What no one adresses in any reveiws for a beam saw is the fact that many saws are underpowered for blades this size.

The Oshlun blade performs well as ripping or cross-cut blade. I performed many full depth rips w/ the blade in reclaimed cedar beams. All things considered it performed like a champ. I wish the saw had more power (older style Makita beam saw) I was concerned the blade may pinch o rjam and cause a nasty kick back, or worse yet get too hot and start to wobble / wander. None of the above happened. I'm a carpenter by trade, this is my first time w/ a beam saw, so take it for what its worth - Good price and fast shipping.

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

Never seen a saw with the primary purpose of cutting plastics, but as these become more and more common, I'm glad someone make a proper blade. Cuts well through Ultra-High Molecular Weight Poly(Ethylene) and Poly(Formaldehyde) / Poly(Oxymethanal). As those are two of the most physically impressive thermoplastics, I'm sure it'll cut through everything else just fine. As long as you push the plastic through at a reasonable speed, you'll get a clean edge with no melt deformation.

I own two other dado sets one being a Forest dado king and the other one is a Freud SD608 I am quite disappointed in the Forest set I have the Freud on a radial arm saw just to dado 2x4s for making shop carts. I had read some reviews on the Oshlun one stated that it was a bit tight to get on the arbor I own an older Delta cabinet saw and have no problems. The cuts in my opinion are amazing compared to my other sets and for the price you can't beat it. I especially love the full size chippers makes a world of difference. Thanks so much for a wonderful product.
Don

I'm an industrial electrician that uses M12 for my everyday tools. I bought an M12 Fuel Circular Saw 2530-20 specifically because I wanted to try to cut metal with it. The Milwaukee blade is half the price of the saw, so I wanted to try something less expensive.

This thing cuts like butter! Cable Tray, Strut, DIN rail, 3/8 mild steel plate, you name it. I'm VERY happy. I've done quite a few cuts and it doesn't seem to be slowing down, but I picked up a standby blade for when I finally bite off more than I can chew.

Wear a FACE SHIELD with this thing, she throws shrapnel like no other. I was only wearing safety glasses and a piece of metal bounced off my cheek, hit the glasses and then hit my eyeball. Had to go to the optometrist and everything, I had a burn and needed to take eyedrops for a week, luckily my vision came back.

As a complete novice woodworker, I watched YouTube videos of people doing amazing and easy finger joints with dado stacks. Most said for basic work you don't need to buy a really expensive set.

Well, maybe you don't, but do not go the cheapest set your local store has. Get these instead.

I bought a Skil brand dado stack for 40 bucks at a local store. I made about 5 attempts at notches. I adjusted them, I tried every blade they gave me. All the cuts were horribly uneven, had a lot of blowout in the back, and I was extremely disappointed with them. I uploaded pictures of the best ones.

I then decided to go with suggestions on these reviews and give these a shot, for not much more than my terrible Skil experience. I got them today, tossed them on, and made a cut (I'm just using a miter gauge and a clamp for the test cuts).

I was amazed. It was a lazy cut, I'm not using a sled like I normally would, I'm not even using a zero clearance throat plate. Just a miter gauge. And the cut was near perfect and uniform. I uploaded several pictures.

There is no blowout the back, and in fact I can't even tell which side I cut from just by looking at it.

While I'm sure these aren't as precision as a much much more expensive set, for the relatively cheap price these are very worth it. Get them and don't waste your time with skil.

Theses blades are incredible and when used properly work as good as any fine wood chop or miter saw. I bought one and one of my sub contractors, without permission, use it on a job site and bummed it up, so I bought another. No one get's to use it now that is not trained in it's usage.
Still going strong after several jobs and just as clean a cut as the first.

Excellent tool. Mounted on a Chicago Electric, 6", cut off saw (9K rpm-no load). Cut through 1 1/4" x 1 1/2", 6061 aluminum bar stock with ease. With only mild pressure, the aluminum chafe flew. Gone in 30 seconds.

