Oshlun Professional Grade Saw Blades

I need to cut aluminum frequently but also hate changing blades on my miter saw because it takes 35 minutes to remove all the safety gizmos before spending 10 seconds changing the blade. Using the wrong blade on a 10" saw can be VERY dangerous, and some blades made for metal pretty much burn their way through wood. With this blade, I get great cuts on aluminum, as expected. I can also cut most other materials just as clean as with other blades, just slightly slower. I'd much rather cut a piece of wood in two seconds instead of one second rather than changing blades twice.

Metal blades can be very specific, even if they look basically the same. Don't use this for steel. I have one of their steel blades, and it's also good. Similarly, if you need to cut stainless steel, buy a blade for that. It might seem like a lot of trouble and money to have so many blades, but they exist for a reason. If you're not a pro, a good blade will likely last a lifetime, or at least until you buy that CO2 laser you've always wanted.

I've been using it for a while on my old radial saw. I cannot imagine not having it. It is so dead-on accurate I can cut a piece of MDF that is wider than my blade travel by simply making one cut and then flipping the piece over and lining up the edge for a second cut in the opposite direction of travel. It is bright enough for the majoritiy of my cuts - but if it were a bit brighter I'd give it six stars!
NOTES:
Based on the one I'm using, reviews describing it as "out of balance" seem nonsensical.
It's ready to go out of the package. The included batteries are spares.
I used a short piece of stiff wire (brazing rod) to line up the laser hole between two teeth on my blade and it worked perfectly on the first try.

I'm just a hobbyist woodworker, but I prefer quality tools - especially if they aren't too expensive. This dado set fits that description perfectly. Smooth, clean, flat bottom dados with no tear out. My first project with this set was in red oak, and I don't know how the set could have performed any better. Years ago, I bought an adjustable dado set - two blades mounted on a center hub that would let you tilt the blades in or out to change the width of you dado. Total junk. Literally could not make a flat bottom due to the design. Don't know if that type of dado set is still made, but if you see one, avoid it at all costs. I selected this Oshlun set because I thought the full blade multi-tooth chippers and the high tooth count on the outside blades would give a cleaner cut than the sets with fewer teeth and wing chippers with only two teeth. Don't know if that's true, but I am completely happy with the results I got with this Oshlun set. No regrets spending the money at all. The only negative is the advertised storage / carry case is simply a cardboard box with foam cutouts. Still a 5 star product.

I have the Makita XSC04Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 5-7/8" Metal Cutting Saw. This 5 3/8 blade's cut-depth is more than adequate for my needs. I've been doing 90 and 45-degree cuts (not bevels) through 3 x 3 x 3/8 inch angle iron. So far, about 5 ft of cuts, and the blade is still working fine. This compares very well with the Makita blade that came with my saw - for half the price. I think this Oshlun blade cuts a little faster than the Makita. Definitely recommend.

Can't say what the lifespan of this blade will be, but on our Grizzly 10" table saw this blade cut several 3/4" thick panels of extremely dense plastic being used for public restroom stall partitions. I don't know what type plastic this was, but the stuff is so heavy that it took two of my adult male construction crewmen to move 1 sheet. One man couldn't move one. VERY heavy and dense. This blade cut it like butter. I don't see how you can beat that for the very reasonable price of this blade.

Bought this blade for cutting 1/4" black ABS. I'm using it with a Sears Craftsman 10" Table saw and it cuts flawlessly. Nice clean cuts no filing needed. That's all I've got to say. I'm going to see if they make a smaller size for my circular saw.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

I have an old 8" table saw, and NOBODY stocks, or even sells- that size, I shopped around to all the hardware and hardware box/super stores, (you know the twi I mean), and even Grainger could not get them!
When I went online, this was the only company that had 8" blades at a decent price, I found a couple others at 2 to 3 times the cost.
It cuts great, enough so that I got a 7.5" blade for my circular saw!

I've just installed it on my DeWalt DWS 782, so I can't speak to longevity. However, it works and the laser line is right on the money. Bonus points for including extra batteries. Also, the hardest part of installing it was the process I would normally have to follow for changing the blade on my saw. Lastly, make sure you tighten the bolt on the blade properly. I thought I tightened it enough without ham handing it, but once the blade brake turned on the blade broke most and kept spinning.

