I used to blade on my Makita SPK6000 Rail saw. It cuts just as good as the Makita blade. I was doing rip and cross cuts in Cherry veneered onto MDF, Cherry Ply and Birch Ply....all cuts were super clean. Only downside is the Makita is a 165mm blade stock...so you loose 2.5mm of cutting depth, not much of a down side when you see this blade is half the cost.

Up to this point, I have only used friction and abrasive blades to cut steel. I was skeptical of a blade that looks just like your standard wood blade would work well and could last. But I have been very happy with the speed and smoothness of the cuts, and so far, the blade seems to have remained quite sharp. I've only cut about four 1/2" dia. bolts and a dozen or so 1/2" rebar, so it's still a little early to tell how long it will remain sharp. But it has saved me a lot of time and has kept the metal much cooler than with other blade types. I'm very happy with it so far.

I have read several reviews for Dado stacks, and I thought I would give this one a try. A few reviews on other unnamed products are that the cut is uneven, the blades are all over the place and wobbly to grooved cuts and no repeatability. I am running this on a dewalt dw7345 contractors saw which is a 10" I opted for the 6" blade because I really don't see hte point in getting an 8" set for 20 bucks more when dado's are usually no more than 1" deep in extreme circumstances. the blades are dialed in on a micrometer and measure exactly what they claim, the shims are super accurate nad enable you to really dial in thicknesses to the micrometer. For the money this is a super sharp set up and has so many variations. I have shown one thing which I believe to be true on any saw blade single rip or dado. First cut was with no zero clearance image number three with all the tearout, and keep in mind this was baltic birch 1/2" plywood across the grain, with the grain with or without zero clearance was fine, and the second set is with a simple piece of hardboard over top, ran the blade up through it and successfully created a killer locking box joint using the 1/4,1/4, 1/4 method. I would recommend this to anyone!

I was searching for a cheap blade for my Makita battery saw when I found this one that fits the Festool. Turns out to be perfect for the job. Not only does the blade cut just fine, but I hooked up the cyclone dust collection / vacuum and didn't have to breathe cement dust. Cutting the fiber cement didn't really do anything bad to the saw like I thought it might. Good blade but even better if you have the stuff to suck up the dust.

Quite impressed with the quality, durability, and value of this blade. I only used it to cut up to 2" x 2" square aluminum tubing and am pleased. It still seems to cut fine after dozens of cuts. That said I highly recommend this blade

Excellent value, quality dado set. This has a good complement of chippers and shims to make nearly any width groove you want. The chippers cut smoothly with little to no vibration. The top-bevel teeth on the scoring blades (outer) do make a slightly deeper corner cut as described and as is the norm for this style dado. This dado set has much less tendency for chip-out compared to a router bit, and much improved resistance to burning compared to a router bit.

Oshlun Customer service is excellent. I received one shim with a slight manufacturing defect. Oshlun customer service provided a complete replacement shim set promptly upon identifying the problem to them.
Be aware that the shim set is manufactured to a tight tolerance fit to the arbor, as are the cutting blades. This can make removal of the shims and blades a little slow, but you are assured of good centering of the blades and shims on the arbor. I don't regard this as a defect.

I am very pleased with this dado set and recommend it. I also have an 8-inch Oshlun box joint saw set that has also pleased me.

Amazon Prime delivered very promptly and delivered pricing was excellent.

I BOUGHT THIS PRODUCT ABOUT A MONTH AGO AFTER SEARCHING THE WEB FOR AN 8 INCH CALIPER; THAT WAS GOOD QUALITY, ACCURATE, AND EASY TO READ. THIS ONE HAS FIT THE BILL SO FAR. I HAVE USED IT TO ALIGN MY TABLE SAW, ROUTER TABLE FENCE, BANDSAW FENCE, MITER SAW ETC. IT IS GREAT. [...] IS EASY TO READ, EASY TO LOCK AND ADJUST, AND THE MATERIALS USED TO MAKE THIS PRODUCT SEEM TO BE EXTREMELY STURDY. NO RUST SO FAR, AND I AM TRULY PLEASED. YOU COULD PAY MORE, BUT FOR 99% OF ALL USES I CAN THINK OF; YOU WOULD BE SPENDING MONEY NEEDLESSLY. IN MY OPINION; THIS ONE IS A WINNER.

This is an excellent dado set that produces a true flat bottom dado. The number of chipper blades and shims enable very precise measurements. They are as good as dado sets costing much more.

I have had an old Makita Beam saw for years and years....this is the best blade I have used....Now it is also the first carbide tipped blade, but it sure works well. I am sawing PT fir lumber for retaining wall lagging; lots of it.....I am happy.

Bought the 30 tooth for thicker ferrous metals and 50 tooth for thinner ferrous and both cut great for there specific intention. Bought 5 3/8" size and used on my M18 Milwaukee metal saw. No complaints other then wish they made it in a
5 1/2" or 5 7/8" so that I can fully cut through a bundle of light gauge 1 5/8" studs in one shot as the blade wears down. They do sell the 5 7/8" for thicker ferrous metal but not ideal for light gauge studs because leaves thicker burrs and not as clean cut.

We had purchased one of the Rage Saws, which are absolutely terrific in every way. However the replacement blades are expensive from Rage, and not easy to purchase locally. This Oshlun 10" Blade was deliberately designed to be compatible with the Rage Saws. Having a 1" Bore and Carbide Teeth, ground to provide a standard "triple chip type of cut", it is a perfect replacement for the Rage Steel Cutting Blade.

The blade cuts as well as any other quality brand blade, and at a far less cost.

I bought this finish blade for my 12" Dewalt sliding miter saw. I have purchased some small, 4½" blades for my Rockwell saw. Don't laugh. The little saw is a lifesaver for demo and trimming in tight spaces. That said, I was happy with the construction and quality of those little blades so decided to try this 12", as well as a 10" for my table saw. For the price, I'm really impressed. Super sharp, quiet, and runs true with no vibration that I could specifically attribute to the blade and not the belt drive on the saw. I've used this with oak, pine, fir, poplar, Finnish plywood, and maple with excellent results. The cut is exceptionally smooth and tear-out is usually minimal to nonexistent. The plate is nice and heavy, which I prefer to the more popular thin kerf blades, due to the fact that when you're cutting prefinished hardwood crown in the nested position on your saw, there is very little blade deflection throughout the cut. It can be difficult to get a perfectly tight joint in a hardwood crown with a thin kerf blade as the blade will want to deflect to the side as you move through the cut. When you're working with custom trim that can run $80 to $150 and up per 8' stick, you want the best cut the first time, every time. I had considered other brands like CMT and Freud. Both of which I have a lot of experience using. I don't miss the Teflon coating of the CMT or Freud, but I also don't cut much wood that has a high resin content. The expansion slots are plugged with what I believe is copper. So it doesn't overheat or have that annoying ring that lesser blades can have. I found this to be true with the 10" blade in my table saw as well. If you're looking for an alternative to higher-priced blades, I'd give this one a serious look. I've done approximately 6 or so jobs with this blade and it is still as sharp as when I installed it. If this one has a decent lifespan, I am seriously considering a repeat buy for this one.