Using this on a Makita demo saw. Had a cheaper(McGills Warehouse) blade with 80 teeth on it. The McGills blade heated up and warped the blade plate while cutting so it wasn't much use. Fewer teeth on this blade and the way the carbide attaches(big shoulder on the plate behind the carbide) will make this blade much more durable and usable. Haven't seen any blade deflection yet but there's no wood sap build up on it yet. Cuts fast, doesn't jump or bounce much(use light pressure with the low tooth count as it cuts very aggressively).

Bosch CM10GD dual-bevel miter saw owner. If you purchase it on AMZ you can get the preinstalled laser guide for $80 more or without. I chose without, and after a year figured I'd spend the $20 on the separate module. This thing is great.

How to install: Seriously takes longer to write it up than do it. Unscrew two screws on the blade guard, unscrew (CLOCKWISE) main blade screw, put on laser, screw back in (COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten!) and replace blade guard screws.

MAYBE it took me all of 15 seconds. Maybe.

The laser line is exactly to the left of the kerf. The saw blade is exactly to the right of that line. If you're a half-blind half-fingered woodworker, position the line so it's just left of your offcut... and cut.

Why did I go a year without buying this... do yourself or your loved woodworker one a favor and get one of these. This was easier to install than any of the DIY projects i've done in ten years. I could gush for another hour.

Inherited a radial arm saw. Read the manual and watched the on line vids and got the hell scared out of me and almost put it to the curb as being far too dangerous to use. Turns out, there are specific blades for these saws which minimize the grab of the blade on the wood but are NOT the same blades for for your chop or table saw, even though at first glance they look the same. I initially balked at paying 4-5 times the price of one of those blades for this "right" one, but factored in how versatile the saw could be and the cost of a trip to the local emergency room should the saw sling back on me....and bought one. Smartest decision ive made all month. With the addition of a bushing on the arbor, the blade fit my radial arm saw great and the cuts are smooth. The negative camber design (what sets them apart from other, regular saw blades used on other saws) is what keeps the blade from being too aggressive- essentually keeping it from biting off more than it can chew, and skating up and over the board, or suddenly yanking the board (and potentionally parts of my body) through when ripping. Used this on plywood, mdf, ash and cedar so far, does what it should, I have my fingers and the blade is still sharp.

I installed this blade in my Milwaukee abrasive chop saw. I carefully looked at the blade speed and determined this would match up. This blade makes perfect, clean cuts in extruded aluminum (80/20 type material). The only drawback i see when using this in an abrasive saw is the time to get the blade up to speed and slow down after cuts. Be careful. Use plenty of blade lubricant as well.

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

Great price and good product, As a contractor these do not last long. Everyday usage cutting nails, copper, gyroc and wood. But the blades do the job needed.

My dewalt track saw was wandering, after aligning the resharpened stock blade perfectly parallel, it was still binding in thick hardwoods. I’m glad I bought this blade instead of throwing my saw in the ocean, because it cuts better than ever. It’s a bit thicker than the stock blade which is a good thing, made a decent clean cut in 1-1/2” thick sycamore with zero burn marks.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

Bought this blade to cut 1/8" thick rectangular tubing for a project I'm making. I got about 50+ cuts on it now and seems to wearing out just a tad now. I could not tell the difference between this blade and the Milwaukee metal blade and this blade is a lot cheaper.

Works great so far. Who needs a $300 Milwaukee metal cutting saw when I can just put a $30 blade on a ghetto saw? I should take this to work just for the lolz.

This dado set was on my Christmas list - and Santa delivered! I researched quite a bit and narrowed it down the the entry level Orange, Freud, and the Oshlun. The Oshlun won out primarily due to the low price point. Many woodworking forums indicated the quality was comparable to the more costly competition. I'm not a tool snob and don't really care if my tools are made in Asia, Germany, or on the moon, as long as they last and function as intended. I've used the blade several times now, cutting 3/4 slots with and against the grain in softwood. So far I'm impressed. I haven't used the competition, so I can't comment on how it compares. I have a large saw with a powerful 240v motor, so I can't comment on how practical this dado would be in a small table saw.