My miter saw is one of my favorite saws. It is so versatile. One thing that I don’t like about it though is it doesn’t have an LED light like some of the newer models do. I tried to find one that works with my saw but there are none. I was watching a woodworking video and the guy doing the video had one of these. So , I decided to buy one.

When I received the package it included the laser guide and three small watch type batteries. When I opened the back of the guide to install the batteries I was pleasantly surprised that batteries were already installed. So the three batteries are extra batteries. That was a nice touch by the manufacturer.

Connect to my saw was very simple. As the blade sounds the laser guide automatically turns on and emits a laser that creates a line on what you are cutting. The cut line matched up perfectly with the laser. One thing I knew ahead of time but not everyone might know before using one of these laser guides is that the saw blade needs to be spinning in order for the guide to work. An LED light always shines and casts a shadow line on the object you are cutting whether the blade is spinning or not. But for this laser guide you need to engage the blade and have it spinning in order for the laser to create a cut line. You can keep the blade high enough and safely out of the way of any adjustments you may need to make to your piece being cut. I usually spin, stop the blade, adjust, spin the blade again and repeat the process if necessary until its is exactly where yo want it to be. I know my saw well enough that I usually put the piece of wood down in the right spot or close to it most of the time and just need to spin the blade once to make some minor adjustments.

I don’t have the money yet to buy a fancier saw with an LED light so until that happens I’m gong to keep using this laser guide as it works well.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

This is an amazing saw blade for the price! I would suggest this blade to anyone with a cold cut saw. I bought one of these for a project to see how it would do on my Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw and it did better than the blade that came with the saw. I cut through 60ft. of 1/4 inch thick steel with no problem and the blade still had plenty of life in it. I only had to slow down because the saw itself got to hot to hold.
I bought 3 more of these blades after the first one, if you have a cold cut saw that uses an 8inch blade this is the blade to get. The price is great and the quality is fantastic.
This is defiantly a great buy not just for the money but for the quality.

Makes a clean cut on Glu Laminated Beams. Even cuts well at long angles. Got almost 100 cuts out of the blade on 5 1/8 deep glue laminated beams before signs of dulling showed. Would recommend this to anyone cutting large glue laminated beams or timbers.

Never seen a saw with the primary purpose of cutting plastics, but as these become more and more common, I'm glad someone make a proper blade. Cuts well through Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly(Ethylene) and Poly(Formaldehyde) / Poly(Oxymethanal). As those are two of the most physically impressive thermoplastics, I'm sure it'll cut through everything else just fine. As long as you push the plastic through at a reasonable speed, you'll get a clean edge with no melt deformation.

I recently purchased the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide for my miter saw, and I must say that it has been a game-changer for my woodworking projects. This laser guide has significantly improved the accuracy and precision of my cuts, making my work much more efficient and professional-looking.

The installation of the laser guide was straightforward and hassle-free. It fit perfectly on my miter saw and the alignment was easy to adjust to ensure that the laser line was accurate with my saw blade. Once installed, the laser guide provided a clear, bright line that helped me visualize exactly where my cuts would land, resulting in precise and clean cuts every time.

I particularly appreciate the portability of this laser guide. It is compact and lightweight, making it easy to transport and use on different job sites or workstations. The durability of the guide is also impressive, as it has held up well to regular use and has not required any adjustments or maintenance since I installed it.

Overall, the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide has exceeded my expectations and has become an essential tool in my woodworking arsenal. I highly recommend this laser guide to anyone looking to enhance the accuracy and efficiency of their miter or portable saw cuts. It is a small investment that yields significant improvements in the quality of your work.

I purchased this April 2015 and it's been dead for a while so I just left it on the chop saw and forgot about it. Today I went to change my blade, so I removed the laser guide and replaced the batteries. Sure enough it started working again. I was so impressed it still worked that I came here to write a review about it. In today's throw away culture it's hard to find a product that works just like new 10 years later. I probably used my miter saw at least once a week during that 10-year period, so it's been spinning on my saw for a long time.