Had mine about 3 years now. Use it all the time in my woodshop. Never had any problems with it. Works smooth, zeros in and keeps zero. I have noticed that occasionally the zero is off by a tiny, tiny bit, say half the width of the needle. I read in the company's description above that accuracy is +/- .001, so when I see it off zero, that tiny bit probably is .001. So mine is as accurate as described. The metal is nothing fancy, but it is smooth and machined well. Everything fits well and works. I am an avid woodworker. I use it for thickness planing, some joint work , measure the depth of a hole or groove, width of a groove, inside measurements, etc... The dial is easy to read and is in fractions, which I use. So no math involved. The fraction marks are in 64th's, you can also easily read between the marks to 128th's. If I cut a joint to 128th's of an inch you know it is a very good day in the shop indeed !!! Realistically if you are looking to buy one for very fine tolerances for fitting metal parts together or building machinery then you might want to go way up in price range. It's great for wood, the wood probably will move a 128th mark on a humid day anyway. I prefer a dial then a digital. I've read that a digital can round a measurement up if it falls between digits, that it uses energy when off, so batteries get used up. A dial lets you see the measurement when between digits or markings, so I know if just one more swipe of the plane will put it where I want it. I don't think you can buy more accuracy at this price range. For working wood I don't know why you would need expensive accuracy as the wood will move fine increments across it's grain overnight, just laying in your shop. Many woodworkers work down to a 32th of an inch in accuracy. So to be able to see a 128th is very close measuring for woodwork.

I've bought these in the past and they perform well at a fraction of Fein's price. That said, they're not metal cutting like the Feins but they do a good job on wood.

Great blade for the price. They fit my Fein, dewalt perfectly. Very happy and will purchase them again.

I love this blade. I installed it in my cabinet saw and so far I've cut hardwood, plywood, and plexiglass without any issues. The surface that is left is super smooth - feels as if it were sanded by a 300+ grit sandpaper!
I can't comment on the longevity of the blade sharpness but after owning it for couple of months it's held up very well.

For the cash this is an unbeatable bargain. I cut what seems like a mile of aluminum U-channel with this blade in my DeWalt compound miter box and it sailed through it. ONE BIG POINT: You must use a lubricant when cutting aluminum or the aluminum will melt and fuse to the carbide tips of ANY blade, quickly destroying it, including this one.

The best, and most practical lubricant I've found is stick wax. You can use Stick-Kut from Relton, Castrol's Wax Stick or Boelube. These types of lubricants are packaged in what look like caulking gun tubes and are applied to the sides and teeth of the blade every twenty cuts or so. You can also use beeswax, paraffin or a candle. If you use these lubricants this blade should last forever.

Another big point is the work MUST be securely held. I made a fixture using De-Sta-Co clamps for my miter box which very securely held the aluminum channel I was cutting which made the entire process safe.

In short a super blade for a super price

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

I bought this blade not knowing what to expect, as I have never cut metal with this type of blade. I only needed to make about 50 cuts in extruded aluminum I-beam, so if it could complete that job, I would be happy. So far it has performed flawlessly. I even used it to cut some 1/2" EMT, though not recommended, it did the job. I may have shortened its useful life, but I cannot see how the quality of cut has been affected. I do recommend two things: First, use a wax cutting lube, and apply it every 5 or so cuts. Secondly, go nice and slow. For the price, I definitely recommend this blade.

Only blades that fit my 5 3/8” fuel steel cutting circular saw from Milwaukee.

I Cut through about 160 1/2” steel rods and a bunch more extruded aluminum even though I shoulda used a non ferrous blade but so impressed I bought all of their brand blades for aluminum, steel and even wood since they’re the only ones that fit my saw; I have the Milwaukee Fuel Metal Cutting Circular Saw, I can only fit 5.5” blades with a 20mm arbor (most blades are 6”+ and only have a 10 mm arbor).

Have done a lot of wood working projects over the years. Have done carpentry on houses. Have done fiberglass work for boats. This was my first foray into Aluminum/Metal cutting. Purchased a 16' X 16' Mechanical Pergola kit for my home and needed to trim the beams, louvers, posts for the install. Purchased a 12" Compound Miter saw from Northern tool and upgraded the blade to this 120tooth metal cutting blade and OMG it was good! Cut 1000lbs of aluminum and it was cutting just as good on the last cut as the first cut. Well worth the money for the quality of the cutting. Beware though cutting metal is nothing like cutting wood! Clamp everything and be sure to keep the items you R cutting firm otherwise you'll get into trouble. I quickly learned as several items kicked and I broke a 2 teeth from this blade but for the rest of the project it kept cutting like they were not even missing.

I've just installed it on my DeWalt DWS 782, so I can't speak to longevity. However, it works and the laser line is right on the money. Bonus points for including extra batteries. Also, the hardest part of installing it was the process I would normally have to follow for changing the blade on my saw. Lastly, make sure you tighten the bolt on the blade properly. I thought I tightened it enough without ham handing it, but once the blade brake turned on the blade broke most and kept spinning.

An absolutely great saw blade for cutting aluminum. Definitely spend the extra money and get some lube for the saw blade I know it sounds weird but it will keep the aluminum from gumming up in between the teeth and make each cut really easy. Without it you'll be cleaning out your saw blade with a screwdriver and the cuts will not be clean and smooth. So do yourself a favor and get the lube for the saw blade when you purchase. It will also extend the life of your blade dramatically.