Pros: High tooth count, decent manual, smooth cut, flat bottom (see note about edge scoring) and big chippers

Con: Box - many dados come in a box that doubles as a storage case, not this one. The cardboard and foam is adequate for shipping, but not suitable for storing.

Would I recommend this to a friend? Yes

Note: All dados claim to leave a flat bottom. That does not mean that the entire bottom of the cut is actually flat. It does mean that the bottom will be flat except for a fine score at each edge of the cut. Each edge of the cut will leave a very fine score line to minimize tear out. If the cut is just one pass, the bottom looks perfectly flat, the score lines are quite a non-issue and difficult to see. However, if used in multiple passes to remove larger amounts of material, such as in making tenons or larger slots, the outside edges of each cut will leave a fine line that is easily seen. Don't confuse "flat bottom" advertising to indicate a true flat bottom and smooth cut. A truly flat bottom cut would likely come with a bit of tear out. If you absolutely must have a true flat bottom, stick to a router.

I use this in a Rage 3 saw by Evolution. Works very well. Cuts very similar to other TCT (dry cut cold saw) I have. I can't speak to longevity as I have only made a hand full of cuts so far, but overall it works exactly as expected. I think you'd be foolish to try to put this blade in a 5k rpm wood saw and think you're going to get nice cuts in steel. These blades are intended for steel saws that have blade RPMs in the 2k range. When you have this in the correct saw it will cut mild steel like butter.

The blades can cut either a 1/4" or a 3/8" dado slot depending on the saw blade orientation with each other. There is not indication on the cut where the blades come together, and the top of the cut is absolutely flat. They outperform by regular multi-blade dado set by far. However, they only cut the two sizes, so they are not going to be your go-to blades for all your dado needs. OUCH!! Hint: Wear gloves when handling these blades. They have SHARP edges just EVERYWHERE! I got the blood off of them before they started to rust and I WILL wear Kevlar shop gloves next time I install them on my saw!

I bought this blade to cut a hole in my work bench to install a tail vise. When I built the bench top years ago I foolishly used screws to join the slats together, so I knew it was a minefield. I didn't want to risk ruining my Festool blade, so I figured buying the less-expensive Oshlun blade was worth a shot. The Oshlun blade made a smooth, effortless cut in the wood bench top--almost as smooth as the Festool blade even though it's not advertised as a wood-cutting blade. I did hit a couple of the screws, and except for a few sparks, the blade went through them like they weren't there. I may never have to use this blade again, but this one use was worth the price I paid for it.

Great blade for the price. They fit my Fein, dewalt perfectly. Very happy and will purchase them again.

This blade does exactly what it says it will do. It cuts a nice straight cut thru aluminum like butter. No kickback at all. One thing it does that's a negative is the chips it creates. They're little flakes that are hard to clean up. I've swept them up even used the shop vac and I still keep finding them. This is not the fault of the blade or saw. This is just how it works but it is something to make note of.

I bought the WEN track saw and was fairly impressed overall. The stock blade was horrible. I swapped it with this blade and man what a difference. I broke down a sheet of 3/4" birch and the cuts were very smooth with very little splintering. Very happy with this purchase.

So I "ran over " a steel bench dog with my Festool blade... Boo hoo my bad. There goes $80. Lesson learned, I'll buy a replacement. Here's an alternative... Hmm $24 for a similar tooth blade? Why not give it a try? Well glad I did! Great cut in 12mm birch plywood. Nary a scratch on the edge and splinter free--just like the $80 Festool blade! Now to stay away from those bench dogs... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BLADE!