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

We've used these as alternative to the more expensive brands. These blades are an excellent value. Last as long as the name-brand blades. We buy in bulk and use these daily in our work.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

Oshlun makes the best saw blades I’ve ever used!!! I use this 60 tooth on my miter saw and get super clean cuts in all kinds of wood! I have an Oshlun 50 tooth blade in my table saw for general cutting work and it handles everything just fine!! Even hen I cut plywood I don’t get much chip out.

I was skeptical about this laser especially when it arrived and I seen it was used with the package cut open and taped back together.
And I seen the other reviews about it being too thick and having to use washers to space out the guide. Witch I did not have to do.
I didn't have to modify anything at all. Just removed the stock washer/spacer that goes against the blade and put the laser in its place. The laser is thicker though by about a 1/8" at the most and closer to a 16th but it did not interfere with anything on my 12" double bevel saw, DWS779
If the speed of the saw drops as in cutting through something thick the laser starts to cut out from not spinning fast enough but your already past the point of needing it by that time
The thing I was interested in the most was how it lined up with the actual cut line but it does perfectly as it lines up exactly where it cuts to the point that after the cut it barely can be seen on the board again and goes down in the cut path.
I just wish I would have bought it long ago lol
It came with 3 watch batteries already in it and 3 spares (LR44) and I've only used it a couple days so far so I don't know how long they last yet
So there you go and now you know

I used to blade on my Makita SPK6000 Rail saw. It cuts just as good as the Makita blade. I was doing rip and cross cuts in Cherry veneered onto MDF, Cherry Ply and Birch Ply....all cuts were super clean. Only downside is the Makita is a 165mm blade stock...so you loose 2.5mm of cutting depth, not much of a down side when you see this blade is half the cost.

Never using a stacked dado set before, I relied mostly on the reviews of the people here on Amazon (as I do for most of my purchases). Professional reviews from magazines or websites are nice, but I find that it's better to hear the feedback from actual Average Joe users. That said, it was a difficult decision choosing between the Oshlun and Freud sets, but after reading the reviews, I decided to spend a little less and go for the Oshlun set.

A big thing I keep reading in the reviews is how people feel the supplied box is just god awful and deduct a point or two for it. First off, I didn't spend $65 (6-inch set) for a cardboard box, I spent that much on the product inside. With that being said, and considering what people were saying about the box, I was really expecting something with a thickness less than a cereal box to be what held the dado set, but to my surprise, the box is actually very sturdy. It's also really nice that individual styrofoam cutouts were made to separate the saw blades so that they don't contact each other and chip the carbide tips. I plan on using the box as a long term storage piece for the time being until a time comes when I may need to build a wooden case for the set, but even then I'll use the original foam inserts for extra protection.

Aside from that, the blades cut a very smooth and flat bottom with very little chipout on the ends. The scoring was a little bit deeper than I had thought it would be initially, but it's not enough for me to worry about or deduct stars for. It hasn't done anything to lessen the quality of glue ups in my cuts, but if it had there's still 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out in a few strokes.

Overall I am very pleased with this set. I've found it incredibly easy to change the setup and the included chart for sizes is really nice as well. I have no regrets about the purchase.

I bought this only intending to cut sheet metal, which it does wonderfully well on my Dewalt track saw. I needed to cut a piece of 1/4" plate and was preparing to use my plasma cutter, but thought I'd give the track saw with Oshlun metal cutting blade a try. It worked! Had a go slow, but gave a nice clean cut, with a much better finish than what I'd get from the plasma cutter.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.
Remember, slow and steady.

I was a little concerned about the brightness after reading several reviews. Ordered anyway. I have LED lights on both sides of my miter saw and the laser showed up just fine. I'm not sure about durability but if I have a problem later I'll add a new review. Hardest part of installation was Loosening the Arbor nut.

Up to this point, I have only used friction and abrasive blades to cut steel. I was skeptical of a blade that looks just like your standard wood blade would work well and could last. But I have been very happy with the speed and smoothness of the cuts, and so far, the blade seems to have remained quite sharp. I've only cut about four 1/2" dia. bolts and a dozen or so 1/2" rebar, so it's still a little early to tell how long it will remain sharp. But it has saved me a lot of time and has kept the metal much cooler than with other blade types. I'm very happy with it so far.

