be seen on the board again and goes down in the cut path.
I just wish I would have bought it long ago lol
It came with 3 watch batteries already in it and 3 spares (LR44) and I've only used it a couple days so far so I don't know how long they last yet
So there you go and now you know

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

I mounted this on my recipricale saw and use it primarily for cutting 6061 aluminum extrusion. It works equally well on small 1X1" angle and also on larger 2X3" extrusion and cuts through it with ease. No lubricant/wax or other helper is needed on the cuts and the saw tracked just as cleanly as if it was cutting through wood What I like about this blade is the fact that it does not want to kick the part up or grab into the material so clampingon the part was only neceessary on one side. The surface finish of the cut was very similar to a semi finishing machining cut and required very minimal clean up of burrs, an added +. I have cut several hundred peices and there is no noticable depreciation or wear on the teeth and it works just as well as the first time I used it. Would recommend this for anyone needing to make quick work on aluminum cutting. Price wise this blade performed as well or better than my now retired Freud Diablo blade which cost me about $85 originally. Great value for the money and you won't find a comperable blade for less.

Quite impressed with the quality, durability, and value of this blade. I only used it to cut up to 2" x 2" square aluminum tubing and am pleased. It still seems to cut fine after dozens of cuts. That said I highly recommend this blade

I was looking for a bade to cut aluminum for a FIRST robotics team working out of my basement. My initial search through a well known industrial supplier showed blades like this starting at $250. That was pretty much a non-starter. I found this one on Amazon and read the reviews and decided to give it a try. It cuts cleanly, quietly, and quickly. We have been cutting parts for several weeks now and the blade shows no signs of dulling. It also works great on PVC pipe and wood (we used that for training purposes. I have done a lot of shop work over the years and I can say this is an excellent blade. I highly recommend this to anyone who is planning to cut aluminum on conventional shop equipment. I used this blade on a table saw.

I have had an old Makita Beam saw for years and years....this is the best blade I have used....Now it is also the first carbide tipped blade, but it sure works well. I am sawing PT fir lumber for retaining wall lagging; lots of it.....I am happy.

So I "ran over " a steel bench dog with my Festool blade... Boo hoo my bad. There goes $80. Lesson learned, I'll buy a replacement. Here's an alternative... Hmm $24 for a similar tooth blade? Why not give it a try? Well glad I did! Great cut in 12mm birch plywood. Nary a scratch on the edge and splinter free--just like the $80 Festool blade! Now to stay away from those bench dogs... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BLADE!

I got this blade to cut thin aluminum tile trim pieces because it was highly rated. When I got the blade I installed it on my chop saw the way I always install blades; with the labeled side facing out. Tried doing some cutting and the blade worked but wasn't very impressive. Then I looked more closely and noticed the rotation was backwards and I had the blade on backwards. Flipped it around so the labeling didn't show and the blade cut like a dream. It leaves an almost mirror smooth surface on cuts and I could adjust miters by trimming a hair off cuts I had already made. And it wasn't noisy the way some people had said. This blade was well worth it for me.

Purchased to cut aluminum soffit for a residing project. It cut amazingly well and much faster and cleaner than using tin snips. I used a sled on my table saw and the cuts were clean without leaving dangerously sharp edges. I was surprised how clean it was on the thin material. It did bend the ventilation perforations slightly, but that was expected and not enough to cause any issues.

This is a great blade. I’m using it on a radial arm saw. Cuts are clean and accurate. The negative hook gives me much greater control when cross cutting with the radial arm saw because the blade isn’t so aggressive while traveling through the wood. When ripping “one by” pieces of pine or plywood I don’t have to push so hard and it allows me to feed the wood through at the optimum rate. It’s much safer than using a blade that’s intended for a table saw.

This blade works very well. I use it all the time in my line of work. I cut mostly 3/8 all thread rod with it on my milwaukee 28v cordless saw. very handy when you need to shorten all thread rod when your up 20 feet off the floor and need to make a quick cut.

I was a little concerned about the brightness after reading several reviews. Ordered anyway. I have LED lights on both sides of my miter saw and the laser showed up just fine. I'm not sure about durability but if I have a problem later I'll add a new review. Hardest part of installation was Loosening the Arbor nut.

I was very pleased to find this product being offered on AMAZON. I received the blades very quickly and at a great price. I was concerned about whether the blades would fit and be of good quality. I found out I had not needed to have worried about either account.

Makes a clean cut on Glu Laminated Beams. Even cuts well at long angles. Got almost 100 cuts out of the blade on 5 1/8 deep glue laminated beams before signs of dulling showed. Would recommend this to anyone cutting large glue laminated beams or timbers.

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

This is my new favorite demo blade.

I spent a day with this blade. It cuts rough, but for demolition work that doesn't matter. It managed to cut through a few hundred deck screws, and rip up a few sheets of plywood that had been coated in 1/4" thick epoxy and fiberglass. This blade is a beast - after all that it's still perfectly sharp and hasn't taken any damage. Besides being so durable, it's really QUICK cutting.

Prior to using this, I had been doing demo work with a sawzall with demo blades. This thing lasts way longer and cuts much quicker. After putting this in an old circular saw, I barely touched the sawzall.