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

I bought this finish blade for my 12" Dewalt sliding miter saw. I have purchased some small, 4½" blades for my Rockwell saw. Don't laugh. The little saw is a lifesaver for demo and trimming in tight spaces. That said, I was happy with the construction and quality of those little blades so decided to try this 12", as well as a 10" for my table saw. For the price, I'm really impressed. Super sharp, quiet, and runs true with no vibration that I could specifically attribute to the blade and not the belt drive on the saw. I've used this with oak, pine, fir, poplar, Finnish plywood, and maple with excellent results. The cut is exceptionally smooth and tear-out is usually minimal to nonexistent. The plate is nice and heavy, which I prefer to the more popular thin kerf blades, due to the fact that when you're cutting prefinished hardwood crown in the nested position on your saw, there is very little blade deflection throughout the cut. It can be difficult to get a perfectly tight joint in a hardwood crown with a thin kerf blade as the blade will want to deflect to the side as you move through the cut. When you're working with custom trim that can run $80 to $150 and up per 8' stick, you want the best cut the first time, every time. I had considered other brands like CMT and Freud. Both of which I have a lot of experience using. I don't miss the Teflon coating of the CMT or Freud, but I also don't cut much wood that has a high resin content. The expansion slots are plugged with what I believe is copper. So it doesn't overheat or have that annoying ring that lesser blades can have. I found this to be true with the 10" blade in my table saw as well. If you're looking for an alternative to higher-priced blades, I'd give this one a serious look. I've done approximately 6 or so jobs with this blade and it is still as sharp as when I installed it. If this one has a decent lifespan, I am seriously considering a repeat buy for this one.

After ruining countless jigsaw blades cutting aluminum planks for a large porch replacement project, I decided to investigate whether a circular saw approach would be faster and provider cleaner cuts. The porch planks were aluminum extrusions that were one inch thick and 6.5 inches wide. I used this Oshlun blade in a cordless lithium based circular saw from Porter Cable. It worked wonderfully, but must warn the user to wear eye and ear protection. The project moved along at least ten times faster than it would have otherwise.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

One of the best blades I've owned over the last 30 years.

I bought this blade in May of 2014, bolted it up to a 10" Dewalt crosscut saw and started cutting 3 x 5 aluminum extrusion and several other types of aluminum. I've also cut PVC, ABS, and soft woods with it. The only thing I ever do to it is run a bit of beeswax over the teeth and sides once every month or two.

3-1/2 years later, and that same blade is still bolted up and cutting like the day I bought it.... minus all of the pretty red paint of course. 🙂

Used this for a framing job where my old Makita blade had suffered a lot of "tooth decay" and was having serious trouble doing long rip cuts. This blade did those long rip cuts like slicing through soft butter, with nary a whine or a chatter. And crosscuts were a breeze. Obviously it too will eventually wear out, but it has been well worth the money. Recommended.

This dado set is very nice. The center blades have four cutting tips which makes for less tear out of the stock and less strain on my direct drive table saw. It makes very clean cuts on soft pine, and effortless clean cuts on hardwood too. Someone mentioned in one review to be careful when handling them and/or use gloves as the blades are very sharp and can easily cut you. That is a true statement. I highly recommend these if you’re a serious and/or experienced woodworker. The quality you get against the value is great.

For the cash this is an unbeatable bargain. I cut what seems like a mile of aluminum U-channel with this blade in my DeWalt compound miter box and it sailed through it. ONE BIG POINT: You must use a lubricant when cutting aluminum or the aluminum will melt and fuse to the carbide tips of ANY blade, quickly destroying it, including this one.

The best, and most practical lubricant I've found is stick wax. You can use Stick-Kut from Relton, Castrol's Wax Stick or Boelube. These types of lubricants are packaged in what look like caulking gun tubes and are applied to the sides and teeth of the blade every twenty cuts or so. You can also use beeswax, paraffin or a candle. If you use these lubricants this blade should last forever.

Another big point is the work MUST be securely held. I made a fixture using De-Sta-Co clamps for my miter box which very securely held the aluminum channel I was cutting which made the entire process safe.

In short a super blade for a super price

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

Was looking at cut off saws to work some of my 1/8th aluminum stock and while researching came across this 10" non-ferrous blade. The idea of swapping the blade on my miter saw and having the convenience and accuracy of the tool appealed to me so I made the purchase. Couldn't be happier. The saw easily cut through all the aluminum I threw at it and produced exceptionally accurate smooth cuts each time. My miter saw isn't the greatest (Kobalt 10") but with this blade working non-ferrous metals was easy. For anyone doing this for the first time, recommend eye protection. The blade creates very fine metal flakes while working.