Wow... just, wow! I needed a way to cut aluminum angle stock with my table saw for a project I was working on, and this blade was the best option that I could find. Given the relatively low price, I wasn't sure what level of quality I could expect, but I really couldn't justify buying a more expensive blade for a single project. Fortunately, I didn't have to. When I tried it on a piece of scrap aluminum stock, the cut was excellent - smooth and clean, with very minimal burring. Even better, the blade cut through the light aluminum bar without any effort or binding. Nice! I cut the angle stock for my project and then found that with a blade that can cut soft metal so well, I had other projects that were suddenly practical. I've used the blade on aluminum, soft brass and hardwood so far, all with excellent results. This blade isn't inexpensive, but it's a bargain at the price if you need to cut softer metals and/or to make nice, smooth cuts on hardwood planks.

Listen up guys. I was looking for a blade that would cut aluminum profiles and work on a Dewalt chop saw running at 2800RPM so I emailed the manufacturer and got an immediate positive reply about this blade. LOOK NO FURTHER. This blade cuts aluminium clean and fast. No Burrs.
Buy this with your eyes closed but make sure they are open when using it.

So I "ran over " a steel bench dog with my Festool blade... Boo hoo my bad. There goes $80. Lesson learned, I'll buy a replacement. Here's an alternative... Hmm $24 for a similar tooth blade? Why not give it a try? Well glad I did! Great cut in 12mm birch plywood. Nary a scratch on the edge and splinter free--just like the $80 Festool blade! Now to stay away from those bench dogs... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BLADE!

I bought this blade to cut a hole in my work bench to install a tail vise. When I built the bench top years ago I foolishly used screws to join the slats together, so I knew it was a minefield. I didn't want to risk ruining my Festool blade, so I figured buying the less-expensive Oshlun blade was worth a shot. The Oshlun blade made a smooth, effortless cut in the wood bench top--almost as smooth as the Festool blade even though it's not advertised as a wood-cutting blade. I did hit a couple of the screws, and except for a few sparks, the blade went through them like they weren't there. I may never have to use this blade again, but this one use was worth the price I paid for it.

It's a good value. Of course it's made in China. Be sure to order a lube stick to use with it. If you are cutting thinner material like angle or box tubing, get the 120 Tooth. If you are cutting heavier bar stock, large rounds, get the 80 tooth. I ran the 120 tooth on some 3"x4" 7075 bar stock and it wanted to plug up even with plenty of lube.

I bought this blade to install 320 square feet of laminate flooring. I bought nice 12mm laminate with the attached pad, so it was a nice thick laminate. I put this blade on my compound miter saw, and it sliced through the laminate like butter. There was no chipping, no burning, and the blade still seemed sharp even after we were done installing the floor. I saved it in case I want to use it again! I highly recommend this product.

This is my first DADO stack, I'm glad I didn't invest money on a larger one because this will easily hit any depth I'll need to make. It also goes wider than my 7941 supports (at 23/32" I can still use the arbor nut, I haven't tried going wider yet)

After some of the comments on other reviews, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the floor it leaves. Seemed extremely flat to me.

My only (minor) complaint is that I really wish the shims had slightly larger holes for the arbor. They are only a little hard to put on, but extremely hard to take off. I preferred to nudge my fence rather than try to go back and add another shim, but this time I wasn't doing a lot of repeated cuts. If I need to set up an exact width I anticipate a bit of annoyance.

These blades do the job, last longer than most and are excellent value for the $$$

I am using this blade on my chop saw to cut 1" biscuits out of hickory logs (I use them in my BBQ pit). This is an aggressive blade and it cuts through the hickory like it's butter. This is NOT the recommended use for the blade but it is the perfect solution for me. I can see how this blade would work well in a rescue operation - something it's actually designed to be used for.

Purchased this blade to cut some aluminum deck railing. Was afraid that I was going to have to cut with a hacksaw. My buddy recommended an aluminum cutting blade (which I had never heard of) for my compound miter saw. I also bought blade lube/wax as recommended. I was leary about cutting expensive railing this way. This blade cut like butter with smooth, precise cuts. It made the job easy, almost pleasurable. Glad that I used it.