I'm just a hobbyist woodworker, but I prefer quality tools - especially if they aren't too expensive. This dado set fits that description perfectly. Smooth, clean, flat bottom dados with no tear out. My first project with this set was in red oak, and I don't know how the set could have performed any better. Years ago, I bought an adjustable dado set - two blades mounted on a center hub that would let you tilt the blades in or out to change the width of you dado. Total junk. Literally could not make a flat bottom due to the design. Don't know if that type of dado set is still made, but if you see one, avoid it at all costs. I selected this Oshlun set because I thought the full blade multi-tooth chippers and the high tooth count on the outside blades would give a cleaner cut than the sets with fewer teeth and wing chippers with only two teeth. Don't know if that's true, but I am completely happy with the results I got with this Oshlun set. No regrets spending the money at all. The only negative is the advertised storage / carry case is simply a cardboard box with foam cutouts. Still a 5 star product.

I bought this blade for my Stihl TS 420 block saw. Although I'm sure the manufacturer would call it ill advised to say the least, I've shoved this blade into wood with embedded steel plates and bands, rocks, dirt, you name it. If your segmented concrete blade or disc shouldn't be used to cut it, then this is the answer. If you have a demo saw/block saw, this blade is the necessary third for a complete collection, for with all three there is virtually nothing you can not cut. Be forewarned, this blade is not for the meek. It is not like a chainsaw. It makes a chain and bar seem like kid stuff. Sawzall for pre-school girls. This will grab ahold of and rip apart virtually anything it comes in contact with, and isn't so forgiving like the discs and segmented concrete blades. With that said, it is way easier to use than you might expect. Look closely and you will see the carbide tips are set at a slightly negative angle, so it doesn't rip the saw out of your hands as easily as you might expect. DEFINITELY have the full blade guard properly installed and angled to protect from the shrapnel, and be wearing proper leg, hand and eye protection because this thing removes serious chunks of whatever is unfortunate enough to come in contact with it. I've put alot of miles on mine already, and it is fine. I can tell it isn't as fast as it was new, but for what i've done to it, it is impressive. I highly recommend this blade for commercial applications by qualified operators. You will not be disappointed. I would caution DIY folks to be sure you are competent to safely operate such an aggressive machine and blade combination, and that such an extreme setup is necessary. It is neat, and it is kinda fun, but definitely not a toy.

Ok, I received this blade about a week ago and decided to replace the 60T stock blade on my Kapex for a large built in job. This required me to cross cut a LOT of 3/4 and 1/4 oak plywood. This stuff can be made a mess pretty easily with a crappy blade. The 80T did a wonderful job on the ply and solid materials. Almost no tear out/splintering on the ply and the cuts on the solid stock where beautiful. This blade cuts as well as my $150 Tenyru. Time will tell how well/long it stays sharp. Will post more info in a few weeks.

UPDATE.....been using the blade for a couple of weeks. Still sharp. The thing that sets this blade apart, and all good blades, is the ability to cut small amounts from small mouldings and leave them laying on the table rather than sending them off like a missle. This blade has not thrown anything yet! Will be purchasing another one as a back up.

If you're looking for the right blade to cut 8020 aluminium t slot, you can't go wrong with this blade. That's what I bought it for, and it has worked perfectly on my table saw. Just be sure to use some blade butter or some sort of wax or lubricant, and you'll get nice clean burr free cuts. I've used it on the 15 series 1515 and 1530 regular, lite, and ultra-lite profiles without issue.

I was hesitant to buy this blade since there were no reviews to vouch for its quality.I am a professional trim carpenter and needed a blade that could last and cut cleanly.I decided to take a chance rather than spend three times more $ on the festool brand or one of the other alternatives out there.I have been extremely impressed with this blade and have found the blade indistinguishable from the festool in use and in long life between sharpenings.I am buying a couple more since I like to have several blades on hand at all times.

This is my new favorite demo blade.

I spent a day with this blade. It cuts rough, but for demolition work that doesn't matter. It managed to cut through a few hundred deck screws, and rip up a few sheets of plywood that had been coated in 1/4" thick epoxy and fiberglass. This blade is a beast - after all that it's still perfectly sharp and hasn't taken any damage. Besides being so durable, it's really QUICK cutting.

Prior to using this, I had been doing demo work with a sawzall with demo blades. This thing lasts way longer and cuts much quicker. After putting this in an old circular saw, I barely touched the sawzall.

I bought this blade with the intent of using it when I refinish my hardwood floors. I figured a $20 blade would be a lot easier to swallow if I hit something hard while cutting out some of the old damaged boards.

I did some test cuts on 3/4" birch plywood scraps. The cuts were clean and sharp. To be honest, I'm not sure that the festool blade could have done any better. Maybe the Festool blade would outperform this blade on other materials but for sheet goods I would consider them equal.

I'll be ordering a couple more blades. At this price I would be crazy if I didn't.

Great price and seem to last as long as the $8 ea ones from Home Depot and Lowes. Using these on a Porter Cable recip tool.

I bought this to cut up left over Ipe decking. That stuff is harder than the hub of hell. I am very sure on softwood even 20 years Doug fir it would cut like butter. The Ipe is too dense and the blade need more teeth to cut quickly.

I have the Makita XSC04Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 5-7/8" Metal Cutting Saw. This 5 3/8 blade's cut-depth is more than adequate for my needs. I've been doing 90 and 45-degree cuts (not bevels) through 3 x 3 x 3/8 inch angle iron. So far, about 5 ft of cuts, and the blade is still working fine. This compares very well with the Makita blade that came with my saw - for half the price. I think this Oshlun blade cuts a little faster than the Makita. Definitely recommend.

I was looking for a reasonably priced full-kerf blade for my 12" miter saw. I had been having issues with a big-name HATB thin-kerf blade deflecting, causing inaccuracies and in some cases actually grabbing the work. After checking out several alternatives I settled on the Oshlun as a kind of low-cost experiment mainly to see if a thicker blade would solve my problem. This one has a .134" kerf with a thick plate and no noticable runout. The results have been stunning. Besides the fact that the blade seems to cut truer with almost no drag, the cuts are clean both on top and bottom sides! We'll see if that keeps up as the blade wears but I have been delighted so far. My blade has C-3 carbide. I think the blade now comes in C-4, which would probably last longer. One thing to look out for is that the mass of this blade is greater than most, which will cause it to coast longer when shut down or put more strain on your blade brake if you have one. Oshlun has won my loyalty with a great product at a great price.