Great metal cutting blade. I use it with my Milwaukee M18 metal circular saw. Fits perfect, stays sharp for a while..

This is an amazing saw blade for the price! I would suggest this blade to anyone with a cold cut saw. I bought one of these for a project to see how it would do on my Milwaukee Metal Cutting Circular Saw and it did better than the blade that came with the saw. I cut through 60ft. of 1/4 inch thick steel with no problem and the blade still had plenty of life in it. I only had to slow down because the saw itself got to hot to hold.
I bought 3 more of these blades after the first one, if you have a cold cut saw that uses an 8inch blade this is the blade to get. The price is great and the quality is fantastic.
This is defiantly a great buy not just for the money but for the quality.

A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

This thing is the tops for me. For under $90, you can get this thing and get WONDERFUL dado cuts for your projects. I use it for box joints often! Make sure to TEST it on some pieces, get good at it a few times. Use the shims to get finer adjustments (because not all saw rulers are created equal). The dado might be set to 5/8" and you move the ruler over 5/8" and you may be 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch too big. Sadly, this can affect your box joints and dadoes. Still, it comes with the shims, so I just put in a few of them to widen the blade a little bit, just barely, and it turns out perfect every time! Once you get it tuned up, this thing will be your friend for life.

Be mindful of how long the arbor is on your table saw...some table saws only have an arbor that is 5/8
or 11/16" long, so all of these blades will not fit on the arbor safely! The box that this thing comes in is awful! I wish it had a nice carrying case made of rubber or plastic.

Still...works great. looks great, easy to learn how to use if you've never done it before, and great if you want to make cuts that are 1/4" thick all the way up to almost an inch thick. I use the 3/4", 5/8", and 1/2" setups ALL the time because those are pretty standard lumber sizes. Just go to the hardware store and get your choice thickness, and you can make all kinds of cool stuff once the blade and wood are the same width. Think about it...BUY THIS THING!

Listen up guys. I was looking for a blade that would cut aluminum profiles and work on a Dewalt chop saw running at 2800RPM so I emailed the manufacturer and got an immediate positive reply about this blade. LOOK NO FURTHER. This blade cuts aluminium clean and fast. No Burrs.
Buy this with your eyes closed but make sure they are open when using it.

This blade is a great bang for the buck. It’s well made, has thick C-4 micrograin carbide, expansion slots with copper silencer plugs, and a stiff precision steel body. It’s very capable of glue ready edges right off the saw, and does a good job in many materials…it does everything a dependable general purpose blade should do. […] It clearly outperformed my $60 40T CMT 213.040.10. Hard to go wrong at the price.

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

I admit...I haven't used this yet. I bought it based on reviews from several woodworking friends and decided on this set rather than cheaper dado versions. I've been a woodworker for decades and used the old wobble dado version by Craftsman and wanted something that was easier to fine tune the width. This has it! The blades are plenty substantial, very heavy, with a variety of thinner spacers to fine tune the dado width. I'm looking forward to using this and can tell it's going to be perfect for my dado needs.

I BOUGHT THIS PRODUCT ABOUT A MONTH AGO AFTER SEARCHING THE WEB FOR AN 8 INCH CALIPER; THAT WAS GOOD QUALITY, ACCURATE, AND EASY TO READ. THIS ONE HAS FIT THE BILL SO FAR. I HAVE USED IT TO ALIGN MY TABLE SAW, ROUTER TABLE FENCE, BANDSAW FENCE, MITER SAW ETC. IT IS GREAT. [...] IS EASY TO READ, EASY TO LOCK AND ADJUST, AND THE MATERIALS USED TO MAKE THIS PRODUCT SEEM TO BE EXTREMELY STURDY. NO RUST SO FAR, AND I AM TRULY PLEASED. YOU COULD PAY MORE, BUT FOR 99% OF ALL USES I CAN THINK OF; YOU WOULD BE SPENDING MONEY NEEDLESSLY. IN MY OPINION; THIS ONE IS A WINNER.