I've been using these for over a year nearly every day. Great product for price, I use it for woodworking and general measurements, so up to 64th (128ths if you read between the lines) and hundredths of an inch is perfect. The mechanism works really well so if I need to adjust it by as little as a thousand the of an inch I can and it won't scoot over or under.

Feels really well made, even after a year none of the components have any signs of damage or rust and no threads have been stripped by careless over tightening, which has happened on more expensive calipers than these. It's also fairly easy to disassemble and remove the dust that builds up, the only real complaint I have is the foam in the case started to separate, fortunately a little glue fixed it.

However, If you're doing machining work I would recommend something g that reads thousands of an inch, I have a more expensive calipers I keep exclusively for machining, but this is my favorite one, I am not scared if it drops, or someone steals it at a job sight as I can easily afford another.

I was extremely skeptical about using my Festool track saw to cut aluminum sheets. I was afraid aluminum would somehow wreck the saw and the track. I was wrong it works great. Perfectly straight cuts with very little burring. It did no damage to my saw or track, not even to the sacrificial nylon strip on the track. I used this blade to cut up two 4X10 sheets of .125" aluminum without a problem. I did not notice a decrease in performance at any point and the blade still appears to be razor sharp. Although I cannot compare it directly to Festool's version my opinion is that it would probably hold hold up just as well while at a fraction of the price.

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

Had mine about 3 years now. Use it all the time in my woodshop. Never had any problems with it. Works smooth, zeros in and keeps zero. I have noticed that occasionally the zero is off by a tiny, tiny bit, say half the width of the needle. I read in the company's description above that accuracy is +/- .001, so when I see it off zero, that tiny bit probably is .001. So mine is as accurate as described. The metal is nothing fancy, but it is smooth and machined well. Everything fits well and works. I am an avid woodworker. I use it for thickness planing, some joint work , measure the depth of a hole or groove, width of a groove, inside measurements, etc... The dial is easy to read and is in fractions, which I use. So no math involved. The fraction marks are in 64th's, you can also easily read between the marks to 128th's. If I cut a joint to 128th's of an inch you know it is a very good day in the shop indeed !!! Realistically if you are looking to buy one for very fine tolerances for fitting metal parts together or building machinery then you might want to go way up in price range. It's great for wood, the wood probably will move a 128th mark on a humid day anyway. I prefer a dial then a digital. I've read that a digital can round a measurement up if it falls between digits, that it uses energy when off, so batteries get used up. A dial lets you see the measurement when between digits or markings, so I know if just one more swipe of the plane will put it where I want it. I don't think you can buy more accuracy at this price range. For working wood I don't know why you would need expensive accuracy as the wood will move fine increments across it's grain overnight, just laying in your shop. Many woodworkers work down to a 32th of an inch in accuracy. So to be able to see a 128th is very close measuring for woodwork.

Bought this to fabricate display from 4mm acrylic sheet. Cut well without chipping. Edges needed only a little sanding and then time on a buffing wheel gave nicely polished edges. Blade is good value and gave very good results.

I have a Skil table saw and not a newer model. I have a number of projects that I have wanted to do involving dado cuts. After reviewing many sites, I settled on the Oshlun stacked dado set. There were a number of reviews of Frued with trouble fitting to the arbor, I had no trouble at all with this set. Price line was another element. There are more expensive sets and lesser expensive sets. Not an Earth shattering discovery, but this one just fit my budget. I can't imagine those at twice the price being twice as good.
This set comes with 2 main 8 inch blades, 6 full body 6 tooth chipper blades (4 - 1/8, 1 - 1/16, 1 - 1/32), and an assortment of shims (8) wrapped up in a cardboard carrier. Not a fancy package, but I don't do this for a living so adequate enough for me.
I am a relative novice at this, but I was able to set up two different sized cuts in no time. Did a great job. Cuts were nice, no ridges, a really smooth bottom. A couple of practice cuts and your off and running.
For those who are just looking to get into this, you need a saw with at least 1.5 HP better with 2.0+ HP. You also need a dado inset for your saw. It took me a while to find one for my saw. And it really wasn't advertised for this blade size, but it worked. You can attempt to make your own, but I just wanted to plug and play as soon as possible. Amazon, as always, did a nice job in delivery. A nice set. Can't say much about durability as yet. Time will tell.