Im a finish carpenter. I use my table saw a couple days a week. I had this blade on my saw for a little over a year. I figured that out from my order history here on Amazon. That equates to thousands of rips. Oak, mahogany, pine, poplar, mdf, pvc, birch plywood, cdx, doug fir, treated... everything. Ill cut free hand and sometimes put a little pressure on the saw. Maybe cute through a nail by mistake. It never skipped a beat. I took it off today. It wasnt missing a single carbide. There wasnt even a chipped carbide. I didnt take it off because i thought it needed to be changed. I just had a new one so i said what the hell. Anyway. Dont buy a different blade. Buy this one.

Finally, a dial caliper for the masses of woodworkers out there who care for accuracy and quality. This dial caliper is not only accurate to 1/64th of an inch, but it is also a joy to use for its simplicity and very legible dial. I highly recommend its use in any woodshop. Bravo, a fine piece of machinery. I give it five nails out of five.

This dado set was on my Christmas list - and Santa delivered! I researched quite a bit and narrowed it down the the entry level Orange, Freud, and the Oshlun. The Oshlun won out primarily due to the low price point. Many woodworking forums indicated the quality was comparable to the more costly competition. I'm not a tool snob and don't really care if my tools are made in Asia, Germany, or on the moon, as long as they last and function as intended. I've used the blade several times now, cutting 3/4 slots with and against the grain in softwood. So far I'm impressed. I haven't used the competition, so I can't comment on how it compares. I have a large saw with a powerful 240v motor, so I can't comment on how practical this dado would be in a small table saw.

Pros: High tooth count, decent manual, smooth cut, flat bottom (see note about edge scoring) and big chippers

Con: Box - many dados come in a box that doubles as a storage case, not this one. The cardboard and foam is adequate for shipping, but not suitable for storing.

Would I recommend this to a friend? Yes

Note: All dados claim to leave a flat bottom. That does not mean that the entire bottom of the cut is actually flat. It does mean that the bottom will be flat except for a fine score at each edge of the cut. Each edge of the cut will leave a very fine score line to minimize tear out. If the cut is just one pass, the bottom looks perfectly flat, the score lines are quite a non-issue and difficult to see. However, if used in multiple passes to remove larger amounts of material, such as in making tenons or larger slots, the outside edges of each cut will leave a fine line that is easily seen. Don't confuse "flat bottom" advertising to indicate a true flat bottom and smooth cut. A truly flat bottom cut would likely come with a bit of tear out. If you absolutely must have a true flat bottom, stick to a router.

This thing is the tops for me. For under $90, you can get this thing and get WONDERFUL dado cuts for your projects. I use it for box joints often! Make sure to TEST it on some pieces, get good at it a few times. Use the shims to get finer adjustments (because not all saw rulers are created equal). The dado might be set to 5/8" and you move the ruler over 5/8" and you may be 1/32 or 1/16 of an inch too big. Sadly, this can affect your box joints and dadoes. Still, it comes with the shims, so I just put in a few of them to widen the blade a little bit, just barely, and it turns out perfect every time! Once you get it tuned up, this thing will be your friend for life.

Be mindful of how long the arbor is on your table saw...some table saws only have an arbor that is 5/8
or 11/16" long, so all of these blades will not fit on the arbor safely! The box that this thing comes in is awful! I wish it had a nice carrying case made of rubber or plastic.

Still...works great. looks great, easy to learn how to use if you've never done it before, and great if you want to make cuts that are 1/4" thick all the way up to almost an inch thick. I use the 3/4", 5/8", and 1/2" setups ALL the time because those are pretty standard lumber sizes. Just go to the hardware store and get your choice thickness, and you can make all kinds of cool stuff once the blade and wood are the same width. Think about it...BUY THIS THING!

I was a little concerned about the brightness after reading several reviews. Ordered anyway. I have LED lights on both sides of my miter saw and the laser showed up just fine. I'm not sure about durability but if I have a problem later I'll add a new review. Hardest part of installation was Loosening the Arbor nut.

I purchased this blade to cut some 1/8" thick aluminum angle stock with my 8.5" Hitachi sliding miter saw. The cuts were extremely clean, with essentially no burrs. After 20+ cuts (which obviously isn't much!) the blade is essentially new and cutting the same as when first installed.

I used to buy Endurance blades because they lasted the longest. They went up in price so I tried Oshlun. It works just as well or better and lasts as long. I can now buy 2 blades for what I used to spend on one. These types of blades don't last a long time anyway but they will last longer if you keep slow and steady feed rates and don't try to take on too many layers at a time if cutting flat stock. It's easy to chip a tooth on the edges of the steel both starting and finishing a cut. These chips mean that the next tooth in line will be forced to do more work and soon it will fail, and so on.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

This blade makes very very smooth cuts in hardwood, softwood, and plywood, using my Harbor Freight/Chicago Electric 10" compound sliding miter saw. This saw is a bit underpowered compared to most, at only 11A. There's just a very tiny bit of splintering on the bottom and back edges, but no chipping at all. The cuts are as smooth as if sanded, as smooth as S4S finished lumber. The blade definitely runs quieter than the blade which came with the saw. And, despite having 20 more teeth, it cuts through thick material better and faster than the stock blade did, especially 4x4s.

It was extremely difficult to find a reasonably priced blade with the negative hook appropriate to a sliding compound miter saw, and they are rare at any price. I really didn't want to spend over $50, being as this is only a $100 saw! I would have preferred to spend only $25-30, but negative hooks could not be found in that range. I also went with this blade because of the full width kerf, which supposedly helps prevent blade deflection, especially on a SCMS. Some say a thin kerf makes better use of a lower powered saw, but the thick doesn't seem to be a problem for my use. Most of the blades made for SCMS, ie negative hook, are thin kerf.

I highly recommend this blade! I cut a fair amount of plywood, so the extra money seemed justified, and as I said, I could not find a negative hook blade for any less. I just wish I could get it for as little money as the Oshlun positive hook 10" blades! I'd happily settle for 60-tooth blade if it were $20 less.

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

Bought this to cut 2020 extruded aluminum on Festool Kapex, and works like a charm. Festool wants $175 for their blade, and hard to find blade with 30mm arbor that will fit festool saw.