I used this blade to cut 1/4" diamond plate. I had about eighty feet in cuts to make. At first the blade cut the metal like butter and the finish edge on the cut was smooth. The finish edge began to deteriorate with use and after cutting about sixty feet of material the cuts began to become very difficult. I tried cleaning off a buildup of aluminum on the teeth but this didn't help and I considered the blade to be worn out. I then lubricated my cuts with cutting oil and I was amazed. The blade began to cut better than my very first dry cut and the finish edge was very smooth. I wish I had lubricated all of my cuts. It would have extended the life of the blade considerably. Be careful and use eye protection because aluminum chips will be flying. I used goggles to ensure that a chip didn't get up behind my safety glasses.

This type of laser is the best thing you can add to your miter saw if you want some type of aid to show where the blade on the saw will cut. People argue that the shadow line devices are the best- I have both and think this laser is superior. This device puts a line on the material exactly where the blade will cut on the left side of the blade- where 99% of your cuts are made. The line is bright and super sharp- it diminishes in sunlight but you can see it. The shadow line is good, but for it to be accurate you have to bring the blade down to the material. If you don’t, the line is wider than the cut. Also, in sunlight you can’t use it. I like this tool so much more I added it to a saw with the shadow line. Buy it, put it on, use it! It’s as easy as that.

This is a great blade. I’m using it on a radial arm saw. Cuts are clean and accurate. The negative hook gives me much greater control when cross cutting with the radial arm saw because the blade isn’t so aggressive while traveling through the wood. When ripping “one by” pieces of pine or plywood I don’t have to push so hard and it allows me to feed the wood through at the optimum rate. It’s much safer than using a blade that’s intended for a table saw.

I bought these to use on my Mafell track saw when I was building my home and had a lot of richlite cladding and shelves to cut. That material is very hard on blades and after going through several Mafell blades I figured I could try these as they are much less expensive. They worked very well… durability was the same as Mafell. The kerf is a bit bigger which means I have to replace my rubber edge strip on my tracks when I go back to the Mafell blades. I haven’t tried these with wood so I can’t saw how clean they cut (Mafell blade leaves glass like finish). Anyway they are very good blades for the money.

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

Our 1 non-ferrous blade cut the 1" and 3/4" thick aluminum shown in the pictures and finished very strong. Excellent cut quality and durability. Yet to sharpen it.

I've owned the 210 x 52 and 210 x 36 tooth (as well as the 72 tooth non-ferrous) blades since 2016 and find them to be excellent blades for the DIY builder. I work with all sorts of materials, from Miratech, to fir and pine, to oak, to Ipe (hard stuff that), to chocolate Bamboo (harder stuff still), to 1" thick aluminum (with the non-ferrous blade).

I just keep the 52 tooth on my TS75 for most work. Though I'm not doing day in day out production work, I have yet to sharpen it and find that it still makes smooth clean cuts.

I already owned an inexpensive digital caliper but if I leave thee button battery in it when not in use the battery discharges over time. Also the return to zero does drift slightly during use. When I found I needed a fractional caliper I decided to try a dial type.

I bought the Oshlum Dial Caliper over 2 years ago from Amazon for about $31; but I waited to use it on several projects to determine how good it was for my need and how well it held up before I reviewed it. I use it for DIY projects so I did not want to spend the price for a professional grade tool.That considered I found the build quality to be very good and it returned to zero every time. The action was very smooth and was as accurate as I could determine against an extrapolation caliper I know is accurate to .0005 inch. The dial is large enough to easily view and displays both fractional measures on the outside of a drawn ring and decimal measures on inside of the ring. I did not abuse it but it did hit a cement floor more than once and has not shown any damage. I found it excellent for my needs so it deserves the 5 stars.