This dado set was on my Christmas list - and Santa delivered! I researched quite a bit and narrowed it down the the entry level Orange, Freud, and the Oshlun. The Oshlun won out primarily due to the low price point. Many woodworking forums indicated the quality was comparable to the more costly competition. I'm not a tool snob and don't really care if my tools are made in Asia, Germany, or on the moon, as long as they last and function as intended. I've used the blade several times now, cutting 3/4 slots with and against the grain in softwood. So far I'm impressed. I haven't used the competition, so I can't comment on how it compares. I have a large saw with a powerful 240v motor, so I can't comment on how practical this dado would be in a small table saw.

Pros: High tooth count, decent manual, smooth cut, flat bottom (see note about edge scoring) and big chippers

Con: Box - many dados come in a box that doubles as a storage case, not this one. The cardboard and foam is adequate for shipping, but not suitable for storing.

Would I recommend this to a friend? Yes

Note: All dados claim to leave a flat bottom. That does not mean that the entire bottom of the cut is actually flat. It does mean that the bottom will be flat except for a fine score at each edge of the cut. Each edge of the cut will leave a very fine score line to minimize tear out. If the cut is just one pass, the bottom looks perfectly flat, the score lines are quite a non-issue and difficult to see. However, if used in multiple passes to remove larger amounts of material, such as in making tenons or larger slots, the outside edges of each cut will leave a fine line that is easily seen. Don't confuse "flat bottom" advertising to indicate a true flat bottom and smooth cut. A truly flat bottom cut would likely come with a bit of tear out. If you absolutely must have a true flat bottom, stick to a router.

Great price and seem to last as long as the $8 ea ones from Home Depot and Lowes. Using these on a Porter Cable recip tool.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

If you're looking for the right blade to cut 8020 aluminium t slot, you can't go wrong with this blade. That's what I bought it for, and it has worked perfectly on my table saw. Just be sure to use some blade butter or some sort of wax or lubricant, and you'll get nice clean burr free cuts. I've used it on the 15 series 1515 and 1530 regular, lite, and ultra-lite profiles without issue.

Cuts through metal like butter! I installed this blade on my Evolution Rage2 saw and it works flawlessly. Having recently upgraded to the Rage2 from an abrasive saw (NEVER again) the difference is amazing. No abrasive/metal dust everywhere, you get small metal shavings, but they are much easier to clean up and next to no sparks. The cut is smooth, clean, and accurate. No dross to clean up like with the abrasive saw.

Be mindful though that you rate of cut and amount of downward pressure must be carefully monitored. You should apply steady, LIGHT pressure, and let the blade do it's work. If you push too hard/fast you'll kill the blade. I expect this blade to last quite a while before needing to be resharpened ($20 at local shop). HIGHLY recommended!!!

Bosch CM10GD dual-bevel miter saw owner. If you purchase it on AMZ you can get the preinstalled laser guide for $80 more or without. I chose without, and after a year figured I'd spend the $20 on the separate module. This thing is great.

How to install: Seriously takes longer to write it up than do it. Unscrew two screws on the blade guard, unscrew (CLOCKWISE) main blade screw, put on laser, screw back in (COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten!) and replace blade guard screws.

MAYBE it took me all of 15 seconds. Maybe.

The laser line is exactly to the left of the kerf. The saw blade is exactly to the right of that line. If you're a half-blind half-fingered woodworker, position the line so it's just left of your offcut... and cut.

Why did I go a year without buying this... do yourself or your loved woodworker one a favor and get one of these. This was easier to install than any of the DIY projects i've done in ten years. I could gush for another hour.

After reading the great reviews, I had to get it when I saw it on sale. This is a steal at the sale price and worth every penny at the regular price. It cuts perfect joints with flat bottoms. I should have bought them sooner.

I bought this for my Evolution R210 CMS saw. I only use this saw for cutting metal. Used this blade to make some cuts in mild steel. It cuts the steel like butter with very few sparks. It's much better the Eolutions original blade. I can recommend this blade for sure. Due to shipping and import taxes this blade is twice it's original price but still cheaper then an Evolution Steel blade (blue series).