Bought this to cut some 8020 stock to size on my saw and it went thru it like a warm knife thru butter. The cut that was left was a nice clean cut and I plan to use it for some more aluminum 8020 that I am using to build a Taig lathe stand for.
Pat

We bought this for removing a breezeway between two buildings. We had to cut walls and the shingled roof, and then removed pieces with an excavator. This made the job pretty easy.
This blade is really heavy, and takes a bit ti spin it in the saw, but once it gets going, will cut through anything without issue. Cutting with it is pretty easy, if you can handle the hefty weight, otherwise it's easy to control.
Only downside was that it was definitely getting dull towards the end of the job. We had it sharpened, but haven't used it since, so we'll see if it's still usable or not.

I am using this blade on my chop saw to cut 1" biscuits out of hickory logs (I use them in my BBQ pit). This is an aggressive blade and it cuts through the hickory like it's butter. This is NOT the recommended use for the blade but it is the perfect solution for me. I can see how this blade would work well in a rescue operation - something it's actually designed to be used for.

I bought this blade set to make Dados and Rabbets for a couple of small projects I do around the house. Since my saw's arbor is a little shorter, but more importantly, part of the metal sawdust collection port is close to the blade, it can't handle typical Dado stacks. This blade set, due to it's unique design, gets in there and also fits within the stock choke plate! You have to wiggle the two blades as you install going one at a time, but since they mesh together on the arbor, it's rather easy.

NOTE: Both of these blades are easily twice as thick each as typical blades, so they're noticeably heavier. I was concerned the extra weight would cause issues with the motor or cutting in general, but nothing seems to be amiss. I do give the motor an extra couple of seconds to get up to speed before pushing through any material.

The two sizes this blade set cuts (1/4" and 3/8") are accurate and VERY clean. These are the perfect sizes to create box drawers from either 1/2" or 3/4" sheet goods, which is what I plan to in the near future, using either the "Quarter, Quarter, Quarter" method for 1/2" material, or "Half, Half, Half" for 3/4" material. Overall, I'm very pleased with this purchase.

This blade is a great bang for the buck. It’s well made, has thick C-4 micrograin carbide, expansion slots with copper silencer plugs, and a stiff precision steel body. It’s very capable of glue ready edges right off the saw, and does a good job in many materials…it does everything a dependable general purpose blade should do. […] It clearly outperformed my $60 40T CMT 213.040.10. Hard to go wrong at the price.

I recently purchased the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide for my miter saw, and I must say that it has been a game-changer for my woodworking projects. This laser guide has significantly improved the accuracy and precision of my cuts, making my work much more efficient and professional-looking.

The installation of the laser guide was straightforward and hassle-free. It fit perfectly on my miter saw and the alignment was easy to adjust to ensure that the laser line was accurate with my saw blade. Once installed, the laser guide provided a clear, bright line that helped me visualize exactly where my cuts would land, resulting in precise and clean cuts every time.

I particularly appreciate the portability of this laser guide. It is compact and lightweight, making it easy to transport and use on different job sites or workstations. The durability of the guide is also impressive, as it has held up well to regular use and has not required any adjustments or maintenance since I installed it.

Overall, the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide has exceeded my expectations and has become an essential tool in my woodworking arsenal. I highly recommend this laser guide to anyone looking to enhance the accuracy and efficiency of their miter or portable saw cuts. It is a small investment that yields significant improvements in the quality of your work.

A very good quality substitute at a much better price than the overpriced dremel blades that I was forced to use

I need to cut aluminum frequently but also hate changing blades on my miter saw because it takes 35 minutes to remove all the safety gizmos before spending 10 seconds changing the blade. Using the wrong blade on a 10" saw can be VERY dangerous, and some blades made for metal pretty much burn their way through wood. With this blade, I get great cuts on aluminum, as expected. I can also cut most other materials just as clean as with other blades, just slightly slower. I'd much rather cut a piece of wood in two seconds instead of one second rather than changing blades twice.

Metal blades can be very specific, even if they look basically the same. Don't use this for steel. I have one of their steel blades, and it's also good. Similarly, if you need to cut stainless steel, buy a blade for that. It might seem like a lot of trouble and money to have so many blades, but they exist for a reason. If you're not a pro, a good blade will likely last a lifetime, or at least until you buy that CO2 laser you've always wanted.

I recently purchased the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide for my miter saw, and I must say that it has been a game-changer for my woodworking projects. This laser guide has significantly improved the accuracy and precision of my cuts, making my work much more efficient and professional-looking.

The installation of the laser guide was straightforward and hassle-free. It fit perfectly on my miter saw and the alignment was easy to adjust to ensure that the laser line was accurate with my saw blade. Once installed, the laser guide provided a clear, bright line that helped me visualize exactly where my cuts would land, resulting in precise and clean cuts every time.

I particularly appreciate the portability of this laser guide. It is compact and lightweight, making it easy to transport and use on different job sites or workstations. The durability of the guide is also impressive, as it has held up well to regular use and has not required any adjustments or maintenance since I installed it.

Overall, the Oshlun LG-M01 Miter and Portable Saw Laser Guide has exceeded my expectations and has become an essential tool in my woodworking arsenal. I highly recommend this laser guide to anyone looking to enhance the accuracy and efficiency of their miter or portable saw cuts. It is a small investment that yields significant improvements in the quality of your work.

I use this blade on a chop saw to cut wooden timbers imbedded with dirt, sand and occasional metal. I does a very good job. It won't stay sharp forever but I have had it resharpened and it works like new again. The person who sharpened it said I could probably have it sharpened 4 or 5 times more. It does the job I want it to. I don't recommend an inexperienced operator use it in this manner. You really have to know what you are doing to avoid pinching of the blade etc. I actually bought another one to use while the other is being sharpened.

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

Used this for a framing job where my old Makita blade had suffered a lot of "tooth decay" and was having serious trouble doing long rip cuts. This blade did those long rip cuts like slicing through soft butter, with nary a whine or a chatter. And crosscuts were a breeze. Obviously it too will eventually wear out, but it has been well worth the money. Recommended.

I bought this for my Evolution R210 CMS saw. I only use this saw for cutting metal. Used this blade to make some cuts in mild steel. It cuts the steel like butter with very few sparks. It's much better the Eolutions original blade. I can recommend this blade for sure. Due to shipping and import taxes this blade is twice it's original price but still cheaper then an Evolution Steel blade (blue series).

We have a need to cut through 1/4 inch thick x 8 inch fiberglass. Previously we've used a band saw which is very tedious and difficult to keep to a straight line. We bought this blade to put in our chop saw. It's worked perfectly. We can slice cleanly through the fiberglass sheet in just a few seconds. Obviously it throws out a whole lot more dust than a band saw so protective masks and good ventilation are important.