I have found this dado set to be of very high quality and adaptable to many cutting widths. The cuts are smooth and the depths are even due to the relatively many carbide teeth. I was justified in the expense of the purchase compared with less expensive makes and models. I can sincerely recommend this dado set.

We had purchased one of the Rage Saws, which are absolutely terrific in every way. However the replacement blades are expensive from Rage, and not easy to purchase locally. This Oshlun 10" Blade was deliberately designed to be compatible with the Rage Saws. Having a 1" Bore and Carbide Teeth, ground to provide a standard "triple chip type of cut", it is a perfect replacement for the Rage Steel Cutting Blade.

The blade cuts as well as any other quality brand blade, and at a far less cost.

I bought these blades for my TS55. They were $15 each (now $48) and still WAY cheaper then festool blades. I have not noticed any difference in the quality of the cuts. I will buy more if the price comes down again... but for now I have a mini stockpile in the garage.

I need to cut aluminum frequently but also hate changing blades on my miter saw because it takes 35 minutes to remove all the safety gizmos before spending 10 seconds changing the blade. Using the wrong blade on a 10" saw can be VERY dangerous, and some blades made for metal pretty much burn their way through wood. With this blade, I get great cuts on aluminum, as expected. I can also cut most other materials just as clean as with other blades, just slightly slower. I'd much rather cut a piece of wood in two seconds instead of one second rather than changing blades twice.

Metal blades can be very specific, even if they look basically the same. Don't use this for steel. I have one of their steel blades, and it's also good. Similarly, if you need to cut stainless steel, buy a blade for that. It might seem like a lot of trouble and money to have so many blades, but they exist for a reason. If you're not a pro, a good blade will likely last a lifetime, or at least until you buy that CO2 laser you've always wanted.

Bought this to cut 2020 extruded aluminum on Festool Kapex, and works like a charm. Festool wants $175 for their blade, and hard to find blade with 30mm arbor that will fit festool saw.

Yep! This expensive blade cuts through stainless exhaust tube like BUTTER!!! Replaced the garbage cutting blade on my cheapo Harbor Freight chop saw with this bad boy and went from 45 second cuts to 5 second cuts with almost no pressure to cut through!

Nothing like making a cheezy tool work way better than it was ever intended! WIN!!!

I bought the 50 tooth variety of this accidentally, and while it worked great until it gave up this one is doing the thing I actually needed. The shims are great and makes a nice tight centered fit to my saw with a smaller arbour.

I couldn't be happier with this blade. It has allowed me to cut very small slivers of Avonite on my table saw. Before I had this blade if I tried to cut thin sliver the material would break ruining my piece. Silky smooth cutting…

I recently purchased the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide for my miter saw, and I must say that it has been a game-changer for my woodworking projects. This laser guide has significantly improved the accuracy and precision of my cuts, making my work much more efficient and professional-looking.

The installation of the laser guide was straightforward and hassle-free. It fit perfectly on my miter saw and the alignment was easy to adjust to ensure that the laser line was accurate with my saw blade. Once installed, the laser guide provided a clear, bright line that helped me visualize exactly where my cuts would land, resulting in precise and clean cuts every time.

I particularly appreciate the portability of this laser guide. It is compact and lightweight, making it easy to transport and use on different job sites or workstations. The durability of the guide is also impressive, as it has held up well to regular use and has not required any adjustments or maintenance since I installed it.

Overall, the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide has exceeded my expectations and has become an essential tool in my woodworking arsenal. I highly recommend this laser guide to anyone looking to enhance the accuracy and efficiency of their miter or portable saw cuts. It is a small investment that yields significant improvements in the quality of your work.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

I've just installed it on my DeWalt DWS 782, so I can't speak to longevity. However, it works and the laser line is right on the money. Bonus points for including extra batteries. Also, the hardest part of installing it was the process I would normally have to follow for changing the blade on my saw. Lastly, make sure you tighten the bolt on the blade properly. I thought I tightened it enough without ham handing it, but once the blade brake turned on the blade broke most and kept spinning.