Finally, a dial caliper for the masses of woodworkers out there who care for accuracy and quality. This dial caliper is not only accurate to 1/64th of an inch, but it is also a joy to use for its simplicity and very legible dial. I highly recommend its use in any woodshop. Bravo, a fine piece of machinery. I give it five nails out of five.

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

Im a finish carpenter. I use my table saw a couple days a week. I had this blade on my saw for a little over a year. I figured that out from my order history here on Amazon. That equates to thousands of rips. Oak, mahogany, pine, poplar, mdf, pvc, birch plywood, cdx, doug fir, treated... everything. Ill cut free hand and sometimes put a little pressure on the saw. Maybe cute through a nail by mistake. It never skipped a beat. I took it off today. It wasnt missing a single carbide. There wasnt even a chipped carbide. I didnt take it off because i thought it needed to be changed. I just had a new one so i said what the hell. Anyway. Dont buy a different blade. Buy this one.

We had purchased one of the Rage Saws, which are absolutely terrific in every way. However the replacement blades are expensive from Rage, and not easy to purchase locally. This Oshlun 10" Blade was deliberately designed to be compatible with the Rage Saws. Having a 1" Bore and Carbide Teeth, ground to provide a standard "triple chip type of cut", it is a perfect replacement for the Rage Steel Cutting Blade.

The blade cuts as well as any other quality brand blade, and at a far less cost.

I have found this dado set to be of very high quality and adaptable to many cutting widths. The cuts are smooth and the depths are even due to the relatively many carbide teeth. I was justified in the expense of the purchase compared with less expensive makes and models. I can sincerely recommend this dado set.

Pros - Cuts anything, Clean cuts, Less Mess than abrasive blade, Durable, Seems to cut faster than abrasive blade, Does not get aluminum stuck between teeth like my aluminum cutting blade (tougher relative of wood blade)
Cons - Expensive but worth the cost for me, Heats metal to Red just like abrasive blade (at high RPM 3,900), Loud - you need hearing protection with any chop saw
I have not been careful with this blade and after 3 years not a single issue. I have cut a lot of 1" stainless bar, 1/4" stainless plate, and many easier materials like aluminum and cuts are clean. I put this blade in a Bosch 3814 14-Inch Abrasive Cut-Off Machine (15 Amps, 3,900 RPM) and I only wish I had a low RPM dry-cut saw to put it on. I really like this blade! Would buy again.

With all those teeth is makes very smooth cuts. I'm working with red oak at the moment and this blade is doing exactly what I wanted it to do. The cross cuts are very good and I am very satisfied with the results. I've only had it for a couple weeks and so far it's not lost any teeth yet but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

Great metal cutting blade. I use it with my Milwaukee M18 metal circular saw. Fits perfect, stays sharp for a while..

This is only a short term review as this blade has not seen a lot of use. It is installed in my DeWalt metal cutting saw. Cuts on aluminum tubing, flat bar, and angle are fairly clean and easy, leaving only small bits of scale on the tubing ends. I applied lubricating wax to the blade prior to using it and during the cutting process. There appears to be no aluminum residue build up after doing this.

I'm an industrial electrician that uses M12 for my everyday tools. I bought an M12 Fuel Circular Saw 2530-20 specifically because I wanted to try to cut metal with it. The Milwaukee blade is half the price of the saw, so I wanted to try something less expensive.

This thing cuts like butter! Cable Tray, Strut, DIN rail, 3/8 mild steel plate, you name it. I'm VERY happy. I've done quite a few cuts and it doesn't seem to be slowing down, but I picked up a standby blade for when I finally bite off more than I can chew.

Wear a FACE SHIELD with this thing, she throws shrapnel like no other. I was only wearing safety glasses and a piece of metal bounced off my cheek, hit the glasses and then hit my eyeball. Had to go to the optometrist and everything, I had a burn and needed to take eyedrops for a week, luckily my vision came back.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.

I have never used a saw blade designed specifically for plastic before so I wasn't sure what to expect but this blade goes through plexiglass like butter. It cuts 1/8" and 1/4" thick sheets leaving a decent edge ready for 220-400 grit sanding. No nicks, cracks, chipping or melting. If you need to cut plastic this blade will do the job.