I bought these blades for my TS55. They were $15 each (now $48) and still WAY cheaper then festool blades. I have not noticed any difference in the quality of the cuts. I will buy more if the price comes down again... but for now I have a mini stockpile in the garage.

I'm a big Festool fan. Well, I should say that I really like the Festool products that I currently own. I've owned a few green tools that....well.....sucked. The track saw is one of my favorites. Yeah, it's a little underpowered when cutting bevels but I rarely use it to make these cuts. One thing, IMO, that Festool doesn't do well is make blades. I've owned a couple of the Kapex saws and the blades provided are pretty sad. The fact that they provide a 60T blade with a $1400 miter saw is ridiculous. Do they really think someone is using this saw for something other than finish trim??? Sure it has a negative hook but still.... Back to the Oshlun blade. It cuts great. Super clean cross cuts and plenty fast when ripping 3/4 ply. I highly recommend this blade and will be purchasing another. I purchased the 80T for my Kapex and it's a great blade as well.

I have been using these blades for several years as an economical alternative to Festool branded blades and I believe they may in fact be the same blade! Performance wise there is no difference at all. Would 100% recommend them to all serious woodworkers and DIY as well.

Other blade replacements I have found have a kerf to thin to clear the Dewalt tracksaw's riving knife. This Oshlun blade's kerf is wide enough to clear the knife and the resulting cut is excellent. It could use a bit more rake (tooth angle) to make the cut a bit easier, but overal this blade is a good replacement.

With all those teeth is makes very smooth cuts. I'm working with red oak at the moment and this blade is doing exactly what I wanted it to do. The cross cuts are very good and I am very satisfied with the results. I've only had it for a couple weeks and so far it's not lost any teeth yet but I'll be keeping an eye on it.

My miter saw is one of my favorite saws. It is so versatile. One thing that I don’t like about it though is it doesn’t have an LED light like some of the newer models do. I tried to find one that works with my saw but there are none. I was watching a woodworking video and the guy doing the video had one of these. So , I decided to buy one.

When I received the package it included the laser guide and three small watch type batteries. When I opened the back of the guide to install the batteries I was pleasantly surprised that batteries were already installed. So the three batteries are extra batteries. That was a nice touch by the manufacturer.

Connect to my saw was very simple. As the blade sounds the laser guide automatically turns on and emits a laser that creates a line on what you are cutting. The cut line matched up perfectly with the laser. One thing I knew ahead of time but not everyone might know before using one of these laser guides is that the saw blade needs to be spinning in order for the guide to work. An LED light always shines and casts a shadow line on the object you are cutting whether the blade is spinning or not. But for this laser guide you need to engage the blade and have it spinning in order for the laser to create a cut line. You can keep the blade high enough and safely out of the way of any adjustments you may need to make to your piece being cut. I usually spin, stop the blade, adjust, spin the blade again and repeat the process if necessary until its is exactly where yo want it to be. I know my saw well enough that I usually put the piece of wood down in the right spot or close to it most of the time and just need to spin the blade once to make some minor adjustments.

I don’t have the money yet to buy a fancier saw with an LED light so until that happens I’m gong to keep using this laser guide as it works well.

As a complete novice woodworker, I watched YouTube videos of people doing amazing and easy finger joints with dado stacks. Most said for basic work you don't need to buy a really expensive set.

Well, maybe you don't, but do not go the cheapest set your local store has. Get these instead.

I bought a Skil brand dado stack for 40 bucks at a local store. I made about 5 attempts at notches. I adjusted them, I tried every blade they gave me. All the cuts were horribly uneven, had a lot of blowout in the back, and I was extremely disappointed with them. I uploaded pictures of the best ones.

I then decided to go with suggestions on these reviews and give these a shot, for not much more than my terrible Skil experience. I got them today, tossed them on, and made a cut (I'm just using a miter gauge and a clamp for the test cuts).

I was amazed. It was a lazy cut, I'm not using a sled like I normally would, I'm not even using a zero clearance throat plate. Just a miter gauge. And the cut was near perfect and uniform. I uploaded several pictures.

There is no blowout the back, and in fact I can't even tell which side I cut from just by looking at it.

While I'm sure these aren't as precision as a much much more expensive set, for the relatively cheap price these are very worth it. Get them and don't waste your time with skil.

So I "ran over " a steel bench dog with my Festool blade... Boo hoo my bad. There goes $80. Lesson learned, I'll buy a replacement. Here's an alternative... Hmm $24 for a similar tooth blade? Why not give it a try? Well glad I did! Great cut in 12mm birch plywood. Nary a scratch on the edge and splinter free--just like the $80 Festool blade! Now to stay away from those bench dogs... HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BLADE!

I used this in my 20v dewalt circular saw for cutting 26ga corrugated galvanized metal roofing (for raised garden beds). I ripped 2 panels at a time, lengthwise down the middle. Then i cut them across the corrugation and it did a beautiful job, and pretty quickly. I had to mount this blade on my saw with the label side in, so make sure you wear some goggles and gloves as the backward-pointing teeth will send sparks flying toward you.

Never using a stacked dado set before, I relied mostly on the reviews of the people here on Amazon (as I do for most of my purchases). Professional reviews from magazines or websites are nice, but I find that it's better to hear the feedback from actual Average Joe users. That said, it was a difficult decision choosing between the Oshlun and Freud sets, but after reading the reviews, I decided to spend a little less and go for the Oshlun set.

A big thing I keep reading in the reviews is how people feel the supplied box is just god awful and deduct a point or two for it. First off, I didn't spend $65 (6-inch set) for a cardboard box, I spent that much on the product inside. With that being said, and considering what people were saying about the box, I was really expecting something with a thickness less than a cereal box to be what held the dado set, but to my surprise, the box is actually very sturdy. It's also really nice that individual styrofoam cutouts were made to separate the saw blades so that they don't contact each other and chip the carbide tips. I plan on using the box as a long term storage piece for the time being until a time comes when I may need to build a wooden case for the set, but even then I'll use the original foam inserts for extra protection.

Aside from that, the blades cut a very smooth and flat bottom with very little chipout on the ends. The scoring was a little bit deeper than I had thought it would be initially, but it's not enough for me to worry about or deduct stars for. It hasn't done anything to lessen the quality of glue ups in my cuts, but if it had there's still 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out in a few strokes.

Overall I am very pleased with this set. I've found it incredibly easy to change the setup and the included chart for sizes is really nice as well. I have no regrets about the purchase.

I couldn't be happier with this blade. It has allowed me to cut very small slivers of Avonite on my table saw. Before I had this blade if I tried to cut thin sliver the material would break ruining my piece. Silky smooth cutting…

We buy these every time we go through them which owning a construction business is at least 4 times a year.

After ruining countless jigsaw blades cutting aluminum planks for a large porch replacement project, I decided to investigate whether a circular saw approach would be faster and provider cleaner cuts. The porch planks were aluminum extrusions that were one inch thick and 6.5 inches wide. I used this Oshlun blade in a cordless lithium based circular saw from Porter Cable. It worked wonderfully, but must warn the user to wear eye and ear protection. The project moved along at least ten times faster than it would have otherwise.

I have turned some very expensive wood into sawdust and regret. Surely with this tool I can do so at a much faster pace. I have never used a stack dado set before but some would-be-wood-worker-guys on YouTube make it look pretty easy, and most of them have their fingers. So how hard can it be? I threw away the instructions ‘cause, who needs those? When you have 3lbs of steel spinning at 6,000 rpm who cares about that? The center hole for the arbor is extremely close tolerance (and for good reason) which made installation and removal a bit challenging but when installed, very very secure. The instructions indicate the blade stack and shims are “under rated” or “under sized” to accommodate the nominal thickness of various woods. So I took them at face value and installed the 3/4” setup. Now, let me be clear, I have NEVER used a dado set before. I took out my calipers and measured the stack installed and tightened. Just short of .75” as promised. So far so good. Used a square to measure cut depth. So far so good. Set up the fence to center the cut at 4” from the desired edge. So far so good. With nervous anticipation green button, on. Soft start up, check. Dust collection, on. All seems to be going to plan. No noises. No vibrations. No issues. Time to put the wood to it! The cut quality was PERFECT! No tear out, no truly discernable ridges in the cut. The chippers made relatively clean cuts the whole distance. My first dado cut was 25” of pure success. The fitment of the dado was near perfect as far as I could tell. I glued it up, threw in a screw or four and all is well. I wiped the blades down as they had plenty of oil to protect them. The shipping/storage box is not pretty but adequate to protect them. Would recommend to anyone needing the occasional dado cut.

If this saw blade cuts steel like my Oshlun aluminum cutting blade cuts aluminum, it will also be a winner. I haven't gotten to use it yet, but when I am through with a rush project I am currently working on, I will try it out on some steel shapes that I have in the garage. The unique tooth configuration should allow my 18 volt Firestorm Laser saw to cut steel effortlessly, and with carbide teeth it should last a long time. Stay tuned....

I got this blade to cut thin aluminum tile trim pieces because it was highly rated. When I got the blade I installed it on my chop saw the way I always install blades; with the labeled side facing out. Tried doing some cutting and the blade worked but wasn't very impressive. Then I looked more closely and noticed the rotation was backwards and I had the blade on backwards. Flipped it around so the labeling didn't show and the blade cut like a dream. It leaves an almost mirror smooth surface on cuts and I could adjust miters by trimming a hair off cuts I had already made. And it wasn't noisy the way some people had said. This blade was well worth it for me.

The blade is too thin, the locking nut bottoms out before it can secure the blade to the spindle. I needed a .2mm washer to make it work and it does very well. The original Bosch blade is good but not 80$ good.

I was doubtful that a blade costing less than half its competitors could be good. The consistently positive reviews convinced me to try it. This blade is a treat. I used it with a high school robotics team to cut aluminum plate and square section tube with 0.125in wall thickness. We made more than 100 cuts. I kept the blade lubricated (started with a liquid lubricant - messy- and switched to wax) and didn't force it, just let the blade do the work. The cuts were easy, clean, and smooth. I did use good practice to clamp each piece to the miter saw before cutting, not using hands to hold the workpiece. We didn't lose a single tooth and plan to use the same blade in the coming year.

I love Festool, I buy their sanding pads for my rotex 150, I think you can't beat their quality products. I have to admit, forking out $125 for a replacement blade from Festool seemed steep. Went for this blade instead and let me tell you, this blade cuts just as good as the festool one, can't tell the difference, go for it. P.S: I cut wood only, not sure, if that's the case for other materials. Really glad I found this on Amazon.

My husband wanted an 80 tooth blade but as I kept searching for similar items the 120 tooth showed up and was significantly cheaper. I know cheap doesn't mean better but it has worked out great. What used to take 20 minutes of cutting with an 80 tooth blade took 5 minutes with a 120 tooth blade.

I have found this dado blade to be excellent. The price was great, ease of use and setting up is far superior to the HF dado blade I returned after one of the shims jammed on the arbor of my Delta uni-saw and damaged the arbor threads on the 2nd use. That cost me $150.00 to for the purchase of a replacement arbor! Many customers complain that the storage box it comes with is not suitable. It is just a cardboard box. When mine arrived the box was broken on three sides. However the dado blades are very well packaged in foam and arrived with no damage. I simply made my own storage box from 1/2" plywood and utilized the foam packaging to safely store the dado blade.

Very nicely machined. It moves and holds its position very nicely. Easy to read dial; easy to read numbers. The fractional numbering on the outside of the dial, which makes the fractions easier to see. The decimal scale on the inside of dial is more natural to look at and the smaller size is not a problem to read. Other more expensive fractional calipers I have seen are much harder to read. Very nice for the price.

I came across this looking for a replacement laser for my 12” kobalt compound sliding miter saw. The laser has sucked on that saw since day 1 and finally took a poop. Bought this to just have some kind of guide to see where I’m cutting/ setting angles and what not. But wow i am super pleased. It is very accurate and marks right on the side of the blade. It is awesome and the best part is there’s no adjusting. The only bad thing, is the laser will only work on the left side of your blade. Or whatever side your blade Mount screw is on. I highly recommend the laser though! And even comes with a whole set of extra batteries. Straight up rip open the package and mount it, then begin cutting!

Bought this to fabricate display from 4mm acrylic sheet. Cut well without chipping. Edges needed only a little sanding and then time on a buffing wheel gave nicely polished edges. Blade is good value and gave very good results.

While i was worried that i would not be satisfied by these less expensive blades, i have been happily surprised. They are a great alternative to spending top dollar for Festool blades that are frankly a bit overpriced. I'd love to see the actual cost compared to mark-up on saw blades. Using a sharp blade saves time, improves quality and pleasure of work imensly. The option of Oshlun blades is a wonderful thing about capitalism, which usually is not so nice. While i might not use them on every job, 90% of the time they do a fine job and I see no difference (besides price) from the Festool blades. Recently I used a not new 48T Oshlun blade while ripping "Hardy Plank" I did a good 10 8 foot rips of the silica concrete board. I think the blade is toast, but even during the final rip it performed more than adaquately. I continue to be impressed and pleased with these blades. I'm lookin forward to see how they sharpen, just for kicks, I'ts probabaly cheaper to toss them, but my sharpening service does a great job, so it will be a worthwhile experiment.

I bought this blade as a replacement for my Evolution Tools Fury 3 saw. All I can saw is WOW! This blade cuts 10 times better than the blade that ships with the saw. It cuts faster, cleaner, and far smoother. It's better balanced than the original as well. I will never buy another blade from Evolution Power Tools as long as Olshun makes this blade. Buy one and you'll understand. It's easily worth 3x what it sells for.

I'm an industrial electrician that uses M12 for my everyday tools. I bought an M12 Fuel Circular Saw 2530-20 specifically because I wanted to try to cut metal with it. The Milwaukee blade is half the price of the saw, so I wanted to try something less expensive.

This thing cuts like butter! Cable Tray, Strut, DIN rail, 3/8 mild steel plate, you name it. I'm VERY happy. I've done quite a few cuts and it doesn't seem to be slowing down, but I picked up a standby blade for when I finally bite off more than I can chew.

Wear a FACE SHIELD with this thing, she throws shrapnel like no other. I was only wearing safety glasses and a piece of metal bounced off my cheek, hit the glasses and then hit my eyeball. Had to go to the optometrist and everything, I had a burn and needed to take eyedrops for a week, luckily my vision came back.

I'm a big Festool fan. Well, I should say that I really like the Festool products that I currently own. I've owned a few green tools that....well.....sucked. The track saw is one of my favorites. Yeah, it's a little underpowered when cutting bevels but I rarely use it to make these cuts. One thing, IMO, that Festool doesn't do well is make blades. I've owned a couple of the Kapex saws and the blades provided are pretty sad. The fact that they provide a 60T blade with a $1400 miter saw is ridiculous. Do they really think someone is using this saw for something other than finish trim??? Sure it has a negative hook but still.... Back to the Oshlun blade. It cuts great. Super clean cross cuts and plenty fast when ripping 3/4 ply. I highly recommend this blade and will be purchasing another. I purchased the 80T for my Kapex and it's a great blade as well.

This blade was chosen for the lower price, the arbor hole size, and the non ferrous cutting attribute. I was skeptical about quality but willing to chance it. It turns out to be a perfect fit for the Kapex, runs without wobble and cuts oak crown molding cleanly. It hasn't been used to cut aluminum, but should have no trouble since previous carbide blades I've used did it without dulling much.

Worked perfect for cutting a corian countertop to remove a dual bowl sink and install a stainless steel one. Worked well bht I could tell by the end of the cut it was tired. Great blade for the purpose and it worked well with the harbor freight Bauer brand 4.5 circular saw to do the job. For Corian it worked perfectly

I was looking for a bade to cut aluminum for a FIRST robotics team working out of my basement. My initial search through a well known industrial supplier showed blades like this starting at $250. That was pretty much a non-starter. I found this one on Amazon and read the reviews and decided to give it a try. It cuts cleanly, quietly, and quickly. We have been cutting parts for several weeks now and the blade shows no signs of dulling. It also works great on PVC pipe and wood (we used that for training purposes. I have done a lot of shop work over the years and I can say this is an excellent blade. I highly recommend this to anyone who is planning to cut aluminum on conventional shop equipment. I used this blade on a table saw.

I have two sets of calipers: this one and a digital electronic caliper by iGaging that reads in fractions, decimals, and metric. If I really need to dial in a measurement precisely, I use the iGaging. But 98% of the time the Oshlun is my go-to! It's the one I carry with me in my pocket, my tool bag, or even when I go to the store and need to measure a board or a bolt. It's so much easier to intuit the dimension of an object when I'm seeing a visual representation of where that dimension lies on the fractional "clock face." So many times when I use the other one - the digitial one - it will give me an answer of, say, 21/64ths and then I have to stop and spend two minutes doing math in my head and figuring out what that precise number means in practical terms. As a woodworker, I technically work to the nearest 32nd, but I THINK in terms of 16ths and 16ths "strong" or "weak". The Oshlun gives me that knowledge at a glance, without mental math and without hesitation. A machinist may need an instrument that can give them accuracy to the thousands of an inch, but for the work I do, the Oshlun Fractional Dial Caliper is the perfect tool for measuring when I need something more precise than my tape measure, alone. Highly recommended.

I can not see any difference between my Festool blade and that one. Smooth cut with nice glossy feel to it.

There are a few things out there that are better options than Festool Replacement ones, all of which come at a better value.

Examples include t
1) Splinter Guard tape from Makita for the tracks which are way cheaper and better.
2) Bosh 35mm hose for 30$ ish compared with the 36mm from Festool at ridiculous price.
3) MFT3 MDF top that you can do yourself from any 3/4 MDF sheet.

This is the best blade I have ever used on my miter saw (Dewalt). This includes the Forrest Woodworker II, various Freud blades, and the original Dewalt. The Forrest cuts very well, as it should for the price, but the edge doesn't last long. I had it sharpened by the factory (about $42), and it cut very well again, but not for long. I use my miter saw for normal woodworking, I don't cut any kind of metals with it. This blade cuts as well and has held it's edge longer than a blade that cost 4 times as much, and it is even cheaper than getting the expensive blade sharpened. I have Oshlun blades on my table saw and radial arm saw as well, they cannot be beaten, especially for the price. I also have their 8" dado set, puts the Freud set to shame for much less expense. I have now ordered extra Oshlun blades for my saws, as I am sure the price will go up when they get more popular.

Did an excellent job cutting my kitchen countertop to size. After about 40 linear feet, it became noticeably duller. Overall, very plesed I was able to accomplish the job with just my small circular saw. I think it would do equally well for other brand names like Corian.